Patio privacy screen and roof - Need some help

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Old 01-01-15, 04:28 PM
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Patio privacy screen and roof - Need some help

I'll put pictures below.

I'm going to use pre-fabbed piers on top of pavers, PT 4x4s, and doubled up lattice, for the privacy part.

I will install three 4x4s on the long side of the patio and one 4x4 on the short side of the patio, close to the house.

The corner 4x4 will be the second post on the short side of the patio. I will use this post placed on the corner to anchor the lattice privacy feature as well as the beam support for the roof rafters.

From reading around I see that building the rafters off the roof is not a favorite method, but I'm going to do it.

I won't have to worry about leaks because the ledger board will be mounted on the roof outside of the house, and the screws will be driven from above into the 2x6 rafters under the soffit.

I will use the clear lexan sheeting as the roof cover.

What is the best way to attache the ledger board to the roof? I was thinking I could fab up some brackets out of PT 2x4s, or use a metal bracket bent to give me a 90* mounting surface for my ledger board.

I don't want a continuous board nailed to the roof, because I want the rain to pass through and hit the gutters.

I'm also using a raised ledger board so I can get a bit of pitch on the roof. What would you suggest be the minimum pitch for the clear lexan type roof material?

Looking for advice on fine tuning the current plan. Thanks. Picture coming below.
 
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Old 01-01-15, 05:13 PM
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Here's a picture. Not the best, but you get the idea.Name:  drawing.jpg
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Old 01-01-15, 05:22 PM
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Here's a nice clean picture of what I'm looking to do with the roof. However I don't want to mount on the inside of the house, and I would like to use a 90* ledger board on brackets.
 
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Old 01-01-15, 06:42 PM
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Where are you located?

It is not a good idea to attach anything to the roof as you show. You mention that you know it is not good but still intend to do so. It's just asking for leaks with so many holes through your shingles and your gazebo thing will have to be removed to replace your house's roof.

Have you any provision to hold your structure down? Footers and foundations not only provide support for a structure but they also hold it down to keep it from being blown away in strong winds.
 
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Old 01-01-15, 07:23 PM
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Thanks for your reply.

I plan to only put six screw holes in the roof (2 per bracket attached to 3 rafters), and these screws will sink into the 2x6 rafters located outside of the house. See picture.

The roof is brand new. Worst case it needs replaced in 25 years. By then, I'm sure the back patio structure will need it's maintenance as well.... to include at the least new lexan roof panels.

The wall posts nearest to the house will be attached to the house in three locations, top, middle, and bottom. The lattice will not be continuous top to bottom so they will not be solid walls.

Between the attachments to the house, and the attachment to the 2x4 roof rafters (which will come down from the roof to the support beam, AS well as run opposite for the lexan mounting strips) I would think that would be plenty for any wind we get.

There's back yard awnings all over the neighborhood. I'm in Portland, OR. East .

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Old 01-02-15, 08:24 AM
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Guess your going to try and get by without a permit.
None of what your suggesting so far is going to work or would ever pass inspection.
Those post have to be sitting on piers set below the frost line with the post sitting on post bases.
What the snow loads in your area?
You picture is showing a really shallow pitched roof, which is almost always a bad idea.
Really bad idea the way whole way your suggesting to do that roof tie in. There's a reason everyone saying it's a bad idea.
There should be waterproofing and shingles extending out over the roofing so the water runs down the old roof out over the new roof.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 11:11 AM
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Alrighty.... first off... I find it very very unlikely what I am attempting to do is not going to work. Not desirable sure, I stated that first thing.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to best accomplish what I'm trying to do, not people telling me I can't.

It's a couple privacy blocks with five 2x4s holding some plastic roofing.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 11:44 AM
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You can do whatever you want to your own home and it may work for the short term. Your design does not meet code requirements and does not use good building practices so the best advice is likely "don't do it like that". Just because you want it a certain way does not make it right. A privacy enclosure can be built, just not the way you suggest.

A better approach might be to build your structure completely free standing and not attached to your home. Posts into the ground with proper footers. Your new roof could be above and overhang your houses roof to provide protection from rain without drilling holes through your home's current roof.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 12:20 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not looking for a different way. I'm looking for the best way to accomplish what I've described.

I guess it's so bad there are no suggestions. I can respect that.

I'll throw up some pictures when I'm done. And, if for some odd reason I suffer catastrophic failure due to the poor building practices I will also be the first to post that as well.

Cheers
 
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Old 01-02-15, 12:55 PM
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Many have done it the way you describe. Problems arise with the attachment to your existing roof. The holes through the roof and at the hole locations are a potential leak point. Making the situation worse is putting something over it that will collect debris and retain moisture. So, pay special attention to that area. Seal your fasteners where they go through the roof and where and brackets meet the roof. If you go belt & suspenders and tar or do additional sealing do it in a U shape from above. Leave the bottom open so if any water gets by it can drain away.

A secondary problem is where your shed roof meets the existing roof. Many try to seal it to their existing roof which having such a flat pitch causes debris to build up acting as a dam that can allow heavy rain to accumulate and back up under the houses shingles. Leaving a healthy gap between your plastic roof and your house roof would help by allowing water and debris to wash through without collecting.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 12:59 PM
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I'm not so crazy.....

Patio Cover Roof Bracket Installation

Another thing... how many satellite dishes are attached to roofs? Antennas? Etc. etc....
 
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Old 01-02-15, 01:05 PM
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Thanks Pilot Dane - exactly what I was looking for.

If you see the post where I link to a bracket/ledger board system I think I can improve on that and get brackets that will mount UNDER the shingle tab, eliminating any leak concerns.

RE: your second concern that has been one of mine too, since before I posted this. I will, without a doubt, be raising the ledger board above the roof surface so water can freely drain into the existing gutter system. Good point on debris. I was focused on water drainage but debris is a definite concern with all the trees we have here.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 06:18 PM
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I'm not so crazy.....

Patio Cover Roof Bracket Installation
I hope you were showing that as an example of what not to do! They were so many things wrong with that installation it looks like it's from Laurel and Hardy. There is no mention made of sealing the attachment points of the brackets on the roof so there are potential roof leaks there. The ledger is so close to the roof leaves and other items are going to hang up instead of flowing through the gap, etc.
 
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Old 01-04-15, 10:37 AM
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Probably the worst thing about leaks coming from screws penetrating roof sheathing and shingles in overhang areas is that the leaks will go on for many months or even years before being detected. By then the damage will be done, and major rafter-end replacement will be required. Especially in Portland's soggy climate.

As others have suggested, free-standing is the way to go--no roof penetrations to ever worry about.
 
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