Replacing deck - tips and ideas wanted


Old 02-13-15, 01:44 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Replacing deck - tips and ideas wanted

We are going to be replacing our deck. The wood is starting to warp and rot so it has to go. The joists and supports are all still good, so we just need to replace the fascia, railing, and decking. We want to do a synthetic material for reduction of maintenance, but don't know where to start. Any experienced deckers have recommendations for replacement material? If it matters, we live in Salt Lake City and the deck is ~20 x 20. It faces south and is in direct sun always. We want something that looks good and is not incredibly difficult to install. Cost in an issue, but we are able and willing to pay more for quality. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
Sponsored Links
Old 02-13-15, 01:51 PM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,353
Received 53 Votes on 50 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

There are a lot of composites on the market and which ones are available can vary by region. Generally, the lighter the color the less they will fade and the easier they will be on bare feet in the hot sun.
Old 02-13-15, 04:46 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
There is no law that says wood decking has to be stained or painted but many home owners don't want the deck to do what's called "gray out". That's what will happen, if a wood deck, isn't stained or painted. I imagine that's what you mean by "reduction in maintenance". Personally, I wouldn't care if it "grayed out" but maybe you do, I've built a lot of decks in NY. Trex is the popular composite here. I haven't compared the cost of Trex to cedar or pressure treated wood. It will be hotter, on bare feet, as you already mentioned. Compare composite with cedar. That's my recommendation.
Old 02-13-15, 05:02 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
Composites also expand and contract a lot in addition to being hot to the touch. If you are installing yourself, you need to take this expansion into account when you install. The size of the gap left between boards and the space between ends needs to follow manufacturers recommendations. They also will fade over time from a color stand point. They are not completely maintenance free as they will collect dirt and will need power washing from time to time.

You will also have a choice on fastening systems. I am not crazy about the hidden systems and while less aesthetically pleasing, face screwing with color matching deck screws is a stronger overall way to go. Pre -drilling actually make it easier and faster.

What may be the most cost effective is to build your railing system out of pressure treated lumber and just resurface with composite and the fascia. The staining of vertical surfaces such as the railings usually would have a longer life than that of staining decking (if you were comparing).
Old 02-13-15, 06:16 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 23,371
Received 228 Votes on 210 Posts
Depending on the decking you choose, some composites need spacing 12" on center to be as solid as a wood deck is on 16". So you may want to research that a bit or you may be be doing some reframing to make it work.
Old 02-13-15, 06:45 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
Thanks, XSleeper, It totally slipped my mind because the last deck I did this summer was 12" on center. They usually list it as recommended but OK at 16" oc. Refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Hopefully, it doesn't mean re-framing your deck.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Ask a Question
Question Title: