Replacing deck - tips and ideas wanted
#1
02-13-15, 01:44 PM
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacing deck - tips and ideas wanted
We are going to be replacing our deck. The wood is starting to warp and rot so it has to go. The joists and supports are all still good, so we just need to replace the fascia, railing, and decking. We want to do a synthetic material for reduction of maintenance, but don't know where to start. Any experienced deckers have recommendations for replacement material? If it matters, we live in Salt Lake City and the deck is ~20 x 20. It faces south and is in direct sun always. We want something that looks good and is not incredibly difficult to install. Cost in an issue, but we are able and willing to pay more for quality. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
#2
02-13-15, 01:51 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
There are a lot of composites on the market and which ones are available can vary by region. Generally, the lighter the color the less they will fade and the easier they will be on bare feet in the hot sun.
There are a lot of composites on the market and which ones are available can vary by region. Generally, the lighter the color the less they will fade and the easier they will be on bare feet in the hot sun.
#3
02-13-15, 04:46 PM
There is no law that says wood decking has to be stained or painted but many home owners don't want the deck to do what's called "gray out". That's what will happen, if a wood deck, isn't stained or painted. I imagine that's what you mean by "reduction in maintenance". Personally, I wouldn't care if it "grayed out" but maybe you do, I've built a lot of decks in NY. Trex is the popular composite here. I haven't compared the cost of Trex to cedar or pressure treated wood. It will be hotter, on bare feet, as you already mentioned. Compare composite with cedar. That's my recommendation.
#4
02-13-15, 05:02 PM
Composites also expand and contract a lot in addition to being hot to the touch. If you are installing yourself, you need to take this expansion into account when you install. The size of the gap left between boards and the space between ends needs to follow manufacturers recommendations. They also will fade over time from a color stand point. They are not completely maintenance free as they will collect dirt and will need power washing from time to time.
You will also have a choice on fastening systems. I am not crazy about the hidden systems and while less aesthetically pleasing, face screwing with color matching deck screws is a stronger overall way to go. Pre -drilling actually make it easier and faster.
What may be the most cost effective is to build your railing system out of pressure treated lumber and just resurface with composite and the fascia. The staining of vertical surfaces such as the railings usually would have a longer life than that of staining decking (if you were comparing).
You will also have a choice on fastening systems. I am not crazy about the hidden systems and while less aesthetically pleasing, face screwing with color matching deck screws is a stronger overall way to go. Pre -drilling actually make it easier and faster.
What may be the most cost effective is to build your railing system out of pressure treated lumber and just resurface with composite and the fascia. The staining of vertical surfaces such as the railings usually would have a longer life than that of staining decking (if you were comparing).
#5
02-13-15, 06:16 PM
Group Moderator
Depending on the decking you choose, some composites need spacing 12" on center to be as solid as a wood deck is on 16". So you may want to research that a bit or you may be be doing some reframing to make it work.
#6
02-13-15, 06:45 PM
Thanks, XSleeper, It totally slipped my mind because the last deck I did this summer was 12" on center. They usually list it as recommended but OK at 16" oc. Refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Hopefully, it doesn't mean re-framing your deck.
