Strong tie connector questions

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Old 04-24-15, 08:19 PM
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Strong tie connector questions

Couple quick questions doing an attached 16x20 SYP PT deck

1. I'm looking to use the LUS210z joist hangers. Can I use 1.5" 10d nails for the whole hanger. It wasn't clear on their site exactly what size goes on the beam. joists are 12" oc. the LUC hangers specify 1.5" all the way around

2. corners: Should I use hangers on the outside joists or angle brackets

3. Ataching the ledger to the house. Can I use these:

https://www.fastenmaster.com/details...-fastener.html

or through bolt?

Jeff
 
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Old 04-24-15, 09:00 PM
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Following joist hanger manufacturer's instructions is best. If the website isn't helpful, try calling their technical help number to answer your specific questions.

Ledger-Lok bolts work great, but I'd suggest installing a heavy, flat fender washer under each head. This will avoid the bolts wanting to embed themselves in your ledger board--the threads are very aggressive, and like to suck the bolt heads deeply into soft wood members.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 05:14 AM
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1. 1.5" #10 on the flat, but at least 2.5", or longer on the angle part of the joist hanger. You want to penetrate not only the joist, but the band/ledger behind it.
2. Use angle brackets for the corners.
3. Carriage bolts are approved for ledger attachment to a house. You will need to use 1/2" bolts, HDG, with 1/2" washer on the nut end and a 3/4" washer on the bolt head end. 1/2" Lag bolts with washers are also approved. I like Ledger Loks, but they aren't approved in our location, yet.

http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf Page 10
 
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Old 04-25-15, 05:20 AM
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You should talk to your inspections dept to see if they will approve the use of other fasteners. Mine will not. They may even say they think the modern screws are better but they'll roll right into "but they are not approved". They want to see normal 10d nails when going into a beam thick enough to accept the longer nails and want to see the short joist hanger nails with a 10 molded on the head into the joist.

As for the ledger I would again ask your inspectors. Mine want 1/2" hot dip galvanized through bolts and in some cases lag screws. The screws you linked might be better but until they are written into the building code your inspectors might not approve their use.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 05:24 AM
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I agree with Dane on checking with your inspector. I installed trusses on a rather large garage a few months back and the truss company sent me long red timber lock type screws and a metal template. It was to take the place of hurricane straps. Well, I had to go to my inspector to ask, since I had not used them before. He agreed to their use as long as I used the template to set them at the right angle. So easy as opposed to a kazillion nails in hurricane straps.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 05:45 AM
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Thanks guys!

I may use the LUC concealed connectors then because they only require 1.5" nails. as their nails do not go through both only the joist or header.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 07:44 AM
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I will just through bolt it that way there will be no inspection issues.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 08:36 AM
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If you have the access, using the thru bolts is the preferred method, anyway.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 08:42 AM
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Chandler is correct as far as 10d angle nails. Here is a link to PDF, Simpson Installers Pocket Guide. Review the beginning "fastener guide" and then review the individual tie requirements. Your joist hanger is page 74.

www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/S-C-INSTALL14.pdf
 
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Old 04-25-15, 09:41 AM
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I know this might spark a huge debate on palm nailers vs positive placement nailers, but would this combo work. Chandler suggested 2.5" on the double sheer nails

BOSTITCH F21PL Round Head 1-1/2-Inch to 3-1/2-Inch Framing Nailer with Positive Placement Tip and Magnesium Housing - Power Nailers - Amazon.com

with these nails

http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-N16HDG...+nails+simpson
 
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Old 04-25-15, 10:14 AM
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I use the Bostitch Strapshot (1 1/2 - 2 1/2" HDG)for positive placement of joist hanger nails, although Simpson calls for 3" with their hangers. I also supplement the joist attachment and use 3 each 3" #9 deck screws into the band through the end of the joist to add strength. A second band can be added over that. Using a palm nailer is a fine alternative for using the longer nails. With the nailer you suggest, IF you can find the fasteners in HDG to fit it, then you would be one up. Things change as far as technology and theories over time. I also use the Strap shot for placement of case hardened nails in concrete for metal drop ceiling wall angles or other thin materials.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 11:45 AM
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I'm guessing you have the MCN250 which is nice because it's really small and I'm doing 12" centers however it's $100 more. They both use the same connectors though. I'm thinking the F33PT might be too big to get into the little space.

Jeff
 
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Old 04-25-15, 12:09 PM
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Yeah, you get into framing size, it will not be able to get into confined space. Yes, it is the MCN250, and not cheap You may be relegated to the palm nailer, in order to get the angle nails in. It eats up air, but is quicker than a hammer.

I have the strapshot for one reason....labor savings. 14 nails per hanger with a hammer takes probably 2 or 3 minutes. With the Strapshot takes about 14 seconds. Of course the 1 1/2" are set first, then go back with the longer ones.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 03:42 PM
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Not to spark a debate... (lol) but I would never buy a strap shot to build one deck. Several decks? Sure. But for a single deck, palm nailers are quite affordable and fairly fast, assuming you are. (grin)
 
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Old 04-25-15, 05:54 PM
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Ooh, you got that right, Brant odd, too, the Strapshot case has an indentation for a palm nailer.
 
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Old 04-25-15, 07:23 PM
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I was thinking I might be able to resell it? I have a Harbor Freight palm nailer and the magnet fell out so it makes it hard to use. I want to work as quickly as possible I'm taking some time off to bang it out. Its just that the nail gun is so much easier to work with. Sometimes the piece can walk a a little with the palm nailer.

Jeff
 
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Old 04-25-15, 07:43 PM
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Yeah if you like selling things on eBay, a lot of ppl do that rather than rent. If you can get $250 out of a $300 gun, its like paying $50 rent for as long as you happen to need it.
 
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Old 04-26-15, 07:16 PM
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looks like they go for around 160-170 on ebay. so It'll cost around $150, not too bad. Maybe if I can keep it scratch free I can get $200 :0
 
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Old 04-26-15, 07:40 PM
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Maybe buy one off ebay and resell it for exactly the same amount. Net cost = $0
 
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Old 04-26-15, 07:41 PM
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Now, with problem #1 solved, good luck finding the nails reasonably priced.
 
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Old 04-26-15, 08:38 PM
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Already pulled the trigger xsleeper. Though I did think of that as well after the fact.
 
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Old 04-27-15, 03:17 AM
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If you can get the MC250 for $150, that was a solid hit
 
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Old 04-28-15, 11:27 AM
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One last question for Larry, you mentioned the use of a washer with a carriage bolt? Wouldn't I use a washer if I were using a hex head bolt? How or why would use a washer with a carriage bolt. there would be no way to hold the carriage end.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 03:13 PM
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You must use a washer (one size larger than the bolt so it will settle around the square) to keep the round, somewhat small carriage bolt head from sinking to deeply into the wood. 1/2" carriage bolt = 3/4" washer. It will dig in enough to allow you to tighten them up.
 
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Old 05-05-15, 10:20 AM
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The nailer was money well spent. Saved me so much time and effort. One last question about the nailer.

Could I do the decking boards with it? I know you're supposed to screw them so they don't pop but I might be replacing the decking surface in 5-10 years and it would be so much easier to pull the boards if they were nailed in rather than screwed. How much of a pain will it be a keeping up with nail pops?

Jeff
 
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Old 05-05-15, 01:24 PM
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No, you need to use ring shank nails from a regular framing nailer. Don't think down the road for removal. Think now for holding in place. There will likely be few nail pops and it will be a bear to pull the ring shank nails up. Let someone else worry about that.
 
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Old 05-07-15, 07:56 PM
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my regular framing nailer is a clipped head nailer I don't think that's gonna work.
 
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