Footer placement advice needed (floating deck)

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Old 05-29-15, 08:27 AM
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Footer placement advice needed (floating deck)

Hello all!

I am rebuilding our deck and am having a hard time figuring out where I need to place my footers (and how many I need). I have some weird angles due to a bay window and angled egress door. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks in advance!

Hopefully the measurements show up okay on the image.

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Old 05-29-15, 06:35 PM
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Why not just use the footings that are already in place?
 
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Old 05-29-15, 06:53 PM
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The footings that are there, are 4x4's buried about 24inches down into the soil surrounded by concrete. There are about 20 of them that the previous owners put in. Some of them are heaving out of the ground (i live near columbus, oh). I'd like to bring it up to code so I can submit plans to the county.

From what I've researched so far, it looks like 6x6 posts are recommended because of the 2 - 2x8's (or whatever size depending on span) that need to be notched into the posts.

I just need some pointers on where to place the new footings based on those weird angles on the house.
 
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Old 05-29-15, 07:38 PM
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You need to tell us what you'll be using for beams (size and species), and how many of them.
 
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Old 05-29-15, 07:48 PM
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I was planning on using the pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine in either 2x8 or 2x10. If I can get away with fewer footers (less digging) using 2x10's I'd rather do that.

I gave it a shot in this drawing but was thinking maybe it was overkill, or even the wrong way to go about this?

Thanks


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Old 05-29-15, 07:54 PM
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While waiting on the other information, generally footings are placed where angles exist and usually every 8' or so on straight runs. As Bridge said, it will depend on the size and species of lumber you are using, as well as the layering (single, double, etc.). You should determine the depth needed in your area for the footings. 12" diameter footings will do the job in most instances. You are correct in the assumption that any notching can't be done with 4x4's. Proper Simpson Strongtie connectors should be used to tie all your posts and beams together.

For good reading: http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-12.pdf

Your updated drawing negated the angle requirement I mentioned. Cantilevers should be limited to 2', so check with the planners on that as well.
 
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Old 05-29-15, 08:09 PM
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Great info. I'll read up on the pdf you posted and take into account what you said about the footings at the angles. Wish my deck was a simple square or rectangle!
 
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Old 05-29-15, 08:26 PM
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I can't tell from the sketches where the house is.

But the last sketch shows beams (on the right) having what appears to be excessive cantilever. Unless you plan on supporting their ends with beefy brackets attached to a ledger on the house. Which will be frowned upon by the local AHJ.
 
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Old 05-29-15, 08:35 PM
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Sorry, the house is at the 'top' and to the left..the angles are where the door and bay window are.

I agree, the cantilevers in my drawing are really excessive. I'm just looking for a basic starting point to where my footers need to go (especially around the angles) and then I think I can go from there. I'll try to do a more detailed/accurate sketch from the info that chandler posted.

Thanks guys
 
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Old 05-30-15, 05:03 AM
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I highlighted areas of possible concern. No attachment to the framing of the bay window. You must span it with joisting or post/beam. Not sure if the house extends out past the upper right.

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Old 05-31-15, 04:36 PM
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okay I think I have my 'final rough draft' complete. I'm pretty sure this covers all of my bases by using 2x10x16 beams and joists. I realize the lines aren't straight and isn't to scale but I made sure I don't have more than a 2ft cantilever on anything and my spans are within guidelines to the lumber specs (southern yellow pine).

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