Finally Started to work on the deck.

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  #41  
Old 07-18-15, 04:07 PM
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New PT wood is usually a little wider than it is once it's dried out from the PT process. Depending on how wet/dry the PT wood is when installed along with the environment it's exposed to, it's normal for it to take 6 weeks to 6 months before it's ready for stain. You can buy dried PT wood but it costs more and is harder to find.

How difficult/easy it is to replace the decking depends on how hard it is to remove the old decking. I've had some that almost jumped off the framing and others that took a lot of convincing.

There is a lot to be said for diy. You don't have to deal with any contractors that are just in it for the money, you have complete control of the quality of the job and bragging rites when you get done
 
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  #42  
Old 07-18-15, 04:31 PM
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I am painting. So how long do I need to wait before prime and paint the new pt wood?

it looks like they used nails on the deck. Not screw. And I was told that to use deck screw. not nails. Is that right?

I am tired of contracts. Unless I hire someone who will charge me like 5k. It is impossible to find someone good. I know someone who got like 8 buildings and he have hard time finding people to do the job properly. SMH .
 
  #43  
Old 07-19-15, 03:42 AM
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It's hard to say definitively how long you have to wait before you can paint new PT wood. If the wood isn't dry prior to applying paint, the paint will peel in short order. The moisture content of the wood when it is installed plays a big part but so do the conditions it's exposed to, sun and wind will dry out the wood quicker than shady conditions will. It generally falls somewhere between 6 weeks and 6 months.

Screws hold better than nails although they are more costly. What every type fastener you use - make sure it's rated for contact with PT!
 
  #44  
Old 07-19-15, 10:09 AM
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If I am buying the PT wood from Homedeopt. Arnt they comes dry? DO they like make it yesterday and bring it to the store next day? lol

Also, if prime goes top of my old paint is a problem? as some of the places i cant remove 100%.
 
  #45  
Old 07-19-15, 03:31 PM
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If I am buying the PT wood from Homedeopt. Arnt they comes dry? DO they like make it yesterday and bring it to the store next day? lol
No matter where you buy it from it's not going to be dry when you buy it, especially big-box stores. They dry it before pressure treating so the treatment soaks in but really don't much afterwards. You weren't that far off when you say they make it one day and bring it to the store the next, in some cases that's almost true!
 
  #46  
Old 07-19-15, 04:23 PM
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You are right. I bought some of the wood ttoday. And they are wet. lol
I am keeping them in the hot son. Hopefully it doesnt take too long.

I am planning on scraping now. What kind of scraper should I use?

And for sanding, whats the grits do I need to use in order?

I am also buying this drill for everyday use. Is this a good one? someone told me get that brand. Its a hammer drill. But I assume. I can do everything else with it as well?

Makita XPH012 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2-Inch Hammer Driver-Drill Kit with One Battery - - Amazon.com

Also, I want to get a saw. I was told to get Japanese saw. Did some research on them. They looks like indeed something Japanese would make. Impressive simple tool.
 
  #47  
Old 07-20-15, 03:44 AM
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I'd be leery of letting the PT lumber set in the sun to dry as it may warp during the process. Generally it's best to install the wet lumber and let it dry where the nails/screws can hold it in place. As mentioned earlier it generally takes 6 weeks to 6 months for PT wood to air dry. I have seen dried PT wood at HD before but it's a good bit more expensive than the wet PT. Dried PT is available but isn't always readily available.

Pull scrapers generally work the best but sometimes a putty knife is needed also. What sandpaper to use depends on the job at hand. I rarely sand decks other than the handrail. The coarser the grit the more aggressive the sanding will be. There is no need for sanding any finer than 100-120 grit on a deck.

While primer isn't always needed over top of the existing paint - it doesn't hurt anything to apply primer over paint.
 
  #48  
Old 07-20-15, 07:49 AM
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Yes, I just want to sand my railing and some of the rough areas in the deck. So do I just use 100 Grit and thats it? I seen some videos, people use one kind of grit first and then use a different kind next.

My porch paint is perfectly fine since its get little sun and rain on it. But have some stain on it. How should I clean it before painting it?

I am going to paint section by section. BW only sell by the gallon. Will the color look different if I paint using different gallons?

let me about those tools I mention earlier if you have any knowledge on them.
 
  #49  
Old 07-20-15, 09:35 AM
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100 grit should be fine as long as you are sanding with the direction of the grain. Exterior pine, cedar, etc, is different than an interior hardwood that you'll be applying a fine finish to but even then if you use too fine of a sandpaper it will close up the pores in the wood making it harder for the wood to get a good bond with the coating.

A bleach/water solution is fine for cleaning mildew and everyday grime. TSP is better at cleaning ground in grime along with taking a slight amount of the sheen off of glossy paints. TSP and bleach can be mixed together as/when needed.

It's always best to buy and intermix all the paint at one time. Today's computer controlled color machines are better calibrated than the old manual ones so a gallon bought today may match a gallon bought last month but can't be guaranteed. The machines are recalibrated regularly which helps to keep the tint constant although it's also possible for there to be minute differences between batches of paint from the factory.
 
  #50  
Old 07-20-15, 09:46 AM
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Some of the places where my ex contractor scraped paint. you can clearly see the marks and woods sticking out. So using 100 grit would clean them smoother?

Its going to rain, whats the best way to cover my deck and stairs to contain the dryness as much as possible.
 
  #51  
Old 07-20-15, 10:48 AM
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It may take rougher than 100 grit to cut down the paint and smooth out the transistion between bare wood and paint. 100-120 grit would be used to remove the scratches from the rougher grit paper.

Its going to rain, whats the best way to cover my deck and stairs to contain the dryness as much as possible.
How much work do you want to do?? Build a roof Covering with plastic would work but if there are any leaks [seams and such] those areas might get wetter than if left exposed. Depending on how close the plastic is to the wood it might also cause condensation issues.
 
  #52  
Old 07-20-15, 08:19 PM
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Ouch I just got the 80 and 100 grit. I hope home depot take return after opening it.
SO 120grit is rougher? I got a lot of splinters spiked out.

Im going to use the crispstrip tomorrow. Scraper making the wood worst. Any other material I should use to remove the paint after putting the paint remover?
 
  #53  
Old 07-21-15, 03:34 AM
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Your sandpaper should be ok. The lower the number the rougher the sandpaper. If I'm not mistaken the number stands for how much grit there is per square inch??? So your 80 grit is rougher than the 100, 120 is finer yet. Some think that they need to use 220 grit to get it extra smooth but it makes it so smooth that the stain [or primer] will barely be absorbed by the wood.

Your 80 grit may or may not be effective on the splinters. Sometimes splinters are best addressed by cutting and breaking them off. Just peeling them off can remove more than needed, making a cut with a knife will limit the amount of wood that is removed. Often minor splinters will be held down by a fresh coat of paint.
 
  #54  
Old 07-21-15, 07:31 AM
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ok that makes sense. I will just leave the splinters that wont be touched by people steps or hand.

Im going to use the crispstrip tomorrow. Scraper making the wood worst. Any other material I should use to remove the paint after putting the paint remover?
 
  #55  
Old 07-21-15, 07:34 AM
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The more caustic the stripper is , generally the more effective it is. Once you brush on the stripper you let it set until it starts to bubble up the old paint - then you use a wide putty knife to remove the softened paint, repeat as needed. Some strippers need a neutralizer applied when you are done so check the label. Once all that is done you just need to do a little sanding.
 
  #56  
Old 07-21-15, 07:58 AM
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After scraping. Does water helps? its going to rain later today
 
  #57  
Old 07-21-15, 09:36 AM
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Sometimes water will help the old paint to peel more or easier.
 
  #58  
Old 07-21-15, 10:04 PM
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so I tried it. The paint pealed easily some places and some places it dried to quick and got stuck. Difficult to do this in 90F weather.

I am just going to sand some of the paint to the cleaner paint underneath and paint over that on the places I could not remove.
Would that still work good? ANd should I prime over it or no need to?

Also,the deck was power washed a month ago. And I did the sanding today. do I need to use TSP and bleach to clean the deck again or I can start getting ready to prime and paint?

I used a blower to blow all the dust. So should I wash again using tsp and bleach? and I also scraped alot of the paint. so I got bare wood and painted wood. what could be a good mixer so I can use on both and scrub clean?
 
  #59  
Old 07-22-15, 03:03 AM
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The same cleaners can be used on painted, stained and bare wood. It's hard to tell from here if the deck needs to be cleaned again but usually if it was cleaned a month ago it should be good to go. I'm not sure if using a stripper changes that any. IF it needs to be cleaned again, TSP alone is probably sufficient. TSP needs to be rinsed well as it's residue can present adhesion issues.

Bare wood always needs primer prior to painting. Painted wood generally only needs primer if there are adhesion concerns [glossy surface, chalk that didn't wash off] or stains than need to be sealed. Sometimes it's easier to just prime it all.
 
  #60  
Old 07-22-15, 06:04 AM
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I only used stripper in two piece and gave up. Since the woods are not plain, its too difficult.

So if little dust and other stuff are on the deck. That should not be a issue?
 
  #61  
Old 07-22-15, 06:07 AM
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The dust needs to be removed but should easily sweep or blow off.
 
  #62  
Old 07-22-15, 11:48 AM
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How about the crap between cracks? they are hell to remove lol.
Also, one of the board I replaced. It fitted in very tightly. Is that going to be a problem in future? I heard pt boards shrinks
 
  #63  
Old 07-22-15, 11:51 AM
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What is between the cracks, paint? or crud? if the latter - it needs to be removed as paint/stain will not adhere there long term.

The width of wet PT will shrink.
 
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Old 07-22-15, 12:39 PM
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Ok cool And its both. Some of the place crap just got stuck in the past decade and it blocked in between the boards. Alot of the paint I am pealing just coming off like skin. SMH there is no end to this.
 
  #65  
Old 07-23-15, 09:01 AM
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I need to fill some of the holes and gap on the deck boards. what kind of filler or putty should I use?
 
  #66  
Old 07-23-15, 09:11 AM
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Usually it's best to leave cracks/holes be as fillers tend to fail. If you must fill the cracks in the wood - use caulking, for holes you'd use whatever the appropriate filler would be regarding the size of the hole. Oil primer over the filler will give it a better chance of lasting.
 
  #67  
Old 07-25-15, 07:56 PM
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So I am like 75% done. Need to do second coat tomorrow. But its going to rain around 5pm. How long does paint take to dry before raining can happen?
 
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Old 07-26-15, 03:54 AM
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What does it say on the label? Different paints have different drying times. How hard it rains can also be a factor. While a light rain might not damage fresh paint, a hard rain can beat it's way thru the dry to the touch top portion of the paint and mess up the still uncured paint below. The 2nd coat can take a little longer to dry than the first.

When the drying time versus weather is iffy, you have two choices - either wait for better weather or go ahead paint and be prepared to deal with the consequences if the rain comes too soon. I've done it both ways.
 
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Old 07-26-15, 07:36 AM
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I am using BM Floor and patio outdoor paint. Its latex.
The can says about 4 hours and also depends on humidity.
And its about 80% humidly for the past couple of days.
Its a little sticky but I can still walk on it and stay in one place standing with no issue. THe paint is not coming out or anything like that.

I did a full one coat so far.

So should I wait until the rain and then paint? how long should I wait after the rain for second coat? and its about 80-85F. I finished painting last night. so it got about 12 hours drying time.
 
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Old 07-26-15, 10:28 AM
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You can apply paint anytime after the rain has passed as long as the substrate is dry. Since it already has one coat of paint - it will dry quicker, moisture won't be absorbed by raw wood.
 
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Old 07-26-15, 12:57 PM
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Being a little tacky. Would rain cause any kind of issue?
 
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Old 07-27-15, 04:03 AM
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Rain will slow down the drying time and can affect the look of the finish but as long as it doesn't wash it away it shouldn't harm it's durability. If it looks fine once dry - you are good to go, if it hurts the looks a little - sand and apply another coat [can be thinned if needed]
 
  #73  
Old 07-28-15, 01:08 PM
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Yap, indeed slow.

Also, wanted to know if you can help me with my deck door.

It got a wheel at the bottom and its messing up the paint. How can I lift it up so the wheel doent touch the wheel or should I remove the wheel?Name:  door1.jpg
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  #74  
Old 07-28-15, 02:10 PM
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I'd remove the wheel. Anything that drags/rolls across the floor will wear thru the stain/paint sooner or later. Wheels are generally installed on wide gates that have a hard time supporting theirself all the way across. If a short gate like that can't support itself - it needs to be worked on! If the gate frame sags you might install L brackets at the corners to make it more rigid.
 
  #75  
Old 07-28-15, 02:56 PM
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How do I use a star screw to go down there and remove them?

Also, I got a big ass hollow in my wood. Its pretty deep as well. WHat should I do? I think it might be a bird.
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  #76  
Old 07-28-15, 04:23 PM
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Is the star screw holding on the caster? you may need to remove the gate in order to access and remove the caster.

It would be best to replace that piece of wood although you could fill it and hope for the best.
 
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Old 07-28-15, 05:56 PM
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ALot of those bird makes all around my house. WHats the solution?
ANd that wood is the corner wood between two railing so Thats too hard. sadly.
 
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Old 07-28-15, 06:31 PM
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Name:  deck1.jpg
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I want to put my portable gas stove at the corner. WHat material should I use to cover the deck railing and put in the bottom.
 
  #79  
Old 07-29-15, 03:54 AM
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I wouldn't think you'd need to do anything for the gas stove as it's structure should keep the heat off of the wood. Laying anything on the deck or railing would be prone to trap moisture which would both shorten the life of the coating and the wood.

that wood is the corner wood between two railing so
Not sure I understand maybe another pic from further back would explain it better.
 
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Old 07-29-15, 07:40 AM
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Pic for what, now sure which question you trying to answer..


And I want to put some kind of cover cuz its a open stove so it made the floor and surrounding black on my deck before.
 
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