Picture framing deck

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Old 07-16-15, 07:02 AM
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Picture framing deck

Am using trex 6 inch boards. Deck is 14 feet by 14 feet. I added blocking around posts so I can picture frame. I am trying to decide if I should use a full board to picture frame first and then fill in space, or do picture frame last. I don't think deck is large enough for two rows of picture frame so only doing one. I am installing fascia on rim joist and header. How far above fascia should I extend the picture frame board. I hope I explained this ok.

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Old 07-16-15, 06:36 PM
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You will need 2 nailing surfaces for the sides where the picture frame meets the deck boards perpendicular. You can not screw two boards into the same 2x framing as it will split out the composite. If the skirting is 1/2" thick you want to have at least 3/4" overhang over the skirting so float the picture frame at least 1 1/4" out. If you have done your math correctly, you can install the picture frame first and then do the inlay. Keep in mind that composite expands and contracts a lot so the spacing between boards is determined by the ambient temperature when you install it. You don't want to just jam them tight to each other.
 
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Old 07-16-15, 06:42 PM
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Back up, where's the water proofing on the wall before the ledger went on?
Where's the flashing?
Waters just going to run under those bottom plates and take out the plate, subflooring and likely more built like that.
 
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Old 07-17-15, 05:56 AM
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I am installing a Trex rain escape system first which will run up under flashing.

I was going to get a roll of galvinized flashing and make a 90 degree bend, and attach that to wall plywood with building wrap over lapping that. Then put the rubber "rain escape" under the flashing up to ledger, and tape the flashing edge to the rubber with butyl tape?? Picture below is not mine, but from a you tube video showing the vinyl being place dunder flashing and then taping seems and the flashing to vinyl itsel. ie any water coming down wall would run down gutters.

I galvinized flashing the best way to make this 14 foot ledger flashing? I was going to bend it myself with a 2by4??

I assume that when instaling trex decking on top of the metal flashing that you would just screw through the flashing to gte boards tight. Boards are 5 1/2 inches wide and I''ll leave a quarter inch from house, and stop the vinyl siding perhaps a 1/2 inch above decking?

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Old 07-18-15, 07:35 AM
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I am using 5.5 inch trex boards for the picture frame. Picture frame is complicated for me as all boards need to be cut around posts including where 45 miter cuts are. Deck is basic - ledger against house, out from house 12 feet and 15 feet across. Measurement from wall of house above ledger to outside edge of header is 12 feet. Fascia is 3/4 inch and with a 1 inch overhang, I'm looking at 145 3/4 width of side, however given the 1/8 gap, do I simply subtract 1/8 inch from each end and cut my 45 from long end at 145 1/2? I was planning to cut the picture frame board against house first at at 45 true measurement at long end, then screw that board down. Then, do the side picture frames, then use hidden fasteners on inside boards working from ledger.

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Old 07-18-15, 07:52 AM
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Second question. This is my first picture frame and first composite deck, plus I am installing over a trex rain escape system.

I am using solid trex 5.5 for picture frame and edged boards inside.

Should I do the frame first and screw down (my previous question had to do with picture frame measurements), then lay the field away from the house with hidden fasteners, and rip the last board of field if needed (so picture frame boards full size)??

My next question is how to get the boards perfect length with 1/8 gap on either end. Typically I would cut long, install perfect gap next to one picture frame edge, and cut the other end after install. However I can't do that for two reasons; (1) vinyl waterproofing on joists that I can't cut, and (2) the field boards need to be cut around a few posts so it is not a straight cut.

Overall, I'm thinking do picture frame first. Measure field length, cut all boards to that length (not sure if best way as even a small difference may be noticeable), then install. Is there a better way? The joint between single picture frame and field boards is on post line. Should I rip last field board to fit, or rip frame.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 04:25 PM
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The key here is the hidden fastener system. You have no wiggle room as far as adjusting the width to accommodate the actual size of the deck. If the hidden system leaves a perfect 1/8" then dry lay every board to see how it comes out in real life. Use the fastener system but don't screw it down to space your boards out to see how the math works. I would definitely, not cut the furthest board out (it is often a crooked wedge that would look terrible). I would reserve that odd rip cut for up against the house. But again, you can always add material to the rim joists and shim it out so that the skirt and the picture frame work perfectly to whole boards.
 
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Old 07-18-15, 07:37 PM
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I am using a picture frame using 5 1/2 inch boards that require a 1/8 gap at the picture frame angles. Distance from ledger to 1 inch past fascia skirt is 145 1/4 and consistent along whole deck. Should I install picture frame first, being careful that edges are parallel, and then cut all the inner boards the same length and rip the first and last inner board if overage.

When I cut my picture frame edges should I cut the long end exactly 145 1/4 and 45 each end, or do I need to reduce the length by 1/8 to account for the required gap at picture frame angles.
 
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Old 07-19-15, 07:32 AM
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I would not cut either side pieces of the picture frame. Leave them way long and temp tack them in place with brads to hold them while you set all the field pieces. When you get to the end, make adjustments to your rim joists to accommodate your last piece plus your picture frame. Rip shims that you put up on the rim joists to adjust for the final cut. Add an additional rim joists if needed.

Yes, the boards are 5 1/2" wide plus 1/8" gap, but in reality, you can not plan on a perfect pattern to the lay and simply go 5 5/8" x 27 rows and expect it to work out. Their will be variances, even based on how hot it is when installed. Without the hidden system, you would dry lay all your boards and then adjust the gap. All you can do is install and adjust the end to see where it comes out. Again, I would use the hidden fastener as a temp spacer, dry lay all the boards, see where it comes out at the last row. Make adjustments and then go back and install all the boards. Cut the picture frame last to fit what the boards give you.
 
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