Installing Deck Ledger


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Old 07-30-15, 06:30 AM
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Installing Deck Ledger

I am building roughly a 20' wide x 10' deep deck on new construction home.

Should I attach my P.T. 2x10 ledger now before house wrap to the rim board, or wait for house wrap and install over the house wrap? In either case I am concerned about flashing. Will I need a peel and stick membrane behind the ledger?

Since modern homes use I-Joists like mine, should I plan on installing blocking between each joist next to the rim board on the interior of the house to help support ledger anchors? It's not as simple like before with standard 2x joists
 
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Old 07-30-15, 06:37 AM
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Many of us build free standing decks now. No ledger is used at all. One advantage is that it prevents water from collecting where the deck meets the house. I've heard that it has a tax advantage but I haven't verified that.
 
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Old 07-30-15, 06:58 AM
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I don't really want to do that because it means more structure posts going down over my walkout basement area. I am planning on only having 3 or 4 posts to the ground by using the ledger as support. I doubt the tax advantage would work as it's still a deck and those who go out and assess the house won't be like "Oh look, it's not attached to the house and has a 1.5" gap between it. We can't tax the home owner for having a patio/deck now." -- at least not here. :P
 
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Old 07-30-15, 07:10 AM
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Found this web page and diagram that might help... http://sweets.construction.com/swts_...234/P20488.htm

One of the critical things in those instructions is the shear nailing of the subfloor to the rim joist and the rim joist to the sill plate. 6" on center. Its about the only thing that prevents the rim from pulling away in the event the nails into the i-joists wanted to pull out.

If you do go with an attached ledger, you definitely want your WRB to run behind the ledger to protect the sheathing from any possible water infiltration. You would also cut the WRB a few inches above the ledger, and tuck your ledger flashing behind the WRB.

Peel and stick could be used to tape the metal flashing directly to the sheathing. (under the WRB) But putting it behind the ledger would probably be a waste of $$$.

Check any local building codes before getting too far. In many areas they follow the new codes which require 6x6 posts, (not 4x4) and the posts can be no farther apart than 6' on center.
 
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Old 07-30-15, 08:07 AM
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The tax is only a secondary issue. The possible rotting of the ledger due to water collection was my main point. Two or three more posts wouldn't mean much to me but each to his own. If you are filing plans with the building dept, I would ask about both the ledger & the tax.
 
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Old 07-30-15, 08:10 AM
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A free standing deck does require more posts but it also means not poking holes into a wall which was otherwise not allowing water into the house as well as collecting against the house, as Pulpo mentioned.
 
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Old 07-30-15, 08:10 AM
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In Nebraska you're screwed with high property taxes no matter how you build the deck, so that's a non-factor IMO. Part of being in a farming state... one of the highest property taxes in the nation.
 
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Old 07-30-15, 09:56 PM
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Lovely to live in Nebraska

So, it sounds like if the framer installed my rim board (now covered by OSB) properly to the sill plate & joists I should be able to nail/screw the ledger into that without blocking on the inside of the rim-board? I don't see how that would hold...

It seems like it would be quite a chore to square a deck up right next to the house without attaching it to the house. I really would not like so many posts - especially right next to my foundation wall like that. It would look tacky in my view if I am down there a lot and see wood posts going up against the foundation. I really hope jurisdiction doesn't require the posts to be 6' o.c. the deck I researched in town was built 10 years ago and had true 6x6 posts 11' o.c. and only 1 or 2 2x10 was used as the ledger and the other set on the posts acting like the girder for joist hangers to fasten to.
 
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Old 07-31-15, 05:06 AM
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I squared a free standing 2nd story deck about 2 inches from the house. If you don't want the posts, that's your personal decision. AFAIK, you would need a post at each end & one in the middle, to cover the 20'. NY doesn't have the 6' on center rule. Hang the beams between the posts, with joist hangers. Don't set them on top. If you decide on free standing, the posts should continue 3' higher than the decking so that they can be used as part of the railing. The design that I used survived Hurricane Sandy about 2 miles from the beach. If you are going to have the job inspected, you might have to submit plans to the building department ahead of time. If you go that route, make sure that the deck matches the approved plans.
 
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Old 07-31-15, 05:38 AM
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When you say hang the beams with joist hangers...do you mean the joists themselves or don't set the outside beam (1 or 2 2x10's) atop the 3 exterior support columns?
 
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Old 07-31-15, 06:10 AM
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Both. Let's make it simple. Suppose we had 4 posts, in a perfect square & we were going to use double 2x10s. I would hang double joist hangers, on 2 sides of each post so they face each other. In the design that I used, the top of the beams were 3' below the top of the posts.
Each set of 2x10s were hung between the posts, on the joist hangers. Then I hung the joists 16" OC between the back & front set of 2x10s, also with joist hangers.

Of course, your design will require more posts, so you will need more joist hangers & more sets of double 2x10s but you follow the same design where they still get hung between the posts. It's a little tricky, if you use 4x4 posts. It's much easier if you use 6x6s. None of the double 2x10s are set on top of the posts nor are they set on the outside, of the posts.

If I didn't make that clear enough, let me know.
 
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Old 08-03-15, 05:45 AM
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I did not know doubled joist hangers for a double 2x10 would work to support the deck. I was always told to notch a 6x6 post the depth of the doubled header, and to use 2 lag bolts diagnolly to fasten the doubled header to the 6x6 and therefor it would be bearing down and be held up on the lip of the post. Aren't joist hangers only rated to carry load for the single joist where these would be carrying load for all joists and have the tendency to shear off (the nails used on the joist hangers into the 6x6 post) ?

Also, with my deck it would probably be 3 posts in a line at the front and back, so I would use 4 joist hangers on the middle post two on each side facing the corner posts...or is that too much stress?
 
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Old 08-03-15, 06:45 AM
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I followed plans drawn by an architect. Use a notch if you think it's better. The deck that I built with that design, survived Hurricane Sandy.

Just for clarification. I didn't take 2 single joist hangers & put theme side by side. Double joist hangers manufactured, for that reason.
 
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Old 08-03-15, 10:07 PM
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So having the joists share a center 6x6 would be okay, assuming inspector doesn't care? (Sometimes it may pass inspection but not be safe long-term)
 
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Old 08-04-15, 04:16 AM
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Beams not joists. I totally trust the architect who designed the deck that I described. However, always check your local codes. If they say no, it's no.
 
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Old 10-14-15, 07:24 AM
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Finally going to side the house that I have now built and am reviewing this post I made. I have heard some bad stories about moisture behind deck ledgers. I am considering the free standing approach, but would only want to do this if I could cantilever the *side* of my decking 4' from the end beams (this would be the 10' dimension). This way I can position my support posts away from the walkout door. I am not too concerned about having posts near the house foundation since the ground is settled and packed very well.


I am sure this can be done, but can it be done cost efficiently? I figured I would be using 2x8 PT for my joists. I am not sure they would cut the mustard for 4' cantilever point. I assume angle supports would solve the problem, but unfortunately adding 45 degree angle supports at the end would interfere with the basement door path.
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