Help with deck plans


  #1  
Old 10-20-15, 04:37 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Help with deck plans

i am learning on the fly how to build a retaining wall and now how to do a deck. I have been working on this nearly every day since 8/1. I am doing it with hand tools, picks, and shovels. I have moved nearly 10 ton of gravel and dirt up a hill 1 wheelbarrow at a time.
Here is what I started with. Well actually this as a week into the project as I realized we didn't have any pictures.


and after 10 weeks this is where I am now.




So our plan is to have the deck sit in the area up top between the retaining walls and then extend our about 4 feet beyond the wall. You can see in the first picture where I have it marked off. It will sit right above the lower retaining wall and will have a diagonal set of steps on the lower right. There will be another set of steps going up to our porch. My wife wants the porch and deck to be on separate levels. This will also be completely free standing minus the set of steps going to the porch.

I went onto lowes site and did the deck designer but they don't really help you pick what materials they just tell you how much and of what to buy. I am unsure of what size joists and beams to buy. I was thing a double 2x10 for the beams and a 2x8 for the joists at 16 on center. The beams will be pressure treated ground contact because of how close they will be to the ground on the upper section. The deck is going to be roughly 14'x14'. There is a 2x2 notch on the back left where the house is and the stairs will be diagonal so that cuts down a little space on the bottom right. The deck will also be all pressure treated wood, as much as I would like to use composite we really can't afford that right now. The deck boards will be running front to back as well.

Below is a 3d picture that that they gave me. The posts are all showing the same size but I know they will be different, the software just didn't give that option.


So here are some questions to get started.

1. Is it ok to use a double 2x10 for beams and 2x8s for posts?
2. Does this design for the posts seem correct?
3. I am digging all of these posts holes by hand which have to be 36 inches deep. I don't think that I am going to get them all done before it starts to freeze. Would it be acceptable to get some of the posts done now and the remaining after winter? If that would be ok I assume that I should do them in groups and complete 1 row that would have the beams on them and not do them 1 by 1.

I have so many questions but lets just start there. Hopefully I can get some help here. BTW, I have downloaded the manual that I see posted on here about deck specs but some of those are Greek to me.
 
  #2  
Old 10-21-15, 05:31 AM
W
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 6,413
Received 65 Upvotes on 56 Posts
Lumber

Is it ok to use a double 2x10 for beams and 2x8s for posts?
2x lumber is not rated for ground contact. Use 4x4's for the posts. Others will chime in with other suggestions.
 
  #3  
Old 10-21-15, 12:20 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Its 6x6 for posts not 4x4's. Here is current code on deck - http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standar...Guide-1405.pdf

You most likely will need to pull a permit on this project and will need working drawings to complete. Punch software has an affordable line of CAD programs that are user friendly and will get you what you need to pass the permit process. All the elements you asked about need to be satisfied per the above link.
 
  #4  
Old 10-21-15, 12:57 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Oops yes I meant 6x6 for posts. Was wondering in 2x8s were ok for joists
 
  #5  
Old 10-21-15, 02:14 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Was wondering in 2x8s were ok for joists
Refer to the awc.org link above to see if 2x8's are within the span tables to allow you to use them. It all depends on the final design and size of the deck. A side note, you mentioned a cantilever, they are limited in how far they can extend and also depend on the size of the span of the joists.
 
  #6  
Old 10-21-15, 02:35 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
There won't be a cantilever. There will be posts on all 4 corners.

I am trying to figure out the charts on spans and such. I am not sure if I am understanding them correctly. I guess the size of joists will depend on how close I can get the posts to the wall. If I am only allowed to have a little more that 1 foot overhang with the joists then I would have to get the beams pretty close to the wall. 2x10s would give me 3 feet of overhang.

I do have a question. I read in that manual that if a footer ia within 5 feet of the house then you have to go down to the same depth as the house footer. Does this still apply when the deck is not being supported by the house?
 
  #7  
Old 10-23-15, 04:20 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Was at one of the 2 big home improvement stores tonight and one f the workers in the lumber area told me not to buy wood there. He said it is #2 and a local place sells #1 for less money. Does this sound true?
 
  #8  
Old 10-23-15, 07:48 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
There won't be a cantilever.
I would have to get the beams pretty close to the wall. 2x10s would give me 3 feet of overhang.
An overhang is a cantilever. Please understand what you are building as it will hold live human beings in the air and needs to be safe.

I would put little faith in the "clerks" at the big box stores. However, if you can find #1 grade lumber for less than #2 grade, jump on it. In my observations, all framing 2x lumber is grade 2 and the 5/4 decking boards themselves are grade 1 or 2 depending on the presents of knot holes or if the wood is free of knot holes.
 
  #9  
Old 10-23-15, 08:24 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes this deck will be very safe. I will make sure of that hence the seemingly silly questions.

I always think of acantilever as a deck that is quite a few feet without a post underneath, not just 18 inhces.

I had one of the big box give me plans today. They have me using 4x4 as posts since it is a low deck. I threw them in the trash as I walked out the door.

I do have a question that I think I asked before. Since it is going to take some time to dig the footers what is my best game plan. Should I dig the 2 or 3 that will connect 1 beam set those posts and the move on to the next set?
 
  #10  
Old 10-23-15, 09:48 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,463
Received 129 Upvotes on 114 Posts
Not sure how where to design this deck for you when all we have is pictures of rubble and a retaining wall built out of landscape blocks with no drainage, lines showing, no idea what type of footing you have under them, no idea how high it's going to be.
2 x 8's for post was my first warning sign.
Did you get a permit for this work?
 
  #11  
Old 10-24-15, 05:04 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Every deck I have built has been done in stages.

1-Dig all the holes
2-Fill all holes with concrete
3-Set posts
4-Begn framing
5-Add Deckboards
6-Finish Railings and Stairs

One does not start the next step until the previous is finished. I don't piece meal at all.
 
  #12  
Old 10-24-15, 05:30 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Joe, What are you talking about.the retaining wall is not landscape block. They are 91 pound keystone retaining wall system. There is 12 inches of crushed limestone and limestone dust as a base under the wall. There is 12 inches of crushed limestone behind the wall as back fill. There is a full course buried as well, with drainage running out the side.I didn't come to this thread looking for rude comments on a wall that is built to local standards.

The 2x8 post was a typo that I corrected in the next post. Obviously no one is going to use that as a post.
 
  #13  
Old 10-25-15, 11:58 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
I think that the next steps are to get a working design and start a discussion with the local permit office. They will happily guide you to a safe finished product. Unfortunately, we will have no way of remotely drawing up plans for you.

Additional question on the proposed deck would be in regard to the proximity of your design to the sidewalk. There may be set back requirements that prevent building within that area.

Your previous question with regard to span tables. The values listed under the size lumber used relates to the maximum span between supports. It is further broken down by type of pressure treated lumber you plan on using for the framing. If your deck dimensions are larger than the maximum span, then you need to add additional support posts mid-span to fall withing code.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: