Redoing exterior staicase fiberglas landing

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Old 04-03-16, 09:45 AM
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Redoing exterior staicase fiberglas landing

I want to redo my exterior staircase steps and the landing/balcony just before the entrance door.
The surface is a fiberglas layer applied , I guess, over the original plywood .
There are little cracks here and there on the fiberglass which need to be repaired before painting.
1. What kind of paint is best? Is concrete /garage floor epoxy good?
2. Do I need a primer?
3. I don’t want the paint to be slippery ( I made the mistake of putting a coat of exterior varnish over my wooden deck floor and It is as as slippery as a skating rink, especially in winter). How can I make sure that the new paint job doesn’t do the same? We are elderly people ( 74) and the last thing we need is to break a bone or worse, especially in winter and freezing rain conditions.) There is an antigrit-powder to mix with the paint, but I tried it with another job and for some reasons the paint flakes off..
4. What product to use to fill the cracks before painting?

Thanks

Ittiandro
 
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Old 04-03-16, 10:30 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

I don't recall ever running across stairs that were coated with fiberglass, is there a dry area underneath? I would assume a fiberglass resin would be used to seal the cracks but maybe caulking would work. Is there a coating on it now? While those grit additives work well they tend to wear off high traffic areas in short order.

pics might be helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
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Old 04-03-16, 03:35 PM
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Fiberglas staircase

Sorry duplicate post. It was supposed to be a reply to Marksr.
Thanks


Ittiandro
 
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Old 04-03-16, 03:39 PM
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Reply to Marksr

It is - 8 C outside and my camera battery is discharged.I'll send pics as soon as possible, but I can tell you that this fiberglas cladding is very common, at least here in Canada . I believe it is glued on the surface or the stairs , but I don't know exactly because it was already in place when I bought the house.

This fiberglas cladding comes in sheets which can be cut to size. It is also widely used to dress or clad brick façades of houses, when the brick is a bit old or frayed, rather than repairing it or do a pointing ( not PAINTING !) job, which can be expensive labor-wise.
It is not only cheaper than repairing brick-work, but just as effective, if not more effective because the material underneath ( whether wood or brick) is sealed and protected for life against the elements, especially winds and snow, which is imperative here in Canada.

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Ittiandro
 
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Old 04-04-16, 11:26 AM
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Size:  28.8 KBHi Marksr

I am enclosing a few pics of the fiberglas project.
Contrary to what I thought, the steps of the stairway seem to be made entirely in fiberglas and not just fiberglas cladding because the fiberglas extends to the downside of the steps and seems to wrap the steps entirely. I still believe, though, that the landing is just a cladding over the plywood of the balcony, because I had already stripped one of the other balconies to replace the flooring with treated wood and there was plywood underneath the fiberglas.
Anyway, it is perhaps a moot issue, because all I want is to repair and repaint the existing fiberglas surface.

Thanks
 
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Old 04-04-16, 02:22 PM
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Don't think I've ever seen fiberglass treads before.

There are 2 ways to fix the cracks, sand off the paint around the crack and fill with fiberglass resin [use fiberglass cloth if the crack is wide] or just caulk the cracks [not as good but easier/quicker]

Any floor or garage enamel/epoxy will be shiny and probably slick when wet although the threads texture helps some. I'd likely use a latex house paint on the treads, mainly to alleviate the slickness concerns.
 
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Old 04-04-16, 03:54 PM
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Thanks for your reply Marksr

1.Do I absolutely need a primer with a garage enamel/epoxy paint?

2. When you say caulking, do you mean the caulking used to seal around windows and doors to keep off the cold in winter?

3. Would the anti-skid powder mixed with the paint help in reducing the slick, making the surface less slippery?

Thanks

Ittiandro
 
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Old 04-05-16, 04:13 AM
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#1 - it depends on both the epoxy and the coating that is currently applied to the substrate. The label on the paint can generally tells what is required. Epoxies tend to be shiny/slick.

#2 - yes, a quality latex [or polyurethane] caulking like you'd normally use prior to painting. You want to 'force' it into the crack and remove the excess.

#3 - the grit additives work but it generally wears off high traffic areas [where you walk the most ]
 
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