Patio, attach to wall or free standing?

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Old 04-09-16, 11:08 AM
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Post Patio, attach to wall or free standing?

Dear members.

I am thinking of building a covered patio on the side of my house above kitchen door. Not sure what the measurements will be but roughly 6-8 ft deep and 16-20 ft wide. The existing exterior of the house is Tabby.
I am not sure if I will make it freestanding or attach ledgers to wall, but then I might have to remove tabby to attach ledger to frame??
I will attach picture later for a better visual.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Ron
 
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Old 04-09-16, 12:23 PM
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If you do attach it to the house, it will be more stable, but it will also usually mean the rest of the room needs to be on footings or piers below frost.

I say usually, because we have no idea where you uive as you have not filled out that portion of your profile yet. So I would encourage you to do that. Welcome to the forum!
 
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Old 04-10-16, 02:50 PM
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Picture

I live in Southeast Georgia, on an island of the coast called Saint Simons Island.
I have never build anything big like this but I do agree probably attached would be more secure and sturdy.
I was thinking about removing concrete steps to kitchen door and make deck plus patio. Looking at the picture right now not sure if I have enough hight above the door. I hardly ever freezes here so that should not be a problem. When I build my fence I put concrete on the post and they have been there for years.

The house is build up with about a 3 ft crawlspace.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Do not use to difficult building language please

Ron
 
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Old 04-10-16, 03:08 PM
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You might not have to do all that work. Google 'patio awning kits'. I would use a ledger no matter what you decide.
 
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Old 04-10-16, 03:32 PM
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The below drawing shows a typical patio cover. I posted it so you will be familiar with the terms used and the typical way of building.

The drawing doesn't specify:
- Connectors to be used for post-to-beam connections
- Connectors used for joist to beam connections
- Depth of footings under posts, and method of attaching posts to foundation
- Connection method to house

You can get help here on all the things above that are not detailed in the drawing. It's easier than it looks to shop for all the proper hardware and materials.

Name:  pat150.jpg
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Old 04-10-16, 04:57 PM
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Thanks

Handyone,

Thanks for the quick reply and drawing. I was actually thinking of making a deck instead of a concrete slab.
This drawing is very helpful...thanks again!!

Ron
 
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Old 04-11-16, 03:10 AM
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It isn't a good idea to install a wood deck close to the ground. Wood needs to have ventilation under it to help remove any moisture that collects under the floor. While concrete cost more initially it is maintenance free. Wood decks built at/near ground level tend to have a short life.
 
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Old 04-11-16, 01:47 PM
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There are lots of wood decks built at ground level. Built properly, they will last just as long as a regular raised deck. I had one at my old house that had airflow on only one side (of four), with most of the ventilation being provided by the gaps between the decking boards. It lasted 25 years and counting when I left.

You *do* need to account for it by having space underneath the beams and between the boards to allow for proper airflow, but it is by no means preventative. I myself don't like the cheap look of concrete, and if you want to have a stamped and dyed patio it's more expensive than a deck (plus you don't have the option of doing it yourself).
 
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Old 04-11-16, 02:15 PM
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Cool wood

Thanks for the replies gentlemen!!

I was thinking the same think about the Aesthetic part of it all. In my opinion a wooden deck looks much better than concrete but on another note there is a lot you can do nowadays with concrete. There is no hurry with the project since "the boss" has something else in mind before doing this
 
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Old 04-12-16, 04:40 AM
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I added a 10x14 to the back of my house without attaching ledgers and part of it is also almost ground level but I dug out around those parts to allow for air flow.
 
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