Need to repair board on curved deck


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Old 01-31-17, 07:26 AM
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Need to repair board on curved deck

Good morning.

I have recently moved into a home with a pre-existing curved deck. A curved board has popped off the deck and is in need of repair.
The previous owner used a particle board so he could achieve the desired curve, and I am assuming repeatedly tacked it back on every year when it became dislodged.
I am wondering what the correct material would be for this. I would love to use a MDF or plastic board that would be able to achieve the desired curve and not have to worry about replacing it every year.

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I am attaching pictures so you can see the board and the angle of curve.
Thank you in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 01-31-17, 07:35 AM
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One option is to use a material like Trex. They have rim boards up to 10" wide that would be easy to bend around corners.
 
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Old 01-31-17, 08:14 AM
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Is it particle board or masonite? If you want to keep the existing board you should be able to reattach it at a different point or with longer screws.
 
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Old 01-31-17, 08:17 AM
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I agree. But that radius is so tight, you might need to heat it to bend that sort of corner. It probably doesn't help that the end joint of the board is so close to the corner... it wants to spring away. Relocating the end joints might be a good idea if you plan to change all of it.

Composites and PVC can be heated and bent more easily by using a portable heater (salamander) that is blowing into a long section of metal culvert that is plugged on one end. (as an oven) You would probably get the best results by heating it, then quickly clamping it to a template that leaves the ends slightly "overbent", because as mentioned already, it will still want to spring back somewhat. Then install it once it has cooled.

Composites expand and contract a lot, so to keep it from bulging you would need to install it with a lot of trim screws, every 12" or so. This means that there needs to be good blocking behind it (to screw into) on those curved corners.

It looks to me like the product he used previously was LP Smartside lap siding. (16' long pieces) It probably would have worked better if it had been painted on the back side. All these products are available at Menards if you have one nearby. (Composites like Ultra deck cladding are 12' long.)
 
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Old 01-31-17, 08:31 AM
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Sure looks like OSB under that fascia to me.
Poor choice for that application.
It's not going to hold screws, soak up water, rot out.
Pressure treated plywood would work better.
That fascia board never should have been installed like that.
I would have tried to make the middle of the bend be as close as possible to the middle of the fascia board so there's less stress on the screws on the ends.
 
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Old 01-31-17, 08:34 AM
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I thought that at first too but I think that's the back part of the LP siding delaminating. You can see on the end of the 3/8" siding that it is delaminating.
 
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Old 01-31-17, 08:56 AM
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If you want a temporary fix, you could put a 3 or 4 inch wide batten over the joint, screwed into blocking behind the joint. Blocking may be there or you may need to add it.

But agree that long term fix is a composite trim board, bent with heat if necessary, and installed so the joints are not on the curve.
 
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Old 01-31-17, 03:15 PM
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Thank you

Thanks for all the great replies!

I am going to try heating a composite board to make the bend and adding some blocking behind the board so I have ample spots to secure it.

Great info! A lot of things I would not have thought of!
 
 

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