Filling the space between wall and stairs?

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Old 07-03-17, 05:00 PM
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Filling the space between wall and stairs?

Redoing the back of the house... I have space between the stairs and the wall. It's just over 4' so as I replace the old PT with new comp decking, it would be a lot of expensive waste if I don't use 4' boards. Same for the lower deck portion... like 4"6". I don't think I can move the whole thing to the wall, then there would be a 6" jog at the top of the stairs with new posts & rails.

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Last edited by PJmax; 07-03-17 at 09:04 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
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Old 07-03-17, 05:12 PM
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If cost is of no concern, I suppose you could always replace the Treads and the Risers with items that are 4" longer than what's on there now ?
 
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Old 07-03-17, 09:20 PM
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Not the pro here... just thinking out loud.

Not sure what you plan to use for the step treads and the lower deck but see if it's available in longer lengths. You can get multiples out of a longer length of material.

Trex decking comes in 12', 16' and 20' lengths.
 
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Old 07-04-17, 04:45 AM
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If you're adamant about keeping 4' treads/risers you could install a double skirt board on the house side to take up most of the difference.
 
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Old 07-04-17, 05:04 AM
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A doubled up skirt board on the right would look funky even if 5/4 was used and would still leave a gap.
That hand rail on the stairs does not meet modern codes.
Top rail should have been continuous not broken up by the post like that, and there's no grippable handrail.
 
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Old 07-04-17, 10:24 AM
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double skirt board? it's a 5 1/4" gap between stair treads and the wall. thanks but I figured as much.

i'm redoing the posts/rails/balusters also.

guess I'm gonna have to move the stairs over against the wall. It's just another prob cause the stair railing will be inside the deck railing by abt 6".
 
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Old 07-07-17, 04:50 AM
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I miss read the width of the gap in the original post but you could still use 2 skirt boards; 1 attached the the stringer and the other to the wall with a board over top to span the gap. Kind of like a ledge but on an angle.
 
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Old 07-07-17, 04:56 AM
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marksr just posted exactly what I was thinking and sketching! Here's my very rough sketch.
Edit: Just screw the skirt to the existing stair by from under the stair
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Old 07-09-17, 07:51 AM
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WOW! First time i've seen a sketch on here. Marksr, i didn't state the gap on the orig post so you couldn't have known.
Definitely an option, but I'd have to do a mock-up to really see what it may look like.
 
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Old 07-09-17, 08:11 AM
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After working for 40+ years as an architect, sketching is kind of a hazard of the occupation .

Building a mock-up is absolutely the best way to approach a design issue to see if it looks OK without spending a lot f money. If it were mine, I'd start by holding the top board an inch or so above the tread nosings. Hope what marksr and I came up with works for you.
 
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Old 07-16-17, 11:47 AM
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Part 2 - questions abt posts, deck support

OK, I removed the lower deck boards since I'm replacing them with new composite boards. I lowered the last stair (added a step) to have the lower deck now abt 7" above grade. I was also able to move the stringers over a few inches at the base so now I can add a 2x skirt board along the wall with a minimal gap.

The stair stringers rested on some bricks set in the ground a few inches. Never had a prob with them. The post at the stair base was a cut 4x post bolted to the stringer. This was't much of a prob but my questions now are...

should I set this post in the ground below the frost line (48") to get it real firm?

The lower deck is now abt 5' long. How would you set the front of this lower deck in the ground? Must I support it also with a post below the frost line? or can I just support it below ground level with bricks like the old one was?
 
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Old 07-17-17, 04:46 AM
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The correct answer is to put in some small footings down to your code frost line.

Having said that, I have supported the base of stairs on just a heavy block mostly at grade. BUT you have to be sure that you're in soil that drains reasonably well (like sand) and that you can tolerate movement with everything. You can't be attached to your house in any way and the connection at the top of your stair must be able to tolerate movement without splitting or cracking. Lots of ifs, ands or buts.
 
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