Notching 6x6 Posts for Glulam Beam (rim joist) Questions

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Old 08-27-18, 04:35 PM
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Arrow Notching 6x6 Posts for Glulam Beam (rim joist) Questions

I had an old thread in here, but it's too old to post replies to. I never got building, so it isn't accurate anyway as plans changed slightly.....but you can search for it if you want.

16' wide x 12' deep deck that the finished decking is ~8'7" off ground. Getting rebuilt with Timbertech composite a bit bigger at 30'w x 15'd and a roof that matches current house gable roof line put over it. I already have some PE drawings stamped, but would like some feedback and thoughts. Will be using 2x10 ledger, 2x10 joists. 6x6 posts will be sitting on 18" diam 30" deep sonotubes on outsides and 24" diam 30" deep sonotube in center with Simpson's new MPBZ66 post bases.

Can I run a 6x6 post up (mounted on Simpsons new MPBZ66 bases) up all the way with a notch (- 2 1/4") for the glulam in the middle? The top will also be notched for the same type glulam to carry the roof load? Would be through bolted with Fastenmaster ThruLoks.

If this is ok (which PE says is), can I mount my joist hangers directly off of this glulam (ie: rim joist), or do I need to rest the joists on top of it and not use hangers on that far side away from the house [opposite ledger]?

Does it matter if notch is facing house or away from house on those 6x6s? My current deck with notched 6x6s for double 2x10s is notched on the outside away from house side; but if I do that with the glulam I won't be able to mount joists where the posts are.

The glulam is a Titan Timber 3 1/4" x 11 1/4" x 15' pressure treated (24F-1.8e SYP)

Picture (crude drawing by me) attached to help clarify.

Thank you!

My father and I are very DIY, but aren't experts.
 
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Old 08-27-18, 05:11 PM
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I'm not going to trump what your PE says, so your best ideas will probably come from him. For reference, you could download the DCA6 deck guide and double check your plans. For instance table 4 in the DCA6 has specs on post height and footer size requirements.

As for notching, IMO the notch should face away from the house so that the glulam acts as your rim and the decking extends out to the end of each post. Joist hanger problems can be solved by the use of either a concealed hanger (no flanges... if needed) or by adding blocking across the 6x6 (between joists) to give more nailing surface for a standard hanger if the layout happens to fall on the edge of a post.

Personally, if it was my deck, I would feel better using 8x8s. Leaves more meat behind the notch.

Also keep in mind that Timbertech recommends 12" on center layout for "commercial applications". That tells you something... the deck may feel a bit springy if it's on 16" center as most decks are. Not saying you need to go 12" on center, just something to be aware of.

And if you plan on capping your rim joists with a composite fascia, you may want to notch them about 5/8" deeper so that your glulam is recessed but your composite fascia will lay flush with the posts.
 
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Old 08-27-18, 08:29 PM
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Timbertech at 16" is fine, that is my current, and former decking!
 
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Old 08-28-18, 07:11 AM
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Thank you very much for the reply.

As for notching, IMO the notch should face away from the house so that the glulam acts as your rim and the decking extends out to the end of each post. Joist hanger problems can be solved by the use of either a concealed hanger (no flanges... if needed) or by adding blocking across the 6x6 (between joists) to give more nailing surface for a standard hanger if the layout happens to fall on the edge of a post.
This is where I am a little confused. Dont want it to sound like I dont know what I am doing....cause I mostly do. I guess there are a few ways to skin this cat. I attached a picture to this post with two options. I'd wager #1 is the way to go? Can I extend my glulam just enough past the end 6x6 post to rest the last 2x10 joist to serve as my outter box rim joist? Seems stronger then my current decks setup [built '02].

I'm not going to trump what your PE says, so your best ideas will probably come from him. For reference, you could download the DCA6 deck guide and double check your plans. For instance table 4 in the DCA6 has specs on post height and footer size requirements
Got that DCA6 printed and in my stack of drawings, research, and diagrams. It is VERY handy.

Personally, if it was my deck, I would feel better using 8x8s. Leaves more meat behind the notch
I somewhat agree, but feel might be overkill. Trying to stand up 16-18' 6x6s or 8x8s without heavy equipment isnt going to be real fun. I think 8x8 would be considerably heavier.

And if you plan on capping your rim joists with a composite fascia, you may want to notch them about 5/8" deeper so that your glulam is recessed but your composite fascia will lay flush with the posts.
I do plan on eventually going back and trimming everything out. The current plan/drawings have the glulam flush with the edge/end of 6x6, so not sure I follow on this.

Appreciate the time and help/suggestions guys.
 
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Last edited by R_Willis; 08-28-18 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 08-28-18, 07:43 AM
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The more I think about it, the notch should face the house. That way your fascia cover fits between posts. And your decking overhang is also not protruding beyond the posts.
 
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