Sagging ledger board deck


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Old 05-15-20, 01:16 PM
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Sagging ledger board deck

I was replacing the decking of my 10’x12’ deck and noticed that some of the joists were rotten, and the left side of the ledger board , which is anchored to a concrete footing, is moving and cracked at the end. Should I replace the ledger board also? The house and deck were built in 1986. I am including a picture.
 

Last edited by XSleeper; 05-15-20 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Removed bad image link
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Old 05-15-20, 03:24 PM
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Your picture didn't work but the ledger is very important to the strength and safety of a deck. I would replace the damaged section and bring the entire ledger up to modern standards.
 
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Old 05-15-20, 03:31 PM
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Putting pictures in your post is a sticky at the top of this topic forum.

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/d...your-post.html
 
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Old 05-22-20, 06:27 AM
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I am replacing the ledger board. Also, noticed that two beams (2x8) are attached to the side of the post (4x4) with diagonal bracing. Both beams and posts are in excellent condition. The deck is only 16" from the floor and the joist span is 7' 5". joist spacing is 16". Is the post-to-beam attachment up to code in SC?
 
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Old 05-22-20, 07:32 AM
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Well, here's the thing. We have no way of knowing what your local code is. There is not one code that 100% of the country goes by. Some areas don't even have codes. You would need to call your local building department and ask what building code they go by, and tell us what they said. That being said, you probably aren't getting an inspection and who knows if the deck was originally inspected when it was built. My guess is that it wasn't. Which explains a lot.

Current codes (the 2015 IRC for example) do not allow 4x4 posts, it requires beams to either be notched into the post or sit on top of the post by using a connector, and nails or screws have never been an approved way to attach a beam to the side of a post.

There is nothing that says you have to completely rebuild your deck to meet current code. If there were rules like that you would have to tear down half the decks in the country. But if you want to see a guide that shows how decks should be built, consult the DCA6, which is a 2015 IRC code compliant guide.

At a minimum I would suggest you drill 1/2" holes clear through your "beam" with a 12" long 1/2" drill bit, then put two 1/2" galvanized bolts, washers and nuts on them. The DCA6 also shows how your ledger should be properly attached and flashed.
 
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Old 05-22-20, 08:17 AM
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I am curious why a diagonal brace like that was installed on a deck so low to the ground. It makes me wonder what problem they were trying to correct.
 
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Old 05-22-20, 08:46 AM
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Thank you for your feedback. I will replace the posts with 6x6 an follow code.

To attach the new ledger board (2"x8"x12") to a concrete foundation, could I use Red Head 5-1/2-in x 1/2-in zinc-plated steel wedge anchors? or Tapcon 4 in x1/2 in?
 
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Old 05-22-20, 09:43 AM
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5 1/2"? That's a little long. Either would be fine IMO. Hope it's poured concrete and not hollow block. Building code defers to the mfg when it comes to proper anchor embedment.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 02:53 PM
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Should I use Sleeve anchors or wedge anchors? Again, I am attaching a ledger board 2 x 8 x 12 to a Block filled concrete. Which one is better?
 
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Old 05-28-20, 03:13 PM
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Are you sure the block is filled? Because if it isn't, you cannot attach anything to it. Type of anchor really doesnt matter. I'd probably use wedge anchors.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 03:20 PM
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I use epoxy to embed anchors in filled CMU or through bolt with a large washer or steel plate on the other side.
 
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Old 05-29-20, 09:43 AM
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XSleeper, the concrete blocks are not all filled. So , I guess I have to build a non-ledger deck? How close to the house should I dig another set of 6x6 posts? I have been reading some materials and found out that footings should be placed at the same elevation as the house footing. How should I determine the elevation of the house footing?
 
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Old 05-29-20, 10:47 AM
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Deck posts is a whole new can of worms. My inspectors want the footers to be on undisturbed, virgin soil or disturbed soil that has been compacted and inspected by an Engineer (expensive). So, in practice this means your post footers must be below the depth the area was excavated to build your house. This has nothing to do with frost line and is about getting below the back filled area and down to undisturbed, virgin soil. My inspectors pay special attention to footers next to a house and do probe the soil to make sure it's "hard enough". So when you dig your holes cover them if you're going to get rain. You don't want the bottom of your holes to get soft and muddy or you could have to dig them deeper to get back to hard ground.
 
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Old 06-22-20, 05:29 AM
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Ended up rebuilding the entire desk ( non-ledger deck) using DCA6, (2015 IRC code compliant guide). I am currently debating about the style of the guard. I know the opening of the bottom guard shall not allow the passage of a 4' diameter sphere. Is the bottom guard required by code? Could I just attach the balusters to the top guard and to the rim joist? Also, DCA6 does not mention at all about the fascia. is a fascia required?
 
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Old 06-22-20, 05:38 AM
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It sounds like you are talking about the railing, but what is a "guard"?
 
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Old 06-22-20, 06:15 AM
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Guard is a synonym of rail
 
 

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