Deck Replacement

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Old 06-27-20, 12:13 PM
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Deck Replacement

Hello all,

We have lived in our Townhouse 13 years. Our back deck 12d x 20w was put in 5 years prior to us buying this home. Recently when it rains I noticed the water wasn't rolling away from the house, it would roll towards the house. I did notice the first board is flush against the foundation. This led me to believe what little space there was between the first board and the foundation has built up dirt making the water just pool up and barely move. Last weekend I decided I wanted to replace this deck, not just for this reason but other reasons as well. Rotting, Breaking up, Soft wobbly spots. When I started ripping up the boards I noticed the 4x4 support beams were 2ft on center and sitting directly on the ground. This has left me in a position where I am not sure what to do. The distance between the ground and the siding is only 5 inches. The ground under the current deck is more of a clay than dirt. As I started ripping up the 4x4s I noticed they had warped. The end that was at the house was lower than the middle just like the other end.

Anywhoo,,, I can really use dome guidance here on how I can put down my new deck with full support and have it slightly grade away from the house. I am looking at using the standard 5/4" x 6" WeatherShield and staggered with 12' and 8' pcs. I would like to use 20' pcs but I can't seem to find this in 20' pcs.

So with all that being said any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Have a safe and happy weekend
Bob


 
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Old 06-27-20, 12:20 PM
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Pretty hard to give advice sight unseen. You can see the framing and grade, we cant. Best advice I could give at this point is for you to download the DCA6 deck guide and familiarize yourself with how a deck should be built. We also dont know your location, or if you need permits where you live, but generally decks should be permitted and inspected. There are a few places that exist that dont have codes, or that dont care if you build decks on top of the ground but no way for us to know. The advice we give is usually based on current building codes, not on diy hacks. (Shortcuts)
 
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Old 06-27-20, 05:25 PM
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I have my permits and know the codes. I have the guide on how to build decks. I can't find anything in the guide that helps with my situation. I was hoping to get some thoughts or ideas on how to fully secure the frame from warping like my old deck did. I actually have 7" of space between the ground and the siding. I was thinking of using 2x6 for the frame. Considering I can't find solid 20' sections of the 5/4" x 6 WeatherShield I am going to use 12' and 8' pcs. With that said I thought I would use 4x4's where the 8 footers meet the 12 footers. and do 16" on center joists. I was also thinking of 10 holes and cementing in 4x4's and securing them to the joists. There are a handful of different ways I can go to support the frame. I was hoping someone would have a suggestion that wasn't too complicated.

I am having difficulty getting a picture to show. When I figure it out I will post it.
 
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Old 06-27-20, 07:28 PM
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5" from grade or 7"? Thought about pouring a patio instead of building a deck?

Regardless... if its a 12x20 deck, run the joists the 12' direction. And the decking the 20' direction. Ledger on the house, same size as your rim joist or if it's too small, minimum 2x8 ledger with the same sized beam in front. Or if you are doing a freestanding deck, it would be a beam in front and in back.

If for some reason you wont do that, you would turn the beams 90 degrees and you would need three 12' long beams, with 10' joists.

Being that close to the ground, you dont need posts... your beams could sit directly on concrete piers (sonotubes) that extend above grade and are all set level and are poured at the right spacing and height for you to build off of. Your pier spacing is dictated by the beam span tables based on the size of the beam and the span of the joists.

Posts for a handrail can be added after the fact, bolted to either the inside or the outside of the rim, depending on how you want it to look. It would be silly to put posts under such a low deck. You could, but they would need to rest on post bases anchored to the top of the concrete. You don't usually want to embed posts in concrete, unless there is no other option.

Your grade underneath the deck is a completely separate issue which you should fix once you demo the old deck and have the concrete piers in place.

I dont think you should even consider using 2x6s. If you want a solid deck you go by the span tables, which are the maximum spans allowed. Using smaller dimension lumber would just mean you would need more beams, more footings, more posts. You use wider lumber so you have longer spans, less beams, and less columns. And a more solid deck.

Decking typically comes as 16' pieces. If you run it the 20 foot direction, the first row is 16+4. Next row is 12+8. Next row is 8+12. Next row is 4+16 and so on.

If you run the joists the other way (3 beams and 10' joists to make 20') then your 12' material would lend itself to no butt joints. But as far as cost and material sq ft it would be exactly the same.
 
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Old 06-27-20, 07:53 PM
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Posting pictures has just been made very easy....... How-to-insert-pictures.
 
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Old 06-28-20, 12:16 PM
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Grounds for Deck


 
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