software for decks with different material options
#1
Member
Thread Starter
software for decks with different material options
Hello,
I'm looking to use free software that will show deck piers not required when attached to the house.
When using decks.com or Home Depot deck designer, these software place footings adjacent to house.
Do-It-Yourself Deck Designer (Home Depot):
Decks.com post view:
and Simpson Strong-Tie:
I could be missing something but I do believe piers adjacent to house foundation seems odd and placement could be better or some piers removed when attached to house. The Decks.com and Simpson Strong-Tie sites did some of that but not on the side.
I'd really like to not have footings and posts adjacent to home foundation, factor in posts that are steel or 6x6, and better wood species that allow beams and joists that allow for longer spans. I'm planning on beam flush with joist construction.
Thanks,
Jason
I'm looking to use free software that will show deck piers not required when attached to the house.
When using decks.com or Home Depot deck designer, these software place footings adjacent to house.
Do-It-Yourself Deck Designer (Home Depot):
Decks.com post view:
and Simpson Strong-Tie:
I could be missing something but I do believe piers adjacent to house foundation seems odd and placement could be better or some piers removed when attached to house. The Decks.com and Simpson Strong-Tie sites did some of that but not on the side.
I'd really like to not have footings and posts adjacent to home foundation, factor in posts that are steel or 6x6, and better wood species that allow beams and joists that allow for longer spans. I'm planning on beam flush with joist construction.
Thanks,
Jason
Last edited by Jason Madruga; 08-08-20 at 03:07 PM.
#2
Member
Please post a picture of your real house where you want this deck.
Is this a brick sided house?
If so you can not just attach a ledger to brick, it would need to be through bolted.
Is the deck going to be a second story deck like you show in the pictures?
Is this a brick sided house?
If so you can not just attach a ledger to brick, it would need to be through bolted.
Is the deck going to be a second story deck like you show in the pictures?
#3
Member
CODE Says Other Wise , so They will Bust You on that .. or Ask for some Stupid Number that States needs to Issue = Equal to - BS
I'd say with Use of Nice Expansion Joints ~ You'll be Find and Totally Free Floating or Self Supported . .
Tq. onto Building with (( Nice Big Strong Bolts )) But only Use Min. 15-20 Ft. Lbs into
(( Main Frame on (( Home - Construction Band )) between floors . . .
NOT 50-60 ft. Lbs. - like most persons would be doing ..
Then there is the Brick Siding Question and Where on Home .. How many Person Rated etc.
I'd say with Use of Nice Expansion Joints ~ You'll be Find and Totally Free Floating or Self Supported . .
Tq. onto Building with (( Nice Big Strong Bolts )) But only Use Min. 15-20 Ft. Lbs into
(( Main Frame on (( Home - Construction Band )) between floors . . .
NOT 50-60 ft. Lbs. - like most persons would be doing ..
Then there is the Brick Siding Question and Where on Home .. How many Person Rated etc.
#4
Member
In Fact - If this is to be Used in any-manor as a Fire Escape then it has to be __ Totally Free Standing & Self Supporting - Period ! ( Maybe also * Covered * )
Expansion Joint Materials to between Building & Deck Landing acting as a Bumper . .
It's been awhile , so might be something New out there - would serve Better . .
Expansion Joint Materials to between Building & Deck Landing acting as a Bumper . .
It's been awhile , so might be something New out there - would serve Better . .
#5
Member
If U Design so that System is 85% on the Other Supports & U - Up Grade two Sizes on Support Beams
Then You'd be Cantilevering toward the Home in a Manor of Speaking ..
If You Deck was to be 10ft out and You place 1 @ 10ft Out
1 @ 6ft Out , then Last one Heading toward Home 2ft Out - You'll Miss Your French Drains
etc. (( Blame it all on French Drains )) so U have 4ft Spacing , but never get close to Homes Out Wall . .
If I'm Reading what Your asking . . also Add a Double Band on Outside & Inside - just for Good Measure
Use Torx - Screws as those are Rated 10K Lbs
Tried to Insert Picture of Hardware , but No Go ~ Lag
Danny Boy
Then You'd be Cantilevering toward the Home in a Manor of Speaking ..
If You Deck was to be 10ft out and You place 1 @ 10ft Out
1 @ 6ft Out , then Last one Heading toward Home 2ft Out - You'll Miss Your French Drains
etc. (( Blame it all on French Drains )) so U have 4ft Spacing , but never get close to Homes Out Wall . .
If I'm Reading what Your asking . . also Add a Double Band on Outside & Inside - just for Good Measure
Use Torx - Screws as those are Rated 10K Lbs
Tried to Insert Picture of Hardware , but No Go ~ Lag
Danny Boy
#6
Member
Thread Starter
pictures of deck
I'm a DIYer home owner and just seen somewhere about brick why maybe want free-standing. I think I understand why you want picture. T1-11 is in bad shape, will be replaced with Hard-Panels. Here are a few:
thanks
thanks
#8
Member
You'd be Surprised Old T-11 is Tough Stuff , Power Washing & Restore A Finish would be New again ..
Hardi - Panels have a lot of Issues with Butt Joints , why Contractors By 20 ft long Pcs to stay hell away from Joints. then Time & Cost You'll be 2-3K .. also these Places Selling Cheap & Ware Houses Type sales
Stuff is Generally Rejected from Factory or been Laying in Pouring Rain for 7 Months . .
On that Home One side is Cantilevered and Other side is Supported ..
, Only Side You have Left would have to be Free Standing - Fully Supported . . - Just Cantilever Backwards
Is all ..
Hardi - Panels have a lot of Issues with Butt Joints , why Contractors By 20 ft long Pcs to stay hell away from Joints. then Time & Cost You'll be 2-3K .. also these Places Selling Cheap & Ware Houses Type sales
Stuff is Generally Rejected from Factory or been Laying in Pouring Rain for 7 Months . .
On that Home One side is Cantilevered and Other side is Supported ..
, Only Side You have Left would have to be Free Standing - Fully Supported . . - Just Cantilever Backwards
Is all ..
Jason Madruga
voted this post useful.
#9
Member
If You Really have a Soft Siding Issue - it's an Issue with the Fact everywhere Builder buy 8ft Long Lumber
No One if Buying 12ft sheets , and so the Seam Between the Upper & Lower will or has Caused Issues . .
so If You really have to Pull it all on 1 side , where the Rain is Wind Driven ( WOW )
Plan on Pulling all Insulation and Spray Foaming it or using ROCK WOOL - Insulation it is 100% Better
Won't ever get a Nasty like Fiber Glass . . Crap .. 80% Better Sound Deading , Fire Proof , Has much High R
Per Inch the Glass . .
No One if Buying 12ft sheets , and so the Seam Between the Upper & Lower will or has Caused Issues . .
so If You really have to Pull it all on 1 side , where the Rain is Wind Driven ( WOW )
Plan on Pulling all Insulation and Spray Foaming it or using ROCK WOOL - Insulation it is 100% Better
Won't ever get a Nasty like Fiber Glass . . Crap .. 80% Better Sound Deading , Fire Proof , Has much High R
Per Inch the Glass . .
#10
Member
Will If there is HOA let You put on a Porch , I'd Punch Hole right through Building with a Lower Door Way ..
Increase Sq. Footage .. send Roof Up to Cover Buildling Side - add Mini Split to Enclose . .
I see last Picture now , so It all looks to be Going on the Lower Back Home . . ?_?
Increase Sq. Footage .. send Roof Up to Cover Buildling Side - add Mini Split to Enclose . .
I see last Picture now , so It all looks to be Going on the Lower Back Home . . ?_?
#12
Member
Thread Starter
joecaption,
Do you mean I can remove the the piers that are adjacent to the home foundation and connect to the home with a ledger?
-Jason
Do you mean I can remove the the piers that are adjacent to the home foundation and connect to the home with a ledger?
-Jason
#13
In order to use ledgers, your joists must be perpendicular to the ledgers. (So your drawing would need to be modified). However it gets a little complicated to turn a corner with ledgers, since a ledger cannot (is not allowed to) support a beam. So your beam (or beams) would need to sit in pockets in the load bearing wall. A deck like this would likely need to be designed and approved by a structural engineer in order to get your permit approved.
#15
Member
Thread Starter
I want to remove piers and posts circiled in orange. Can I reposition, if necessary, piers and posts circled in red? Here's my config I put in for Simpson Strong-Tie site:
Footer depth 30"
Min. PSF
Dead Live PSF 40
Dead Deck PSF 10
Concrete piers
Souther pine
Joist Size 2x8
Beam size 2x8
Post size 6x6
no bracing
fastener type: galvanized screws
Footer depth 30"
Min. PSF
Dead Live PSF 40
Dead Deck PSF 10
Concrete piers
Souther pine
Joist Size 2x8
Beam size 2x8
Post size 6x6
no bracing
fastener type: galvanized screws
#16
Member
Thread Starter
also, if I go from 2x8 beams to 2x12 beams, the site recalculates from 6 to 5 pier and post on the right 32' side of the home. Is it worth doing that?
#17
In your drawing, those posts are needed next to the house because they support beams. You can only get rid of the posts if the beams sit on the exterior wall and are restrained with lateral load devices. I mentioned, if you use a ledger on each side to eliminate the posts next to the house, you still need 1 or 2 beams at the corner (depending on how you want to frame it), your joists need to be perpendicular to your ledgers, and those beams need to sit on the exterior wall and be restrained in the same manner.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
in previous example, can those posts circled in orange be removed if the posts circled in red are re-positioned?
how about in this configuration:
joists 2x8
beams 2x12
posts 6x6
southern pine
seems like there should be ability to back off post&pier circled in orange away from the home some
how about in this configuration:
joists 2x8
beams 2x12
posts 6x6
southern pine
seems like there should be ability to back off post&pier circled in orange away from the home some
#19
Member
Thread Starter
i think i got my answer for beam cantilever:https://www.deckmagazine.com/design-...he-2015-code_o
I believe I can move the pier and post 2.5 feet away from the home with a 10' beam
I believe I can move the pier and post 2.5 feet away from the home with a 10' beam