5-6 years ago I hired someone to repair the parge coat on my exterior porch/steps that was badly cracked and falling off. I also had some serious pitting in some of the entrance steps, and I asked for advice on fixing the steps but didn't include it in the parge job (so I thought).
Bottom line - part of the parge coat was great, but another part was a different shade of grey and started cracking not long after. But worst of all, I came home to find that he used the second batch of concrete to 'butter' the tops of the entrance steps, complete with some concrete oozing over the edge. OMG!! :-(
So now 5+ years later, how to fix this. It seems my choices are completely rebuild or coat over it. It's been really hard to find someone who will do such a small re-coating job. The contractor I found last Fall wanted originally to resurface the stoop and steps with grey "Crete recap material" . He called me today to say that he's found this great Sherwin Williams product called "H&C Colortop Water-Based Concrete Stain" that he wants to use instead, because he can color match the "grout" in the red-brick-walled raised bed that abuts the stoop.
He's never used the product before but says he's going to put some on his driveway this weekend. It sounds to me like he wants to experiment with my porch. He has no idea how durable this new-to-him product is, he just seems very excited that I can pick a color.
Advice please? I primarily want what will be durable thru hot Maryland summers in full sun, and somewhat icy/snowy winters. What's the best choice - Quikcrete, H&C Color stain, something else? Thanks much!
I like H&C concrete stain although it won't hide differences in the stucco texture. The color will be consistent but you will see the texture difference.
Thanks for replying. I think I'm ok with the texture coming through as long as it won't flake off in a year or two. I've read that some companies are marketing acrylic coatings as stain, but those coatings peel and flake somewhat quickly as opposed to bonding with the concrete.. I don't know enough to tell the difference.
I've used a lot of the H&C solvent based stain, mostly on garage floors. Depending on traffic it will wear away but I've never had any peel. ..... and all you need to do to recoat is clean it.
The water based H&C is more popular today and I hear good things about it but I've never used any. Most any quality latex stain ought to bond well with the concrete if it's clean [including cleaning residue]
I have a gap underneath my concrete steps where water is pooling and leaking through cracks in my basement foundations during heavy downpours or when we have had a large amount of snow. I plan on getting the steps replaced and the foundation cracks fixed by Crack-X but as a stop-gap was thinking of putting some form of gravel or other material to help stop the water pooling.
Any recommendations on what I could use to temporarily fill the gap? Thanks.
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Hi everyone. Looking at Table 2: Maximum Joist Spans and Overhangs in DCA6, it shows that, for Southern Pine, wider joist spacing allows for a larger overhang. Take the first row (2x6 joist) as an example.
For 12" joist spacing, allowable overhang is 1' - 0"
For 16" joist spacing, allowable overhang is 1' - 1"
For 24" joist spacing, allowable overhang is 1' - 3"
There is a similar trend with different overhangs for 2x8 joists.
For 2X10, it's totally different:
12" spacing, 3' - 1" overhang
16" spacing, 3' - 5" overhang
24" spacing, 2' - 10" overhang
For 2x12:
12" spacing, 4' - 6" overhang
16" spacing, 4' - 2" overhang
24" spacing, 3' - 4" overhang
Before I looked at the values, I was expecting that closer joist spacing would always yield larger allowable overhangs. But the opposite is true for 2x6 and 2x8 joists. For 2x10, the biggest overhang is with the intermediate 16" spacing. And finally 2x12 makes sense to me...wider spacing means less overhang.
Why would closer spacing mean a smaller allowable overhang for some joists and not for others?
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