I’m rebuilding my deck, I’ve decided to use decking tiles for easier maintenance, cleaner look, design
My question is; can I use treated fence boards instead of thicker decking boards as a base to hold the interlocking deck tiles?
I’m trying to cut cost but is this saving worth it or even an option?
any advice? Thanks
Ok I guess I’ll get deck boards!!!
I kinda knew the answer, was hoping I could cut a few corners
thanjs for responding
why you ask; cause cost was too high lol
What are decking tiles?
Most PT fence boards are too thin to be used to walk on, even if you put the joists closer together.
Cost is the reason my deck has PT pine and not composite.
btw - welcome to the forums!
Cutting corners on a deck is only going to cost you more in the long run. Quality materials will last much longer, think composite, and be cheaper in the long run with time and money!
Also keep in mind that deck construction is governed by your local building codes. I have never seen "fence boards" as an approved material or used in deck construction so I doubt it would meet code. At the minimum it might cause you some trouble with getting approval.
Thanks for welcome 🤗
decking tiles are composite tiles that interlock to each other, they create an inexpensive floor option, I got them a few years ago, just tired of keeping up with treated wood maintenance, they’re actually quite nice, they come in wood also, easy to clean and maintain, no I’m not a deck tile salesperson lol
I understand fence boards are thinner and not appropriate for flooring, wear and tear, weight appropriate etc. but my thought is using the fence boards to close off top of deck frame to be able to lay the interlocking deck tiles on, so now I have an inexpensive treated base, topped with tiles to create a solid floor!
is this wrong?
kinda hard to explain my idea, maybe I’ll just stick to 5/4 boards
Thank you to the person who posted the link, the surface of the tiles is raised so that water can flow through as to not cause moisture buildup
they are made to be placed on flat surfaces, on wood, cement etc
I’ve had these for two years now, on my existing deck, with no problems
my original question before we all went on different directions was
- the tiles are 1/2 inch thick
- Raised to allow water flow
is a fence board ok to use as a covering (base) on a deck frame?
so I can place the tiles on it
This time I looked, there are no technical requirements given for the surface(s) they are installed on so you have to default to the requirements of that surface. Being a deck, fence boards are not sufficient to provide support so the answer is no!
Thank you all for your advice
I will take your advice and proceed with proper deck thickness required
this was quite an interesting process
I appreciate all your input, I’m a painter by trade able to do handy stuff but no deck expert so thank you all for steering me in the right direction.
Hi everyone. Looking at Table 2: Maximum Joist Spans and Overhangs in DCA6, it shows that, for Southern Pine, wider joist spacing allows for a larger overhang. Take the first row (2x6 joist) as an example.
For 12" joist spacing, allowable overhang is 1' - 0"
For 16" joist spacing, allowable overhang is 1' - 1"
For 24" joist spacing, allowable overhang is 1' - 3"
There is a similar trend with different overhangs for 2x8 joists.
For 2X10, it's totally different:
12" spacing, 3' - 1" overhang
16" spacing, 3' - 5" overhang
24" spacing, 2' - 10" overhang
For 2x12:
12" spacing, 4' - 6" overhang
16" spacing, 4' - 2" overhang
24" spacing, 3' - 4" overhang
Before I looked at the values, I was expecting that closer joist spacing would always yield larger allowable overhangs. But the opposite is true for 2x6 and 2x8 joists. For 2x10, the biggest overhang is with the intermediate 16" spacing. And finally 2x12 makes sense to me...wider spacing means less overhang.
Why would closer spacing mean a smaller allowable overhang for some joists and not for others?
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