I have a deck which is 36 long and needing to attach the ledge board to the house which is on concrete blocks 4 feet high. The ledger board is 2ea 2x10 sister together, The ledger board is supported by piers 6 feet apart on the deck side. What size bolts, the width and length of the ledger board on the side underneath the house and spacing of the bolts?
Your description may be clear to you, but we need a photo to ensure we understand the construction and your description. In the meantime, download the DCA6 Prescriptive Deck Guide and follow it's instructions for your project. If you have additional questions just ask.
Attached is a picture. I will be using 2x8's on 16" centers and use hurricane hangers to attach to 2x10 sistered together and attached to the house. Composite decking will be placed on top for termite protection since it is close to the sand. Also Termix protection. The sand is about 2-3 deep. Has a slope so I will take out a couple of bricks to aid in the drainage. Open to all suggestions. I did a search for the DCA6 but it did not find anything.....https://www.flickr.com/photos/771598...posted-public/.....
Last edited by PJmax; 02-17-23 at 06:53 PM.
Reason: add pic from link
What exactly is the ledger bolting to, can't tell from the photo. Wood? Concrete block? The bolts will be located 2" from the top and bottom of the ledger. And what's the point of doubling your ledger?
Hey all,
I'm currently in the process of renovating the yard. We already had turf removed but I need to excavate more as I have plans to install a flagstone patio (probably somewhere around 150-200ft worth) and surround it with a crushed rock pathway. I'm also considering supplementing the drainage somehow (either with a french drain or dry river bed) to improve the drainage in the yard. I started out hand-digging with my son to excavate but it's pretty overwhelming - so far we've just pushed the excavated dirt up against the side of the short retaining wall. We also have old roots from a couple ficus tree that we were battling. I set some stakes up in the yard and so far got the rough grade of one portion - I think it's about 1-2% where we're at that we need to roughly follow. The goal is to create an open space for the kids to run around/play but also that we can use as an outdoor dining/lounging area with a firepit. I plan to plant shrubs (lemonade berry mostly) as a hedge either towards or at the base of the berm I've built up.
Here are some pics:
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BWv0NXUVVJPFK8Upm_82LQrj9G0p52j_rBnGCHN0M1EbXBfvo-t7FXUNtEo6cxad8DSia5V4owM9PnyukSn7eSIVyd7CgzkU77vgc9q3U1Hjv8avMlkb9rH474ikfAn8onUYI-JZjggu60BT7KfA4gog=w1050-h651-no?authuser=0[/img]
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8Buy4Tno6uHWTCEr2FOsRELTIuWrWKGYV2Dchy4cM-NDHNLOmGP3Z1c8_aMlC_gPFrXZAFts3qWhSnQiNHAM-YWV2NzMwrpL-582RLxVoEMSU8g4XrtO5jGdudBZkiuHRf0sk8KqasY2R_-XuCWf8BT5Q=w3414-h1447-no?authuser=0[/img]
Looking for some advice and pointers for the following:
1) I'm considering renting a Bobcat MT100 to finish excavating, grading the yard appropriately, and then using it to backfill with material (roadbase, crushed rock etc). Wondering if we can also use the MT100 to tear out the remaining roots/stump from the two ficus trees we had removed. The main reason why a skid steer is because I can't get any large equipment back there. A mini excavator seems like it would come with a steeper learning curve (and potential to cause more damage) as well, so kind of avoiding that. I just want to use something relatively manageable and easy to learn since I'd be operating it. Is the MT100 going to help get the job done?
2) I'm looking at excavating 4" more from where we were at (roughly 2" down from the concrete patio portion level) so that I can lay down roughly 4" of roadbase at least for the flagstone area. For the bordering crushed rock path/area, I think I don't need to excavate that deep and can maybe excavate just 2-3" down for that path (we aren't driving cars on this) - Will this be sufficient? I was considering use roadbase as a base layer for both the flagstone patio and the crushed rock path/areas too - is this the best base to be using? For the crushed rock path, I'm looking for something that can compact together easily and form a semi-solid path (so not DG but maybe like 3/8" rock and particularly the kind that isn't smooth or rounded?). The flagstones we have from another area of our front yard which I would repurpose for the flagstone patio area.
3) I'm considering adding a french drain,m dry creek bed or swale bordering the "berm" of dirt I've built up against the retaining wall. If not there then perhaps between the path and the flagstone area. I think we'll end up with a lot more dirt than I can push up against the retaining wall so will need to figure out how to reallocate all of it. If I add a dry creek bed or french drain at the base of the berm though, that might not give us much room to plant either. Would it be best to have this drainage feature between the walkway and flagstone patio then? If a french drain, I would plan to tie it in with the existing drainage line (which currently runs parallel and right next to the concrete area) in one or two places. I was thinking to use perforated triple wall for the french drain and all connections to the existing line. I'm not sure if I need to be too worried about how deep any of this would be laying btw but the existing drains are about 8-9" from the top of the concrete line - if I have a french drain close to the berm or walkway, I'd imagine the pipe is going to be exposed as it may come up into where the level of the roadbase (or whatever base I use) is.
If I were to do a dry creek bed or swale, I would probably just wrap it around and end it at one of the drains (or consider replacing one surface area drain with a catch basin perhaps). It seems like a swale might be most cost-efficient since it would involve the least amount of materials but not sure if it would redirect the water as effectively as either a drain or dry creek bed.
4) There's another connected area of the yard (side alley) where we need to figure out a solution for drainage: [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AWmOC4QmR3XVxOt8U63clCNGVBir1Qf9oufld2hpC3nz8Z6cVZ_Tr5EfgBZ_Ndrow1n15fKH3GjhvaqhT4dxTjufk3w18AmTMMWtINPFq_1IOoZebi_kYLTY_gSgrzNgj1PfF5I_ApoFu5IVi9xpd-2A=w1290-h1719-no?authuser=0[/img]
NOTE: the surface drain pictured here does *not* connect to a drain that runs along this strip - this surface area drain is for the main portion of the yard and is the 'start' of the drainage run for the main drainage line.
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8ASkS_Hxa0Ox1iPREHRKOnE-_q7IdDrpDKY4wwnvU78ln8APwY-TJiBvlqvu8zO1UPWwFKG24X23vPnx4H_t4iuodN3bXrtCGOaJd0uzXO1s0oaAYZIu6EAipFB2uJ5x9WSag1QKxEE41rZDkko4lkdPQ=w2292-h1719-no?authuser=0[/img]
The "planter strip" on the side is roughly 3-4" deep today and there's a small surface drain at the very far end/corner. The elevation here is pretty poor and the surface drain there is already sitting relatively high (it exits to a curb cut on the street) so we can't add a ton of elevation here if we want to reuse the existing drain (which is preferred, since you can't really lower the curb cut as that is set in place). I was planning to just pour in some river rocks in the strip and call it a day. Not sure if I need to excavate more out though, lay fabric, add a section of drainage, etc in addition.
It's a big project for sure and I've gotten some quotes/bids on pieces of it but I've already spent a ton of money (and overpaid) different contractors to do the initial demo work. At this point I really would like to just DIY the rest if I can. I figure if I have to haul dirt away though, I'll probably need to pay someone to do so unless I can figure out other creative uses (or find neighbors who will take it)Read More
We have docks with wooden Walers. I need to enlarge the existing 3/4" holes to 1-3/8" to accommodate some new recessed nylon nuts. I figured I could use a step bit. I've used a spade bit in the past but it does produce a very nicely rounded and centered hole as it can jump around: I'm enlarging these holes as the boards are still attached to the dock so I'm leaning over the dock and drill horizontally.
Does anyone have any tips or recommendations or is a step bit the way to go? I need to get to a depth of about 1-1/2" so I'd prefer to only have the 1-3/8" width stop at that depth so I can not enlarge the inner Waler hole beyond the current 3/4" hole.Read More
02-17-23, 12:28 PM
