Paver at the edge of a step

I have a concrete paver driveway installed in the fall of 2023, and now am considering extending the driveway using the same pavers to a walkway, a patio area, a curved around planting border and some steps because some of these areas are not at the same elevation.

With our driveway, the installer excavated the area, put down some gravel base, compacted, then sand, compacted, then laid down the pavers, along the edges they mixed up some concrete and made a triangle edge restraint which prevents the pavers from shifting out of position.

How does the edge restraint work if you are at the edge of a step down? For example, if you look at the sketch below, you can install a brick vertically as the front of the step, but the pavers on top is not restrained, so is there some sort of hidden mechanism underneath to prevent these bricks from shifting out over time?



In addition, I noticed many sample paver installation when they get to the edge of a step or a wall, they used a totally different brick that is similar to swimming pool coping bricks because it's finished on the top and sides. My regular driveway pavers are only finished on top (texture wise) because the side has several veins to help to provide some small gaps for drainage (see picture below). Is this correct you must use a different style brick for the last course next to a step where the edges of the brick are visible?

 

Pretty much just like when you have steps constructed of paver/wall stone material (like the picture) you would use a concrete adhesive between the steps to help keep them in place.

And to second question, the "bumps" are not for drainage per say, they maintain the gap between the pavers, similar to some tile, and it's not necessary to use a different paver. Most of the time they have edging or grass next to them to cover the edge.

 

I don't like to use paver blocks for stairs. Most are too small to be stable long term and I don't like relying on glue to hold them in place. I use "landing" blocks. They are big blocks intended for making steps. The last I used are 6' long x 18" x 6". I first install the landing step then install the pavers up to it.

 

I guess I am still not following. In a typical installation, like a driveway, the installer used a concrete restraint like the image below as the weight or a vehicle along the edge can push the pavers apart.



But if the edge is a step down to another area of the same pavers, the higher pavers along the edge is not covered by anything so the side of the pavers are exposed. Not only do they have the ridges, they also do not have the texture of the top side.

The confusion I have is how is the edge row on the step stay in place if there isn't any kind of restraint. I have a hard time believing all it is some kind of adhesive.

 

"I don't like to use paver blocks for stairs. Most are too small to be stable long term and I don't like relying on glue to hold them in place. I use "landing" blocks. They are big blocks intended for making steps. The last I used are 6' long x 18" x 6". I first install the landing step then install the pavers up to it."

If you use a larger block then does the weight of the larger block is what holds the blocks in place?

So in the picture below each step will need a different kind of block at the edge?



But if the edge of the step is not a straight line but curved, the smaller pavers are easier without the need to cut the large blocks into curves.

 

If you have the proper base, it's compacted correctly, then the weight, very much like how a house or deck is constructed, the weight is transferred downward to the foundation, not outward.

I have walls and steps, all constructed with wall pavers, they are all installed with proper footings and use nothing more than concrete adhesive. Nothing has fallen over in the 15 years they have been sitting on the ground.

 

Yes, in your picture you see how each step is composed of only two, large blocks.

In the second picture it appears the steps are mortared together. That is a very different method of construction than dry stacking paver blocks and would require a footer below the frost line.

In your second picture the blocks in the corners were cut. See how the same block is used in the straight and curved areas. Then note that the grout joint is the same width everywhere. They cut the blocks in the corner to have a slight pie shape to make the curve.

 

I think that is theoretically correct but not practical. There are all kinds of environmental factors, and probably some of it regional and locale specific. Down here in south Florida we are required for at least 4-6 inches of compacted road base, then a layer of sand, then the pavers. Often times when you lay down the pavers you are already a few inches above grade, At the edge the bottom of the paver blocks are either at grade or a few inches above grade. Once the paver sand are swept in and compacted, they either use concrete or plastic restraint along the edges.

Of course, over time, weeds grow between the joints, not because they germinate from below, but because seeds are dropped from above, sometimes into the joints. Vehicles driving over the edge row will exert downward force on the pavers and will cause them to shift, sometimes even with the concrete restraints. This is very evident from most of the shifts I saw are the curves on driveway aprons where cars makes turns and sometimes even drive half on half off the edge row. If all these are due to improper installation then most of the installs down here are improper.

I spoke to a paver install company who did commercial installations like at banks and malls, and he told me on those jobs where they may have moving trucks and containers, they do a concrete block edging. They will excavate from edge to edge for the road base, but right outside the road base they excavate another 6" and place 16X8X8 concrete blocks along the edge, such that the finish elevation is 2" below the paver's top surface. The blocks have the cell open to the top, then they pound rebars into each cell deep into the ground, then they grout fill the cells. This makes a retaining wall of sorts along the edges. Then the road base and sand installed, paver blocks are at least 3-1/4" thick for commercial, and once placed will be 2" above the top of the blocks. Then they finish the edge with concrete triangle edging. In this case the pavers are being held in place by two rows of concrete block with rebars pinning them down, It is an interesting idea but in the case of a stair step won't work.

 

It seems looking at all the examples, the edge of a step is best to be a different stone. Perhaps a larger piece to better stay in place, but also with a finished edge like a bullnose trim in a tile installation. I kept trying to find a way to use the same blocks I use in the "field" for a more uniform look, even considered grinding out the ridges on the edges.

I also found a wall system by Belgards, they mentioned a pinning system to keep walls in place, but I can't find much more information. I will try and call them to see if this wall system may be applicable to my case.

It's funny because last week I was kind of thinking may be gravity is all it takes to hold the steps together. Then on Wednesday we had what the city engineer called a 1000 year rain event, we had 26" of rain in less than six hours. The streets were flooded and I had 20" of flood water inside my garage. Cars floated away all over, and I saw many collapsed retaining walls as I drove around the neighborhood.