Tiled Shower With Glass Block Window Question..

Old 08-18-02, 08:24 PM
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Question Tiled Shower With Glass Block Window Question..

I am finishing my basement and am currently working on the bathroom which will contain a shower stall, toilet and sink. The floor is currently poured concrete. All of the sewage plumbing is in place. Sorry for all of the "wordy" explanation here, just want to make sure you understand what I am doing.

My plan is to tile the floor and shower stall (directly on the concrete floor) and possibly all of the walls in the room. My question is about the shower. I am planning on building walls for the shower stall and tiling the whole thing, including the floor.

I have a book that shows a diagram of how to handle the floor of the shower stall, which includes pouring concrete and putting a plastic basin in the concrete. Is this necessary? The size of my shower will not be a standard size, where would i purchase a basin? Can i use plastic sheeting instead? Ideas?

The other question I have is about the shower stall too. I am not using a door/curtain for the shower. The shower is big enough that water will stay inside. I am however reducing the size of the entrance to the shower by building a 5 ft wall with a glass block window in it. Half of the entrance would be this wall and the other half would have a 5 inch lip to keep any stray water for going out into the bathroom. Both the wall and lip will be tiled.

So here is the question. I am going to build a standard 2x4 wall that will have the concrete-sheetrock stuff. The glass blocks are 3" deep. Once I sheetrock both sides of the wall, the wall will be considerably thicker then the blocks. How do I finish the edge of the sheet rock where it meets the glass block window opening?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks
Old 08-19-02, 05:40 PM
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Tiled Shower with Glass Block Window


I have included a good site that shows the installation of 40 mil CPE pan liner. You can use a 40 mil PVC but CPE works better and lays flat, less curling. PLEASE NOTE: The pictures show metal lathe up the walls. This is not necessary if you are using Wonderboard (Durock) for your wall tile backer. Ensure pan liner is at least 8 inches up the wall. This will be placed behind your backer. DO NOT NAIL ANYTHING BELOW THE 8 INCH LINE INTO THE LINER. What is not shown is the motar added to make the final floor pitch towards the drain. Note: You can make the slope before you install the liner or after, the floor drain is accommodating to either. Home Depot sells the Oatey shower drain to accommodate the liner.


With regards to your glass block, 3" glass block width is unusual but no problem. My suggestion is this, the glass block should be FLUSH WITH THE FINISHED SURFACE OF THE CERAMIC TILE WITHIN THE SHOWER. This is a debatable issue so bear with me.
If you go flush with the finished edge of the glass block, your cuts required with the ceramic tile will be hidden and protected by the grout border you will have. Since the glass block channel is caulked prior to installed the block, you have a good seal against water infiltration. This method is the easiest.

Now, some say, keep the glass block flush with the substrate and then use cap tile to form a nice looking edge. This will create problems in other areas such as corners and where will the cut edges be seen. This can be done but you really have to figure out your layout to perform this one. This method will make for a tile edge within the shower and thus an areas that must be cleaned regularily.

Since you should be usng a channel with your glass block, you will have an exposed edge on the exterior of the shower walls. This can be finished in different ways. Easiest is to apply drywall, install dywall corners and tape. The drywall will hide the channel edge and with some paintable caulk look great when done. You could trim it out with wood and match your vanity or other ideas that appeal to you.

Hope this helped!

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