5foot bathtub
#1
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5foot bathtub
made a mistake...
wanted to put 5ft tub across the width of bathroom...
problem is, i framed the width of the bathroom to be 5'1". didn't know the tub get's nailed to studs!.....mistakenly accounted for 1/2" cement board on each side....
how do i fix this? do i have to reframe? really don't want to...
please help?
thanks
wanted to put 5ft tub across the width of bathroom...
problem is, i framed the width of the bathroom to be 5'1". didn't know the tub get's nailed to studs!.....mistakenly accounted for 1/2" cement board on each side....

how do i fix this? do i have to reframe? really don't want to...
please help?
thanks
#2
I had the same problem in an old bathroom. I added another inch at the end of the tub. Two sheets of sheetrock would work. Put it from the floor to the ceiling. I extended it a couple inches from past the tub. It has looked pretty normal in our old house for at least 15 years.
#3
I recently had a similar situation in a renov. I did. The existing framed opening was 1/2" wider than the required R.O. for the new tub/shower combination. I just ripped narrow strips of 1/2" plywood I had left over from another project. I nailed these to the wall studs as furring strips, bringing the opening to the proper size. You could do this to the walls of either ends of your tub to take up the 1" overage you have. The only down side to this approach is if you have a window or door in either of these walls. that would require you to build jamb extensions to properly trim out the window/door.
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thanks for the responses..
we're going to tile. so, we'll probably use 1/2" cement board on each side to take up the slack.
nail/screw tub to cement board. put flashing over tub flange...only issue i think of is that we will then tile on top of that portion of flashing...
can you tile on top of the flashing?
thanks
we're going to tile. so, we'll probably use 1/2" cement board on each side to take up the slack.
nail/screw tub to cement board. put flashing over tub flange...only issue i think of is that we will then tile on top of that portion of flashing...
can you tile on top of the flashing?
thanks
#5
I am not sure what you are referring to as 'flashing'. In my experience, flashing is the thin galvanized tin which is used where roofing meets vertical walls, and other exterior water shedding applications such as around windows and doors.
If your tile backerboard is under the tub flange, then it would seem you will have an uneven surface and the last course of tile could not lay flat. I think that you need to shim the backerboard out to where it can lay over the nailing flange, giving you a uniform surface over which to install the tile.
If your tile backerboard is under the tub flange, then it would seem you will have an uneven surface and the last course of tile could not lay flat. I think that you need to shim the backerboard out to where it can lay over the nailing flange, giving you a uniform surface over which to install the tile.
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reply thiggy
thanks thiggy..
hmmm....okay so i guess this is what we'll do.
1) use cement/backer board from floor to the height of the tub flange to take up 1/2" slack.
2) nail tub into the cement board for support.
3) the next piece of cement board will have to be shimmed, like you said, by a small amount and mounted over the tub flange...
does this sound right?
hmmm....okay so i guess this is what we'll do.
1) use cement/backer board from floor to the height of the tub flange to take up 1/2" slack.
2) nail tub into the cement board for support.
3) the next piece of cement board will have to be shimmed, like you said, by a small amount and mounted over the tub flange...
does this sound right?
#7
I think you have the idea. The main thing is to have a uniformly flat substrate to adhere the tile to. Good luck! By the way, a great source for expert advice about tile work is found at John Bridge's tile forum. Take a look here: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php