new tub, also adding ceramic tile, help!(long)


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Old 02-08-03, 04:01 PM
S
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new tub, also adding ceramic tile, help!(long)

DIY'ers

Got a couple questions for you educated and knowledgable ones. I got an inkling to redo my bathroom so I ripped out the tub and plastic surround today. Here's where I stand.. The floor underneath the tub is made up of 1 x 6's set diagonally across the floor joists. Some sit a little higher or lower than others but not much. The tub was sitting on these. I thought there should have been a 3/4" plywood underlayment over the 1 x 6's but there isn't. The tub I took out was standard size steel tub. I also cut out the drywall about 10" up around the tub cuz of rot. Yes, there was only drywall behind the plastic surround(one of those 3 piece things). So....the questions...

1. Do I need to replace those 1 x 6's? There is no rot, just a litte unlevelness..

2. Should I put down a 3/4" plywood floor OVER the 1 X 6's? (forgot to mention rest of bathroom does have 3/4" plywood over the 1x's)

3. I want to tile around the tub. What kind of and how thick of a cementboard should I put up? I know of cement board and hardibacker board but I know there are many names for this stuff. Also, can I put the new cement/hardi board(whichever one I should use) direclty over the existing drywall, or should I cut all the drywall out and use ONLY the cement/hardi board? It would be no problem to go this route, I want to do it right.

4. The tub also sits on an outside wall. There is this foil paper type stuff I'm assuming is a moisture barrier. I messed some of it up taking out the tub...what should I replace it with?? I don't have insulation between my walls as my WHOLE house is made up concrete block......yeah, it sucks Makes running wire and everything else a pain in the you know what on the outside walls.

5. Last question for now. The old tub was 14" deep. The new one will be 19" deep. The tub sits over four joists of which 2 are doubled up. The joists are 2 X 8's. I have no idea what code is so if anyone knows feel free. I don't know what type of wood as I can't find a sticker or stamp anywhere.. house was built in late 40's......

Thanks......

Ron
 
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Old 02-08-03, 10:20 PM
S
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Ok man, 13 or so people have seen the post, I need some advice here!! Don't be afraid!! You can do(type) it!!!



Ron
 
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Old 02-09-03, 04:38 AM
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I'm going to keep replying to my own post till someone decides to answer me. I've thought of a couple more questions. I'm looking to get an American Standard tub w/jets. It runs about $300 at H/D;Lowes. I was just wondering if there is a reason I shouldn't get this tub, or if there are better ones out there for the same price. Hmm...only one question....I'll be back with more I'm sure!!
 
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Old 02-27-03, 03:18 PM
sugarbeth
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I'm not an expert, but I'll answer

. Do I need to replace those 1 x 6's? There is no rot, just a litte unlevelness..

You should level them out, so that the tub is on a sound, level surface.

2. Should I put down a 3/4" plywood floor OVER the 1 X 6's? (forgot to mention rest of bathroom does have 3/4" plywood over the 1x's)

Yes, and this is how you can take care of the unevenness, with shims under this subfloor.

3. I want to tile around the tub. What kind of and how thick of a cementboard should I put up? I know of cement board and hardibacker board but I know there are many names for this stuff. Also, can I put the new cement/hardi board(whichever one I should use) direclty over the existing drywall, or should I cut all the drywall out and use ONLY the cement/hardi board? It would be no problem to go this route, I want to do it right.

We're using 1/2" cementboard, because that will fit nicely with the 1/2" greenboard that we're putting on the walls beyond the tub. We ripped out the drywall and will put the cement board on the studs.

4. The tub also sits on an outside wall. There is this foil paper type stuff I'm assuming is a moisture barrier. I messed some of it up taking out the tub...what should I replace it with?? I don't have insulation between my walls as my WHOLE house is made up concrete block......yeah, it sucks Makes running wire and everything else a pain in the you know what on the outside walls.

They say to use tarpaper for a moisture barrier around a tub which will be tiled. We, however, will likely use thick plastic sheeting because we have a ton of that lying around.

5. Last question for now. The old tub was 14" deep. The new one will be 19" deep. The tub sits over four joists of which 2 are doubled up. The joists are 2 X 8's. I have no idea what code is so if anyone knows feel free. I don't know what type of wood as I can't find a sticker or stamp anywhere.. house was built in late 40's......

That sounds pretty sturdy to me. We got a deeper tub as well, and we doubled the joists.

For your latest question: we actually decided against a tub with jets. If your tub will be used for showering primarily, then you might want to rethink the jet thing, since it is more of a pain to clean those tubs.
 
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Old 02-28-03, 03:41 AM
L
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OK STUB, your subfloor.

First, since the house is over 50 years old and those 2X8's have managed to last this long, they are fine. Since you going to a larger tub, it wouldn't hurt to sister another 2X8 onto the 2 single joists under the tub.

What to use for a subfloor will be determined by the height of the finished floor at the doorway into the bathroom. Tell us the height from the top of the floor joists to the top of the finished floor at the doorway, and what you will be using for flooring in the bathroom, THEN we can determine what will or won't work for a subfloor.

On the block wall, hang felt paper on the wall, then 1/2" Wonderboard (Durarock, etc.). No need to add a layer of sheetrock there. Assuming that the tub has a stud wall at each end, mount the same 1/2" cement board directly on the studs. Now, the reveal around the top of the tub will be the same all the way around, and you will be able to match the 1/2" sheetrock on the rest of the walls to it.

Waiting for your reply, AND your next questions.
 
 

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