Drain waste layout, ?s

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Old 05-06-03, 02:28 PM
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Drain waste layout, ?s

2 questions:

1. can I tie a 2" laundry tub drain (w/P trap) into the main stack 16" above the floor with out a vent?

2. See picture from link below. Basement layout, all pipes below grade and within 3 feet of main line. Does my layout look ok?

http://www.tc.umn.edu/~orour010/swr.gif[/IMG]
 
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Old 05-07-03, 03:30 AM
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drain

I'm not an expert, but I'm right in the middle of a big bathroom project and I've gotten lots of advice from people who know a lot more than me. They all say that you don't add ANYTHING without a vent. However, in my old house, I did add a washing machine drain(1 1/2") directly into a 3" waste line and had no problem for 11 years. There is a device that you can add in place of a vent. I don't know what it is called ( something..."200" ) which is a short piece that has some sort of relief valve built into it and it can vent directly into the basement or between walls. I guess it allows air to enter the system when water begins to drain, but shuts when it stops so you don't get the smell of sewer gas backing up. Hope I could help. Good Luck.
 
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Old 05-07-03, 06:42 AM
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Cool

It's called an air admittance valve. Here a site on the best-known brand (Studor): http://www.studor.com/
They are installed after traps, just like a vent in place of vents.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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Old 05-07-03, 08:41 AM
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I am planning on using an air admittance valve--see diagram from picture link (Oatey AAV: http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/in...t_Brochure.pdf)



***Am I the only one who has trouble with the posting of links and pictures here??


As for the "no vent" situation, what about the "critical distance" concept, or has that been forgotten about?

pat (link below to diagram, cut it and paste it)
http://www.tc.umn.edu/~orour010/swr.gif
 
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Old 05-07-03, 09:11 AM
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Cool

Your critical distance will be served with an air admittance valve right after the trap.
Mike
P.S. Hackers have caused some things to be turned off here.
 
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Old 05-15-03, 08:04 AM
mjt454
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A couple more points on air admittance valves, IF you are concerning yourself with the plumbing code in your area. Air admittance valves are not code approved in all areas, and not all brands are approved for use in areas that do allow them. Commonly, if an air admittance valve can be used, it must be a Studor Valve (about $25), and not the Oatey (about $5).
 
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Old 05-15-03, 08:53 AM
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AAV

MJT,

Oatey is manufacturing a true air admittance valve, not just the "cheater" air inlet valve for $5 you are refering to. The Oatey Sure Vent AAV is approx. $20 at select Menards in the upper midwest.

For more info, check out this link:

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/sh...tg=14&subctg=0
 
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