vanity


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Old 03-26-05, 09:27 AM
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vanity

I seem to have a little problem. I put a 48 inch vanity with full overlay draws into a 48 inch space.The problem is when I try pull the draws out on the one side they hit the moulding on the entrance doorway to the bath room. Is there anyway to over come this problem.Thanks for the help.
 
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Old 03-26-05, 10:02 AM
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joe4h,

Sometimes a simple cabinet filler is used - this is matched to the cabinet and can be used to keep that end out from the corner. These can be in sizes of 1 inch, 2 inch, etc.

One thing to keep in mind, is that this would make the counter edge to be flush on the other end of the cabinet. However it will avoid hitting the casing. It is better than cutting the casing to allow for this.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 03-26-05, 11:56 AM
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48" vanity into a 48" space. sounds like you can't move it. I am assuming by space you mean hole that is 48" wide. What are the drawerfronts made of wood, formica, rtf, melamine. Is there a profile on the edges. Is there a faceframe or are they frameless. Are there cabinet doors next to the drawers If they are frameless and you can't move the vanity over your pretty much out of luck unless your are able to make the drawerfronts inset. Face frame wouldn't be as dificult as frameless but probbly not be worth it.
 
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Old 03-26-05, 03:33 PM
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joneq,

May I inquire, what does all that you mentioned have anything to do with the drawers hitting the door casing? You are assuming one thing and I another.

We shall allow joe4h to inform more on what is what before evoking on major altering methods you appear to be suggesting.

A 1 inch filler added to the vanity base would resolve that problem simply and easily. I am assuming that the existing countertop has a 3/4" - 1" overhang.

Unless there is another issue that prevents that from happening, i.e. ceramic tiled floor that butts up to cabinet base, drain or water supply lines within cabinet that might interfere with drawers, etc. then this filler would resolve that issue.
 
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Old 03-26-05, 04:53 PM
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"I seem to have a little problem. I put a 48 inch vanity with full overlay draws into a 48 inch space."

where would he put the filler strip. As far as I can tell there is no room to move the vanity. I may be wrong but your firsyt reply would require moving the vanity.Or am I missing something. I wish joe4h would check in. Maybe I give too much credit to people but it seems to me that even if he didn't know about filler strips he would move the vanity over if he could and leave a space so at least he could open the drawers
 
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Old 03-26-05, 04:56 PM
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joneq,

Me too, it would clear up any misunderstanding of what is there. We'll wait and see. I might be misunderstanding as well.

Thanks
 
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Old 03-26-05, 04:58 PM
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I see you reread his post doug
 
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Old 03-26-05, 05:04 PM
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Joneq,

Apology given - "into" a 48" space". Missed it.

Seems that rework is in order.

Sorry
 
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Old 03-26-05, 06:12 PM
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One reason that I asked the questions I did was that if certain conditions are favorable it may be posible to use a bottom mount slide that would allow the drawer to be slid over 1/2 " if the drawer now uses side mount slides that usually have 1/2" clearance on both sides. Of course the moulding would have to cooperate.

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...rawer%20slides
 
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Old 03-26-05, 06:16 PM
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Joneq,

Good point!
 
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Old 03-26-05, 08:51 PM
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I wonder if the drawer front can be repositioned. I have the feeling that since there is a full overlay drawerfront things will be close together. I was thinking that if everything has to remain as is, the drawer front could be unscrewed from the drawer box and reattached but the screw hole could be made into a slot the width of the moulding+ a little bit and as you opened the drawer you would slide the front away from the moulding. This would work better if the pulls had 2 screws so that the drawer front would be kept level. The drawer would always stop where it is supposed to since you are only elongating it in 1 direction. I think a teflon washer + a little silicone spray would help to make the drawer front slide easily especially if there is a slippery surface on the back of the front of the drawer box itself. Maybe something could be added.

One other option would be to have df [drawer front from now on] open as a door with like a piano hinge or similar attached to the side of the box and the back of the df, not permanently attached to the front of the box at all. It could be pulled back by a spring attached to the other side of the box and the drawer front or a door magnet could hold it. I would hot melt the hinge on, get it right and then screw it when Iliked it.
 

Last edited by joneq; 03-26-05 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 03-27-05, 12:54 PM
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vanity

I don't have any room for a filler, the only thing I can think of is to take the door jam out cut 1/2 inch off the jam all the way around on the other side push the door forward and cut 1/2 inch out of sheetrock the width of the moulding . thanks
 
 

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