Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms
Reload this Page >

Looking for input on tiling countertop and backsplash

Looking for input on tiling countertop and backsplash


  #1  
Old 08-10-05, 08:06 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 176
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Looking for input on tiling countertop and backsplash

I want to tile both my countertop and backsplash. I was hoping there were some people on here who could give some insight as to what to watch out for, such as whether I should do the backsplash or the countertop first, if I can use the same adhesive on both, what kind of backer to use on the wall, etc etc.
 
  #2  
Old 08-10-05, 08:26 AM
N
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 47
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
never done a countertop, but I have done a backsplash. I'm pretty sure any mortar/mastic would work for either one. I'd definitely make sure you seal the tile, as you don't want water getting in there.

Make sure you screw down some sort of underlayment/concrete board first.
 
  #3  
Old 08-10-05, 09:17 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 176
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yeah, I'm definitely putting some type of concrete board under the backsplash. Any idea what I should get for that? Also, I want to out a waterproof membrane on both the backsplash and the counter top, should I just use regular roofing paper? Also, if I do put that down, and then tile over it, won't the movement of the paper underneath affect the tiles?
 
  #4  
Old 08-10-05, 06:15 PM
Tileguybob's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Grove, NJ
Posts: 909
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Tile the counter first then the backsplash. Unless the backsplash gets hit with a lot of water you can use sheetrock back there.

What kind of tile is going on the countertop? You will need at least one sheet of 3/4" BCX plywood and a 1/4" cement board for ceramic, for stone you will need two layers of 3/4" BCX and the cement board. No tar paper, use a paint on waterproof membrane like Redgard sold at HD.

If you want more info post back and I'll give you all the particulars, just tell me what kind of tile, ceramic or stone?
 
  #5  
Old 08-10-05, 06:54 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 176
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your help. It's going to be ceramic tile (the standard 4X4). Right now there is a laminate countertop that I am taking out. I'd like to try to have the new tile countertop at least close to the same height as the countertop is now so I don't have to hassle too much with adjusting the sink pipes. I have some experience tiling and I also have a few books on the subject. Am I ok to use 1/4" cement board on the backsplash instead of the sheetrock? I'm just figuring it's by the sink and I'd rather use something that's a little more water resistant. I'll definitely go with that paint-on membrane if you think it works ok. I'm making a trip to HD tomorrow so I'm trying to get a list of everything I need.
 
  #6  
Old 08-11-05, 05:46 PM
Tileguybob's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Grove, NJ
Posts: 909
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
For the backsplash you can use regular sheetrock or cement board but it has to be 1/2" thick, the 1/4" is too flexible on a wall.

If you are using the 4x4 ceramic tile then on the countertop you can use one layer of 3/4" with a 1/4" cement board on top. Still need to set the cement board in thinset and use waterproofing around the edge of the sink cutout and anywhere else that water can get into and cause the plywood to delaminate.

Leave a 1/8" gap between the bottom of the backsplash tile and the tiles on the countertop and fill this with caulk made in the same color as the grout. Walls, especially outside walls experience seasonal movement and movement due to wind beffeting. the joint will flex and if there is caulk it will move, if there is grout in that joint you will see a crack in about 2 weeks or less.
 
  #7  
Old 08-12-05, 07:34 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 176
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ok, thanks for the suggestions. The wall fortunately is not an outside wall, but obviously I will still caulk the joint. When you say to set the countertop cement board in thinset, do you mean just put a layer of thinset adhesive over the plywood and lay the cement board right on top of it?
 
  #8  
Old 08-12-05, 08:33 PM
Tileguybob's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Grove, NJ
Posts: 909
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, use a 1/4" square notched trowel to comb the thinset. This is done to fill out any voids between the cement board and the plywood which if left untreated could cause the cement board to flex. the problem is the tile wont flex along with it, they crack or come loose instead. Use 1 & 1/4" galvanized roofing nails to set the cement board spread every 6 to 8" apart.
 
  #9  
Old 08-13-05, 06:39 AM
T
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 245
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
This is helpful info-thanks!

While you guys are talking about this, I have a similar question as this is a project I'll be doing soon. I have new, unfinished oak cabinets that I'm slowly getting finished. Soon, I'll be tearing out all my cabinets and will likely tear out what's behind them all the way to the studs. I need to decide what to cover the wall with behind the cabinets, and what order to do things in. I'll be putting in the pecan-stained oak cabinets, a pre-fab, 8' charcoal laminate counter (Noir), a new dishwasher, and some type of tile for the backsplash--most likely 4 x 4 ceramic. It is an interior wall.

*Should I use plywood or drywall to cover the entire wall?

*Sounds like I need 1/2" cement board (Redgard behind it)-- should it come down to the top of the base cabinets (behind the 4" built-in backsplash)?

*Should I start the tile 1/8" above the backsplash, or go behind it?

*Should I tile before putting in counter, or visa-versa?

*Would 12" x 12" marble tiles look cheesy? I'm thinking something light in color to contrast the dark counter.
 
  #10  
Old 08-13-05, 07:36 PM
Tileguybob's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Grove, NJ
Posts: 909
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
1.) Use 1/2" drywall on the wall for the backsplash tile

2.) put the drywall up first, then install the cabinetry

3.) Put the countertop in first then set the first row of tile on the backsplash 1/8" off the countertop. Fill the gap with caulk made in the same color as the grout. Most major grout manufacturers have this now.

4.) marble would be acceptable to use. How it looks next to the countertop is your call.
 
  #11  
Old 08-13-05, 08:22 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 245
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
1.) Use 1/2" drywall on the wall for the backsplash tile
Do I need to use cement board over the drywall?
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-05, 06:12 PM
Tileguybob's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Grove, NJ
Posts: 909
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Tininindy,
No, just 1/2" drywall will be fine for the backsplash, unless you have a situation where water will constantly be sprayed onto that wall, like taking a shower, then go with the cement board. You can use the cement board if you have it rather than going out to buy drywall.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: