shower pan/cement board question


  #1  
Old 01-08-07, 09:59 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Indiana (formerly Massachusetts)
Posts: 318
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
shower pan/cement board question

hi

i had a major shower leak (1st floor) and i tore out all the old tile/greeen board. i left the neo-angle PVC pan.

a few questions (any answers to any/all of these is greatly appreciated):

1. should i replace the pan with a new one? (i can't see any visible leaking from the pan, i think it was just the tile above it that leaked, but i am not sure)

2. is there a way to water test the pan to see if it is leaking? i thought about going in the crawl space below and cutting the PVC waste line and capping it, then filling the pan with water and watch it for a few days. or maybe i could just plug the drain?

3. the curb is where the shower leaked the most. it was (2) 2x6 boards stood on its side sandwiched with 1/2 plywood in between. then, the tile was installed over the wood. i think this is why the leak started, tile on wood doesn't sound like a good idea.

so, i was going to to build a mini-stud wall the height of the curb and try to plan the height to equal on full tile so that there are less grout lines. does that sound better than the 2x6's.

okay, enough questions. any answers?
 
  #2  
Old 01-08-07, 11:54 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 11 Upvotes on 10 Posts
If your framing members are adjacent to the neo base, the the application of cbu over the framing will bring the edge over the lip of the base, thereby allowing water to shed into the pan, rather than leaking behind it. What I usually do is use lattice (1/4"x1 1/2" slats) to fir out the framing so everything is flush with the shower base. That way when you apply your cbu, it will fit inside your pan, and you can tile from bottom to top, or wherever you intend to stop the tile.
Anything on wood in a wet area is a disaster waiting to happen.
 
  #3  
Old 01-08-07, 12:15 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Indiana (formerly Massachusetts)
Posts: 318
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
thanks. i like the idea of the lattice. i did realize that the lip of the pan stood proud of the framing studs and that was going to cause the cbu flare out a little at the bottom.

i thought i might try to score off a little off the back side of the cbu to get it to sit flush.

however, what do you think about the sides of the pan that don't have a lip? should i just set the cbu flush with the pan and maybe put some caulking under the cbu????
 
  #4  
Old 01-08-07, 06:06 PM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,281
Received 9 Upvotes on 9 Posts
This pan should have a 3 sided glass enclosure. It will be difficult as you have already seen to make those joints waterproof.
 
  #5  
Old 01-09-07, 03:25 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 11 Upvotes on 10 Posts
But the door/window glass isn't against a wall. I think the OP is worried about the wall contact areas. Maybe I was missing something.
 
  #6  
Old 01-09-07, 06:20 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,281
Received 9 Upvotes on 9 Posts
Larry

See his other thread on this.

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=289971
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: