Removing fiberglass shower walls, leaving base
#1
12-29-07, 12:28 PM
Removing fiberglass shower walls, leaving base
Plan to rip out 3-piece fiberglass shower wall and replace with tile. Would like to leave base in place for an easier remodel. Any problems with this idea? Suggestions? Comments? Cheers? Jeers?
#2
12-29-07, 09:49 PM
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tx152,
By "base" do you mean the bottom or the stuff behind the walls?
I just completed a Christmas-time bathroom remodel, and ripped out my three panel shower and replaced it with ceramic and slate tile. And I added a new fiberglass tub. I may be able to offer some advise.
Weather or not you can use your substrate behind the shower inserts depends on what it is. I had drywall behind the plastic shower inserts; which is not a good surface for tile. I added a product called Wonderboard over the drywall. You can get this stuff (or similar) at Home Depot for about 10 bucks a sheet: 1/2" thick, and 30" by 60". Make sure you secure this stuff properly, it's not difficult or expensive to do. It is a little heavy though.
I'd also go with bigger tile...12" by 12" is nice. Smaller tile means more grout lines to maintain.
By "base" do you mean the bottom or the stuff behind the walls?
I just completed a Christmas-time bathroom remodel, and ripped out my three panel shower and replaced it with ceramic and slate tile. And I added a new fiberglass tub. I may be able to offer some advise.
Weather or not you can use your substrate behind the shower inserts depends on what it is. I had drywall behind the plastic shower inserts; which is not a good surface for tile. I added a product called Wonderboard over the drywall. You can get this stuff (or similar) at Home Depot for about 10 bucks a sheet: 1/2" thick, and 30" by 60". Make sure you secure this stuff properly, it's not difficult or expensive to do. It is a little heavy though.
I'd also go with bigger tile...12" by 12" is nice. Smaller tile means more grout lines to maintain.
#3
12-30-07, 04:04 AM
The walls I assume are not attached to the base, thereby being a three piece unit. You can rip them off the wall, but as Justin said, you may have to replace the substrate, which I bet is sheetrock. Even if it is greenboard, you will want to remove it and install a vapor barrier and cbu to attach your new tile to. If the base is in good shape, certainly there is no need to trash it in a remodel. Just make sure you like it, as installing the tile will make it more permanent.
#4
12-30-07, 07:28 AM
Thanx
Thanks a bunch for the responses.
It's actually a 4-piece including base. And yes, I was going to rip out the sheetrock and prep accordingly. Just wanted to make sure the base of a 4-piece unit would work as well as one you might buy as a standalone. Basically, I didn't know if there was any difference in a base you would use with fiberglass walls and one you'd use with tile. And yes, it's in good shape. House is only 2 years old. Thanx again.
It's actually a 4-piece including base. And yes, I was going to rip out the sheetrock and prep accordingly. Just wanted to make sure the base of a 4-piece unit would work as well as one you might buy as a standalone. Basically, I didn't know if there was any difference in a base you would use with fiberglass walls and one you'd use with tile. And yes, it's in good shape. House is only 2 years old. Thanx again.
#5
12-30-07, 10:42 AM
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The base you have probably has provisions for the side walls. Something like a channel, or something else molded into the it that the walls secure to. That's the main difference between your base, and one you'd buy that was not intended for sidewalls.
If the base is functional, and you like it, use it. But like Chandler said make sure you like it, cause with tile in, it becomes a pain in the butt to change. Now is the time to make a change if you chose to do so.
If the base is functional, and you like it, use it. But like Chandler said make sure you like it, cause with tile in, it becomes a pain in the butt to change. Now is the time to make a change if you chose to do so.
#6
12-30-07, 12:56 PM
Most likely your shower base will have a lip where the sidewalls rested. Once you remove the surround walls and the sheetrock this lip may stand proud of the studs. If you don't adjust for that, the bottom of the tiled wall will bow out the thickness of the lip.
If you have this situation, your best option is to cut furring shims the same thickness as the base lip and attach them to the studs. This will allow you to extend the backer board and tile past the top of the lip for a dryer joint.
If you have this situation, your best option is to cut furring shims the same thickness as the base lip and attach them to the studs. This will allow you to extend the backer board and tile past the top of the lip for a dryer joint.
