Sink Plumbing Question


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Old 02-14-08, 11:29 AM
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Sink Plumbing Question

I replaced bathroom vanity and sink. The drain of the sink does not line up exactly with the old piping (surprise surprise).

I have 1.25 inch from the sink drain OUT. Down from the sink i have to go down an additional 7 inches down (the sink came with a pipe that goes down a few inches). So again I need to go down 7 inches and over 2 inches.

I run to HD tonight and get some pipe (it's plastic by the way) and they have a flexible piece. I get the flex stuff as well as more just in case. Well the flexible stuff works well but it's pulling a little bit. If i add any straight pipe and then use the flex stuff it's actually too tight - best fit would be the flex stuff and about 1 inch of additional pipe and that's just to tight to do.

So, if you are familier with the plastic piping you know it's connected with a slip joint and washer - at the slip joints i have a bit of a pull - can I glue this? If so, what kind of glue? I'd want to be able to replace or whatever w/o cutting in the future (say i need to get to the P-trap). Anyone think if i just caulk around the slip joints it would be strong enough to hold??

Everything work fines now - I'm just imagining a month from now when a kid or a wife goes to get a towel out of the vanity they may smack or even hold onto the drain piping just enough to pull it apart.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 02-14-08, 12:23 PM
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Can the pipe into the wall be pulled outward a little, looks like that would fix it.
 
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Old 02-14-08, 12:26 PM
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Drain

Your photo seems to be rotated 90 degrees.

Do not glue the slip joints. If someone drops a valuable piece of jewelery into the drain, you will want to disconnect it quickly! Tighten the slip nuts with lock joint pliers and you should be fine. (Be sure to use the sealing washers in the joints.)
 
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Old 02-14-08, 12:29 PM
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in response to bud:

as it is now now - it's only in there about 3/4 inch and it actually did leak a bit. i do have extra pipe and can make that piece longer - about an inch longer would be ideal and i'll most likely do this.

but i'd also like to sure up the connections - the slip joints are not really that tight - obviously i guess if you have 2 inches of overlap you do not have an issue but mine are stretched a bit. . . would just be nice to glue them.

i'll prob do just as you suggested and caulk the outside of them to get them to stick a bit more. then i can scrape the caulk of if i need to.

i have a few young kids and my fear is that they go into the vanity and grabe the drain pipes for balance as they grab a towel.

thanks for the reply i appreciate it.
 
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Old 02-14-08, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Wirepuller38
Your photo seems to be rotated 90 degrees.

Do not glue the slip joints. If someone drops a valuable piece of jewelery into the drain, you will want to disconnect it quickly! Tighten the slip nuts with lock joint pliers and you should be fine. (Be sure to use the sealing washers in the joints.)
sorry yes it is rotated as the camera was set for 16:9 and the best wazy to capture was to take it sideways!!

i did only tighten the slip joints by hand but it was pretty easy to pull them apart - i mean way to easy. i do have the washers in them. does it matter how tight they are - if so then does the tightness then expand the washer to fit better? as i mess around it didn't seem to matter how tight they were. maybe i'm incorrect.
 
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Old 02-15-08, 01:10 PM
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what do you think of this style vanity sink

these bathroom sinks have really got my eye

Has anyone installed a steam shower before?

 
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Old 02-15-08, 01:15 PM
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You can't glue the pre-made undersink piping. They aren't pvc plastic (maybe polyethylene?), so they don't get glued.

I would have used a straight extension off the bottom of the sink as well as a an extension from the wall. Then adjust all your elbows/traps and cut any piece to length.
 
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Old 02-17-08, 08:09 PM
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RE:

"Everything work fines now - I'm just imagining a month from now when a kid or a wife goes to get a towel out of the vanity they may smack or even hold onto the drain piping just enough to pull it apart."


Don't keep towels down there


haha, but seriously...

The flex line is a bad idea, it is a place for hair and other dirty things to get caught and cause a clog. From the picture, it appears that you could solve your problem with a 6" extention at the wall. If that doesn't pull you over enough to be under the strainer with the trap, you can buy a 22.5 or 45 degree coupling for the 1.5" drain pipe.
 
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Old 02-17-08, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianSNew
but seriously... The flex line is a bad idea, it is a place for hair and other dirty things to get caught and cause a clog. From the picture, it appears that you could solve your problem with a 6" extension at the wall. If that doesn't pull you over enough to be under the strainer with the trap, you can buy a 22.5 or 45 degree coupling for the 1.5" drain pipe.
FWIW, all of the various types of flexible corrugated tailpieces violate UPC section 701.2: "Drainage fittings shall be of cast iron, malleable iron, lead, brass, copper, ABS, PVC, vitrified clay, or other approved materials having a smooth interior waterway of the same diameter as the piping served..." and there is a similar provision in the IRC.

I realize that every Big Box home improvement store sells them, along with a lot of other stuff (such as female threaded PVC fittings) that become a code violation the instant you install them, but I have yet to encounter an AHJ that approves them - we call them out every time we see then at home inspections, often someone says "But they sell them at Home Depot", but once they start making calls no one has ever been able to find a building code official who says they are allowed.
 

Last edited by Michael Thomas; 02-18-08 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 02-18-08, 07:21 AM
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Yes I would extend the pipe coming out of the wall and turn the trap to match up. get rid of the flex. I purchase seals at Ace Hardware that are some type of rubber, blue in color. They grip better. I have used them on sinks with disposals that vibrate the pipes loose and it fixes the problem. Of course the pipes should extend far enough into the socket.
 
 

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