Bathroom Walls
#1
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Bathroom Walls
My bathroom walls had wallpaper on one half and wainscotting on the other. We are remodelling and when the wainscotting was removed there is tin tile that is adhered to what seems to be a cement board, which is over the top of drywall? I don't really want to rip off all of the walls but instead would like to remove the tin tiles and the adhesive (which is rock hard by the way!). Can someone please let me know if this is possible. We would like to use "Venetian Plaster" over the top of the walls (they seem to be really smooth on the top half of the wall which is why I am confused as to how it could be masonite board. The wallpaper covered the top half of the walls.) Thanks for any help!
#2
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I remember those tin tiles. I think they were set in thinset just like ceramic tiles. I don't know what you would find behind the thinset/mortar but I'd expect it would need to be tore out and atleast the bottom part drywalled.
#3
The tin-tiles should have been set with old fashion petroleum based organic type adhesive. Thinset would cause corrosion. The adhesive would by now be as hard as a rock. If you remove the panels at the same time you remove the tile this may be the path of least resistance. There should be no Masonite anywhere in the future of the walls, it's a bad deal. If there is Masonite there now, remove it.
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Some of the tiles have popped off when I removed the wainscotting but the majority of them are still on. I'm not quite sure what kind of material is behind. When looked from the side it looks like half drywall and half cement board of some type. The total thickness is 3/4" though. Is it possible just to remove the adhesive and "venetian plaster" over all of this? On the top half of the wall we had no problem patching holes. Please help! Thanks!
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it is all the same thickness. It looks as though the wall was installed and then the tin tile with the adhesive right to the wall. Then at a later date it was covered in wainscotting. I think If I remove the adhesive the wall will be flat (with the exception of a few holes in the wall from nails, wall anchors, etc.).
Also, the shower area will have all of the drywall/cement board ripped up. When I transition from new CBU to the old wall will I need to do it over a stud or can they meet between? I will be tiling over the newly installed cbu and "venetian plastering" over the old wall. I hope this all makes sense. Thanks.
Also, the shower area will have all of the drywall/cement board ripped up. When I transition from new CBU to the old wall will I need to do it over a stud or can they meet between? I will be tiling over the newly installed cbu and "venetian plastering" over the old wall. I hope this all makes sense. Thanks.
#10
I don't watch those shows! I guess they must have made at least one sale, huh?
So.....what is it? Old fashion "Spatter-and-drag" I'll bet.
So.....what is it? Old fashion "Spatter-and-drag" I'll bet.
#11
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Hey Bud dont laugh but I had to look it up too. I never heard of it either.
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=164756
Looks like some texturing stuff you can buy in a can.
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=164756
Looks like some texturing stuff you can buy in a can.
#15
OIC!
New one to me. The product that is.....not the technique.
People have been doing that type of coating for years. Let me give you guys a hint. Don't waste your money on that crap with the venetian name on it. Go buy your self a five gallon bucket of "drywall joint compound" and use that. It'll cost a lot lot less and it's going to be the same product without the fancy name. Trust me!
There's enough rules with this website as it is, please don't start policing everyones comments, leave that up to the Moderators.
New one to me. The product that is.....not the technique.
People have been doing that type of coating for years. Let me give you guys a hint. Don't waste your money on that crap with the venetian name on it. Go buy your self a five gallon bucket of "drywall joint compound" and use that. It'll cost a lot lot less and it's going to be the same product without the fancy name. Trust me!
There's enough rules with this website as it is, please don't start policing everyones comments, leave that up to the Moderators.
#16
Okay, I see I've wasted my quick wit and clever sense of humor on this thread.
You obviously have forgotten what the response was to an earlier thread, and did not applaud my devious endeavor.
I am, of course, devastated. and shall sulk inconsolably for days.
Or not
You obviously have forgotten what the response was to an earlier thread, and did not applaud my devious endeavor.
I am, of course, devastated. and shall sulk inconsolably for days.
Or not
#18
Good morning. Bengal!
Locate the stud...(do you have a studfinder?) Wall studs should be about 16" on center.
If you want to check that you are actually in the wood, you can drill a test hole. (If sawdust comes out, you're good.)
Is it safe to assume there is no plumbing or electrical in this wall? Better look in the attic first, before you drill.
Once you've located the stud, you'll need to score the cement board. Is it the old fashioned gravelly kind? You may just want to use a hammer and chisel, since it is only half a wall.
The pry off the offending cement board.
Locate the stud...(do you have a studfinder?) Wall studs should be about 16" on center.
If you want to check that you are actually in the wood, you can drill a test hole. (If sawdust comes out, you're good.)
Is it safe to assume there is no plumbing or electrical in this wall? Better look in the attic first, before you drill.
Once you've located the stud, you'll need to score the cement board. Is it the old fashioned gravelly kind? You may just want to use a hammer and chisel, since it is only half a wall.
The pry off the offending cement board.
#19
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Thanks Connie. I am a new homeowner and am doing my first bathroom project and have lots of questions. The cement board is the old fashioned gravely kind and it looks like it was attached over old drywall. The total thickness is 3/4". I am considering just ripping all of the walls off but leaving the ceiling since it is in great condition. Have you ever seen this done before? How difficult is it to transition new drywall to old textured ceiling drywall? Thanks.
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I moved the plumbing around a little for the shower since we want it wider for tiling. The shower will be all tile and then will transition to drywall for painting or venetian plastering. Everything will be in the same place (toilet, sink, shower) but the shower is going to be a kerdi shower instead of a plastic insert. The tin tile on the lower half of the walls can be popped off easy but the adhesive is difficult to remove. I am trying to determine the least painful coarse of action
#25
I think I may be the worst person to ask for this...I LOVE demo!
I'm just kidding- ask yourself, is it worth the money (drywall is pretty cheap) to spend that much time to salvage that drywall?
I almost always take everything back to the studs...so much you may not know or might be able to do once the studs are bare. Have any mold problems? Need some added insulation? Want to add some new lighting?
I'm just kidding- ask yourself, is it worth the money (drywall is pretty cheap) to spend that much time to salvage that drywall?
I almost always take everything back to the studs...so much you may not know or might be able to do once the studs are bare. Have any mold problems? Need some added insulation? Want to add some new lighting?
#26
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I think that may be the easiest way to go also. What if I don't want to remove the ceiling? Should I just fasten a new layer of drywall to it, or try to transition the new drywall to the ceiling (if that can be done)?
#27
It shouldn't be any problem with the ceiling. You may have to run a couple of screws through to the joist above, if the ceiling is resting on the walls.
If you're concerned you can't match the texture where ceiling meets wall, you could always add trim- not necessarily crown mold, just accent trim- wide enough to conceal the edge that doesn't have texture.
I'm gone...its 63 degrees and I'm ready to see if my lawnmower is interested in getting out of the dark shed after 4 months!
I'll check back this evening when I get in. Feel free to start a new thread.
If you're concerned you can't match the texture where ceiling meets wall, you could always add trim- not necessarily crown mold, just accent trim- wide enough to conceal the edge that doesn't have texture.
I'm gone...its 63 degrees and I'm ready to see if my lawnmower is interested in getting out of the dark shed after 4 months!
I'll check back this evening when I get in. Feel free to start a new thread.
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I ended up ripping about half of the walls off last night. I decided I would like to leave the ceiling. The walls have about 6" left on them until it meets the ceiling. I am going to try to use a chissel to remove the rest and then will either try to match the texture or put up molding.
#29
Use a utility knife to deeply cut the ceiling/wall juncture before you try to remove the wallboard at the ceiling. Cut deeply into the juncture and the corners.
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I don't think a utility knife will cut through the top layer (which seems to be 3/8" cement board of some type over 3/8" of drywall). The walls were rock hard when I was removing them Any other ideas?
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Thought I would update you. I just finished ripping off everything on the walls. It took me forever since the walls were covered with drywall and then looked like they had morter spread across them. Also adding to the time it took me was that there was wire mesh where the walls met the ceiling and in every inside corner. I ended up using a chisel to crack the morter (or whatever it was) and then pounded it with a hammer until most of it fell off. Then I had to scrape away the rest of the morter with chisel end of a crow bar so that I could bend the wire mesh to cut it with shears. Needless to say it took me longer than I thought to complete, but I am happy to say that the only thing left to do is to clean up the dust.