Toe kick not wide enough?
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA
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Toe kick not wide enough?
two questions I have, as I'm in the middle of installing stock cabinets:
1. My floor certainly isn't square, so as a result had to use a good number of shims on the front end of the cabinets. As a result, there's a 1/4" gap along the bottom of my cabinets vs floor.
My question is- my toe kick is only 4" wide, so if i am supposed to butt this all way down to the floor, it will leave a 1/4 space aboive the toe kick plate, underneath the cabinet face..this area is nnot visible if you're at the cabinet, but from a distance, a little. Is that okay? or move it up a little bit to allow some space betwen the toe kick and floor?
2. My baseboard is at least 5" wide in the rest of the house..so at the end of a cabinet run, should I just run the baseboard up to the toekick corner? I could bypass doing that, but there's an unsightly black gap at the bottom on that side where its visible from a eating area. Despite being a little wider than the toekick plate, I think adding the baseboard on that side is a nice finishing touch?
Thanks
1. My floor certainly isn't square, so as a result had to use a good number of shims on the front end of the cabinets. As a result, there's a 1/4" gap along the bottom of my cabinets vs floor.
My question is- my toe kick is only 4" wide, so if i am supposed to butt this all way down to the floor, it will leave a 1/4 space aboive the toe kick plate, underneath the cabinet face..this area is nnot visible if you're at the cabinet, but from a distance, a little. Is that okay? or move it up a little bit to allow some space betwen the toe kick and floor?
2. My baseboard is at least 5" wide in the rest of the house..so at the end of a cabinet run, should I just run the baseboard up to the toekick corner? I could bypass doing that, but there's an unsightly black gap at the bottom on that side where its visible from a eating area. Despite being a little wider than the toekick plate, I think adding the baseboard on that side is a nice finishing touch?
Thanks
#2
Ahhhh, decisions, decisions..... there is no "right way" to fix your issue... simply "your way"... You could use trim molding, either at the top or bottom or your toekick to hide the problem (which is noticeable today, but in two weeks you'll never see that it's there).....
Not sure what the issue is with your baseboard molding... Typically, wall baseboard stops at the cabinet. Not sure how the toekick comes into play in this instance.... though if I read your post properly, you want to run your baseboard along the side of your cabinet - and ending at the start of the toekick.... Again... it's a question of "your way"... Were it mine, and I wanted to do what you're doing... I'd miter a skinny slice of 45degree trim and make a "finished end" to the baseboard as it meets the toekick...
Not sure what the issue is with your baseboard molding... Typically, wall baseboard stops at the cabinet. Not sure how the toekick comes into play in this instance.... though if I read your post properly, you want to run your baseboard along the side of your cabinet - and ending at the start of the toekick.... Again... it's a question of "your way"... Were it mine, and I wanted to do what you're doing... I'd miter a skinny slice of 45degree trim and make a "finished end" to the baseboard as it meets the toekick...
#3
Member
Unfortunately the overpriced toekick trim provided by cabinet manufacturers don't always allow for the irregularities of real life floors.
If your floor is so out of level that the provided toekicks don't cover the gap entirely you have a several options. You can use a piece of trim molding to cover the gap. A base shoe will cover the gap. Or you can buy additional stock of an adequate width and finish it to match. Or you can call the cabinet manufacturer and ask them for custom sized toekick (what I did).
IIWM and I were doing it again I would probably put the gap at the top and ignore it or use a piece of matching trim at the top.
If your floor is so out of level that the provided toekicks don't cover the gap entirely you have a several options. You can use a piece of trim molding to cover the gap. A base shoe will cover the gap. Or you can buy additional stock of an adequate width and finish it to match. Or you can call the cabinet manufacturer and ask them for custom sized toekick (what I did).
IIWM and I were doing it again I would probably put the gap at the top and ignore it or use a piece of matching trim at the top.