Tub surround preparation
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Tub surround preparation
Hello experts:
I am a novice. I would like to self-install a tub surround. My bathroom had signs of mold and deterioration of tiles at the tub line. I removed all the tiles and all the drywall to give myself a clean slate.
Question 1: Will waterRESISTANT greenboard suffice (as opposed to waterPROOF cement board)? It will ultimately be covered by the tub surround.
Question 2: Is it detrimental to use those smaller pre-cut drywall pieces rather than full sheets? Inability to haul and transport supplies is a big factor.
Thanks in advance.
I am a novice. I would like to self-install a tub surround. My bathroom had signs of mold and deterioration of tiles at the tub line. I removed all the tiles and all the drywall to give myself a clean slate.
Question 1: Will waterRESISTANT greenboard suffice (as opposed to waterPROOF cement board)? It will ultimately be covered by the tub surround.
Question 2: Is it detrimental to use those smaller pre-cut drywall pieces rather than full sheets? Inability to haul and transport supplies is a big factor.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Hi!
Is this a tub/shower combo? If so, greenboard is not allowed per code. I would use a cement board (Hardiebacker) with a 6 mil poly plastic sheathing stabled against the studs. You may have to shim out the studs so the backerboard sits over the tub flange flush.
Hardiebacker comes in 3'x5' sheets, so it should fit ok into a van or SUV.
If this is just a tub, without shower, you can use drywall if you'd like. You probably will not be able to use those small precut pieces because you won't have enough studs to fasten them too.
Is this a tub/shower combo? If so, greenboard is not allowed per code. I would use a cement board (Hardiebacker) with a 6 mil poly plastic sheathing stabled against the studs. You may have to shim out the studs so the backerboard sits over the tub flange flush.
Hardiebacker comes in 3'x5' sheets, so it should fit ok into a van or SUV.
If this is just a tub, without shower, you can use drywall if you'd like. You probably will not be able to use those small precut pieces because you won't have enough studs to fasten them too.
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Tub surround preparation - plastic sheathing
Thank you HotinOKC
Yes it is a tub/shower combo so I will definitely go with the Hardibacker. Re: the plastic sheathing - How is it affixed to the studs? Need it be in a single continuous piece?
Any and all information is greatly appreciated.
mseon
Yes it is a tub/shower combo so I will definitely go with the Hardibacker. Re: the plastic sheathing - How is it affixed to the studs? Need it be in a single continuous piece?
Any and all information is greatly appreciated.
mseon
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I am using the 6 mil plastic and I am doing something I saw on the DIY and each wall is getting a sheet of plastic and I will be over lapping the corners around to the next stud using staples.
Hope that helps...
Hope that helps...
#5
Remember, you only need the sheathing on the tub/shower walls, not the rest. You can skip the plastic if you use RedGard (You paint it on the board).
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Thanks to you both
After browsing the board further I see that the necessity for a vapor barrier is directly related to the presence or absence of insulation.
All my tub/shower walls are interior and there is no insulation in any of them. That tells me I can use Redgard instead.
However, while I have the walls open - is the absence of insulation in interior walls a shortcoming? I would like to ignore it but . . . what's correct?
After browsing the board further I see that the necessity for a vapor barrier is directly related to the presence or absence of insulation.
All my tub/shower walls are interior and there is no insulation in any of them. That tells me I can use Redgard instead.
However, while I have the walls open - is the absence of insulation in interior walls a shortcoming? I would like to ignore it but . . . what's correct?
#7
Technically, you don't need insulation in the walls if they are interior walls. You only use insulaton for walls that are unconditioned on the other side, like a garage, or the outdoors. You can install unfaced insulation for sound deadening properties if you'd like, but not required.
You can use Redgard or 6mil poly with or without wall insulation.
You can use Redgard or 6mil poly with or without wall insulation.
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After browsing the board further I see that the necessity for a vapor barrier is directly related to the presence or absence of insulation.
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Irreparable mistakes?
I think I'm in trouble. I have installed the vapor barrier and hardibacker. Two things:
1. I learned after-the-fact that the barrier should have been sealed to the tub before hanging the hardibacker. It isn't sealed. I also trimmed the barrier around the perimeter of the hardibacker and am now wondering if I should have left some overlap. The hardibacker sits out from the surrounding wall (as did the previous drywall) and it occurs to me that the surrounding wall (where it meets the hardibacker) needs some protection. ???
2. I re-read the hardibacker paperwork and realize that our studs are smaller than required. (2 1/2 x 1 1/2 in a house built in 1960) Will extra nails save me? Hardibacker is certainly a LOT heavier than the stuff that was there before.
I'm beginning to panic. Sure hope this is salvagable.
Thanks in advance.
1. I learned after-the-fact that the barrier should have been sealed to the tub before hanging the hardibacker. It isn't sealed. I also trimmed the barrier around the perimeter of the hardibacker and am now wondering if I should have left some overlap. The hardibacker sits out from the surrounding wall (as did the previous drywall) and it occurs to me that the surrounding wall (where it meets the hardibacker) needs some protection. ???
2. I re-read the hardibacker paperwork and realize that our studs are smaller than required. (2 1/2 x 1 1/2 in a house built in 1960) Will extra nails save me? Hardibacker is certainly a LOT heavier than the stuff that was there before.
I'm beginning to panic. Sure hope this is salvagable.
Thanks in advance.