shower


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Old 08-11-10, 05:15 AM
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shower

I have just finished screwing up the durock sheets in my new shower with a vapor barrier,
My first question is -- Is there a special filler to use to fill the seams, like I would use spackle for the sheet rock.
My second question is-- how do I start to install the new tile in the shower. Please remember that all the walls are not perfectly level.
My third question is -- I have a concrete floor in this room which is in the basement, It is not a very level floor. but there is no sharp highs or lows, can I tile over the floor the way it is.

Thank You for any help you can give me
Bob :confused
 
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Old 08-11-10, 07:05 AM
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Is there a special filler to use to fill the seams, like I would use spackle for the sheet rock.
Yes, use the same thinset that you use to set the tile to mud the seams. You need to tape the seams as well. The tape used is a special alkali resistant mesh tape. You can find it in the big box stores in the same place you find the cement board.

how do I start to install the new tile in the shower. Please remember that all the walls are not perfectly level.
Ideally, you would handle any out of plumb/level issues before you install the cement board by adding/scabbing additional studs, shimming etc. Its difficult to adjust for out of plumb with thinset on a vertical surface when setting tile. You could try screading some thinset in the low areas prior to installing the tile. Thinset doesnt screed well so be patient and do the best you can. Your best bet would be to unscrew the cement board, correct the framing and then reinstall the board.

I have a concrete floor in this room which is in the basement, It is not a very level floor. but there is no sharp highs or lows, can I tile over the floor the way it is.
Maximum variation in the slab is 1/4" in 10'. You can check for this with a long straight edge and a ruler. If you are within that you should be ok. If not, you'll need to use a portland cement based leveling compound or patching compound first.
 
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Old 08-11-10, 01:27 PM
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Uh, did I miss something or was there already a discussion of laying a pitched shower floor at 1/4" per foot?

Joe P.
 
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Old 08-12-10, 06:16 AM
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Hi Joe

I don't think you missed anything. My assumption was that bob was talking about the floor outside the shower, but maybe not, so good catch. Bob if you need info about the shower floor, let us know.
 
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Old 08-12-10, 10:04 AM
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confused

Originally Posted by HeresJohnny
Yes, use the same thinset that you use to set the tile to mud the seams. You need to tape the seams as well. The tape used is a special alkali resistant mesh tape. You can find it in the big box stores in the same place you find the cement board.



Ideally, you would handle any out of plumb/level issues before you install the cement board by adding/scabbing additional studs, shimming etc. Its difficult to adjust for out of plumb with thinset on a vertical surface when setting tile. You could try screading some thinset in the low areas prior to installing the tile. Thinset doesnt screed well so be patient and do the best you can. Your best bet would be to unscrew the cement board, correct the framing and then reinstall the board.



Maximum variation in the slab is 1/4" in 10'. You can check for this with a long straight edge and a ruler. If you are within that you should be ok. If not, you'll need to use a portland cement based leveling compound or patching compound first.
Thanks John for the help.
I have another question--- what type of corner bead do I use for the Durock, they have 1-metal or 2- vinyl or 3- paper.
Bob
 
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Old 08-12-10, 10:19 AM
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Normally, no corner bead is required. What exactly will you be doing that you need corner bead?
 
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Old 08-12-10, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by HeresJohnny
Normally, no corner bead is required. What exactly will you be doing that you need corner bead?
When the shower wall comes out to the edge were the shower door will go I have the corners to smoth over and shape them up
Bob
 
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Old 08-12-10, 11:20 AM
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Bob are you talking about an outside corner where the cement board in the shower will meet the drywall outside the shower.
 
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Old 08-12-10, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HeresJohnny
Bob are you talking about an outside corner where the cement board in the shower will meet the drywall outside the shower.
Yes I am, Which corner bead do I use.
Bob
 
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Old 08-12-10, 02:22 PM
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Bob

Dont use any cornerbead there. The cornerbead will cause the tile to bow out and it wont look good. Use the same alkali resitant mesh tape over the outside corner joint, and mud the corner with thinset on the shower/durock side. Leave the other side by the sheetrock hanging. Then set your bullnose tile vertically up the wall inside the shower and grout. When you are done with the tile, you'll have a straight edge (the bullnose tile) to use as a guide to mud the drywall side with drywall mud/joint compound.
 
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Old 08-12-10, 06:49 PM
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confused

Originally Posted by HeresJohnny
Bob

Dont use any cornerbead there. The cornerbead will cause the tile to bow out and it wont look good. Use the same alkali resitant mesh tape over the outside corner joint, and mud the corner with thinset on the shower/durock side. Leave the other side by the sheetrock hanging. Then set your bullnose tile vertically up the wall inside the shower and grout. When you are done with the tile, you'll have a straight edge (the bullnose tile) to use as a guide to mud the drywall side with drywall mud/joint compound.
Thank's John
I will do it just like you have said.
Bob
 
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Old 08-13-10, 05:27 AM
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"confused"

Bob, if you need a little more expanation let me know.
 
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Old 08-15-10, 07:44 AM
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confused

Originally Posted by Here's Johnny
"confused"

Bob, if you need a little more explanation let me know.
Johnny
If I put the mesh on all the in and out sides corners,and then mud it up, can I let it try and come back later and recoat it and then put my tile on top of the mud, will it stay stuck together?
Thanks Bob
 
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Old 08-15-10, 07:51 AM
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That one I can answer! Yes, its not a problem. No different then waiting a week between mud coats when repairing sheetrock.

Just don't mound it up...you want enough to embed the mesh tape...not a 1/4" thick bead.
 
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Old 08-15-10, 08:05 AM
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confused

Originally Posted by Gunguy45
That one I can answer! Yes, its not a problem. No different then waiting a week between mud coats when repairing sheetrock.

Just don't mound it up...you want enough to embed the mesh tape...not a 1/4" thick bead.
Thank You Gunguy45 I will do my best
Bob
 
 

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