Cracked Sanded Caulk - Help

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Old 02-11-11, 12:23 PM
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Smile Cracked Sanded Caulk - Help

Hi gang, I am wondering if you can help me with a problem. The sanded caulk that was used to seal the gap between our granite countertops and the tile backsplash has cracked all the way down the length of the countertop. When the house was newer, this same thing happenned. I reported this as a warranty issue and the builder sent a guy out who laid down another layer of caulk. That layer has now cracked as well. The cracking is most severe near the sink. How can I repair this properly? Did they use the incorrect type of caulk? Should I completely remove the existing caulk before attempting to fix this or do I just caulk on top of the existing caulk. I am a home repair novice. Any help is much appreciated.
 
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Old 02-11-11, 01:05 PM
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You need to remove the failing caulk so it can be recaulked. That allows the new caulk to bond with both the counter and the backsplash. Assuming the cabinet is stout enough to hold the granite and the crack was caused by normal settling or shrinkage - that should be a permanent fix.
 
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Old 02-11-11, 01:39 PM
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Is there any trick to removing sanded caulk? Can it be pulled off like normal caulk or does it need to be sort of chiselled out. I want to make sure i remove it without causing damage. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 02-11-11, 02:03 PM
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As far as I know the only difference between sanded caulk and regular caulk is the 'grit'
You should be able to cut the caulk at the back splash and at the counter and then pull it out. It might come out all together or you might have to stop and start over every so often.
Just be careful with your cutting so you don't scratch the granite.
 
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Old 02-18-11, 03:39 PM
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Exclamation Custom Caulking

Sometimes the "cracking" seen in these specialized caulkings are due to the product "shrinking" as they cure. The caulking should not crack as they are "flexible" and should "rock and roll" with normal house setteling.

I'd be interested to know how thick the joint is that it being caulked. Typically, caulking is not designed to be put in joints thicker than 1/8"

But as to your problem, you'll need to remove all existing caulking and start over. I usually start by using a sharp razor knife and cut the top and bottom edges of the existing caulking, trying to remove it in one perfect piece (which never happens!). I'll remove the majority of the caulking in this manor.

Next I will use a glass window scraper with a razor blade and clean off the granite and tile surfaces. You should not have to use a chisel to remove caulking!

Once all of the caulking is removed, recaulk. There's an art to caulking neatly. I'll overfill the joint. With a roll of paper towel handy I'll run my finger along the joint and remove the majority of the excess, keeping my fingers clean with the paper towel. Then I'll take a grout (hydro) sponge and remove excess / smooth out the line to perfection, constantly rinsing out the sponge as I go.

With tight grout lines this will usually finish the job. However if you filled a large gap or have a thick grout line caulked, it may be prudent to let the caulking "fully cure". In these situations, within 24 hours you'll notice the caulking shrinking - sometimes it looks like it is being sucked into the joint.

If this is the case, let the first application cure, then repeat the caulking process.
 
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