How to re-tile my shower


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Old 08-06-11, 11:15 PM
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How to re-tile my shower

Hey there! First post here. I'd like to retile the walls around my bathtub and I want to do it myself. I'm a pretty handy guy but I would like some pointers if anyone has them. The existing tiles are pretty basic plain white tiles. The tub looks nice enough so I'm going to keep that in there. The existing tile only goes about 6' up the wall. I'd like to go all the way up to the ceiling with the new stuff. Hers a question. When I pull the old stuff down, will I need to pull out the drywall behind the tub, all the way down to the floor? Or should I just stop at the top edge of the tub? Another question. What are the different layers that I should install behind the tiles? (plastic film, backerboard, etc). Thanks for now.
 
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Old 08-07-11, 01:33 AM
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Welcome to the forums! The best way to attack your remodel is to remove everything back to the studs. You will be glad you did. Then install a 6 mil vapor barrier on the entire wall, then 1/2" concrete backer underlayment (Durock, Wonderboard, Hardiebacker). There will be no sheetrock behind the tub, as it should be butted right up to the studs and fastened. Once your backer is up, seal your seams and corners using mesh tape made for cbu, not sheetrock. Embed it in a layer of thinset, just like you would sheetrock. Leave the cbu about 1/2" above the edge of the tub. You will be tiling down to the tub, and that gives less chance for water to wick up the cbu. Definitely go all the way to the ceiling, BUT measure carefully all around the tub to make sure you won't have any funky cuts at the top that may look bad. If it is fairly level, then go for it.
Let us know if you have any more questions as you go along. We're here.
 
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Old 08-07-11, 02:37 AM
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Thanks for the response. Sounds good. You say to leave a 1/2" gap above the tub when installing the cbu, but what about the vapor barrier, how far down does it go? Also, will the bottom row of tiles actually make contact with the tub or should I leave a gap there also? And how are the corners tiled? Do I put a spacer in there as well or will the tiles butt up against each other? Thanks
 
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Old 08-07-11, 03:38 AM
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Allow the vb to extend to the lip of the tub. You can cut it off there. The tile will cover it all. You can leave a small gap with your tile, although not necessary. You will be siliconing there, and not grouting. As well as your corners, butt them together. On any converging angle, changing planes, or going to dissimilar materials, you will use silicone and not grout as grout will crack and fall out.
 
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Old 08-13-11, 10:49 PM
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Thanks for the great info. One more question, should I start tiling on the first row just above the tub or should I use a batten and start on the second row?
 
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Old 08-14-11, 03:57 AM
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Unless your tub is perfectly level start with a level batten at a mark equal to the longest distance from the tub to the batten. You may have to cut tile, but it won't be that noticeable.
 
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Old 08-15-11, 09:56 AM
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"a mark equal to the longest distance from the tub to the batten"

I think I need to have another cup of coffee because I can't figure that one out. Haha. Any chance you could clarify that? Thanks again!
 
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Old 08-15-11, 03:26 PM
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You will need (probably) to cut the bottom row of tile if the tub is not perfectly level. Your batten should be at a height that will allow you to have full tiles at the bottom, cutting the ones you need to fit. The longest distance allowable for a full tile is where your batten should be. Everything else will either "fit", or will be cut. Make sure the batten is level.
I did it without coffee, you should be able to understand me without coffee !! Hope that explains it better.
 
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Old 08-15-11, 05:00 PM
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Sounds better now. Now I get it. 2 cups later.

Thanks.
 
 

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