Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms
Reload this Page >

Removing a Shower Tub Combo and Replacing with a Multi Faucet Tile Shower

Removing a Shower Tub Combo and Replacing with a Multi Faucet Tile Shower

Old 01-27-12, 11:42 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Removing a Shower Tub Combo and Replacing with a Multi Faucet Tile Shower

My wife and I purchased a house new in 09. The house has a somewhat small master bath equiped with a shower tub combo which we have decided to remove and replace with a walk in tile shower. I know Ill need to cut the combo unit to get it out of the room but im not sure what im gonna find behind it. Ive done some browsing on the forums and understand some of the basics, can anyone let me know how difficult of an ordeal this will be. Another note is all of our plumbing is Plex (at least I think thats what its called) the new plastic stuff not PVC. We want to tile it all (maybe even the floor) and add in dual shower heads with a glass door. I want to make sure I take all the measures necessary to prevent mold and mildew Im just not sure what those measures are. We have two other baths in the house so weve got all the time we need to do it right. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. This is my first thread on this site so if ive not included enough info, please let me know. Thanks in advance!
Old 02-13-12, 05:26 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You're right about one thing, you don't know what's behind there but it really doesn't matter. You take it down to the studs unless you see cement board behind there in good condition. I would install an Hans Grohe shower body which remembers he temp of the last shower you took. Once see what's behind the original walls, it will be easy to decide the next step.
Old 02-14-12, 03:34 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 9 Upvotes on 8 Posts
To further Pulpo's comments. Cut the tub/shower top to bottom in thirds with a reciprocating saw (shallow cuts, please). Remove the middle section, then the back section. That leaves the control end. After all the pretty stuff is removed, including the drain, you can pull the last section away from it all and dispose of it. Hopefully this will leave you with exposed studs. If not, take it all down and start from scratch. That way, you aren't relying on someone else's methods to complete your project.
Hans Grohe is top of the line, IMO, but pricey.
Do you know if you plan on a full tile (ceiling included) or just partial walls?
Old 02-29-12, 06:34 AM
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
shower rebuild

Omen, this is the same project I am doing. We purchased our retirement home in July 09 and we (she) decided we (I) needed to redo our master bath. I removed the fiberglass shower to the studs, but kept a lot of the other walls intact just to save a bit of work.

I have the plumbing done, I have plastic membrane over the new insulation and cement board over that...only the top half for now.

I am going to have a go at building my own shower pan as the "Kits" I have seen run over $600 for what I have shopped.

I have a good concrete foundation (31"x48") over which I put 3/4" marine plywood to solve for a drain area issue. My first layer is 15# roofing paper and mesh over that...the next layer is to be sand top mix finished to slope about 1/4" per foot to the drain base ...then the membrane layer silicone sealed at the drain with small cuts to expose the weep holes and the outer ring bolted on to complete the membrane seal for the base...then another layer of sand top mix sloped at 1/4" per ft. apprx 1" at the drain and 1 1/2" at the outside edge.

I will then place the remaining concrete board down to the floor so it will overlap the membrane I extended up the wall by about 6".

Long story....but I wonder if there is something I need to do do further seal the raw edge of the concrete board to prevent wicking or may I just run a good bead of silicone sealant and call it good.

When I tile the walls and floors with Thinset, do I need some sort of additive for whatever reason? I plan on 12" ceramic walls and 2" ceramic floor and ceiling.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: