Removed Tile Need Advise Replacing Drywall

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Old 11-16-12, 09:25 AM
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Removed Tile Need Advise Replacing Drywall

I've removed the tile and most of the drywall in our kitchen area. I'm on to replacing the drywall but am not sure how to do it correctly.

The drywall I removed was from the top of the countertops to the bottom of the upper cabinets. If I put new drywall up how do I seam the space between the new drywall at the upper cabinets/countertop and the old drywall?
 
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Old 11-16-12, 09:33 AM
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My recommendation would be to remove the cabinets and replace the drywall using large enough pieces so that they extend behind the upper and lower cabinets. If you are planning a backsplash you wouldn't need to move the bottom cabinets.
 
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Old 11-16-12, 09:40 AM
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What are your plans for the space between the cabinets? New tile might be the easiest fix. You could finish the drywall with the cabinets in place by flat taping where it the drywall meets the cabinet..... but I would rather not, given a choice.
 
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Old 11-16-12, 10:55 AM
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We're probably going to tile it again. I figured you could leave the gap there since the tile would cover it but I'm the type who likes to do it right way. On the other hand my wife is all about the quick and easy way.

She wants to know what the downsides would be to not moving the cabinets and taping the joints.

I've read instead of drywall I should probably use cement backboard or different type of backerboard.

Never mentioned this was for the kitchen.
 
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Old 11-16-12, 02:03 PM
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While cement board is needed for wet applications it really isn't needed for a kitchen back splash, it won't get wet enough to hurt drywall. You can use either - your call.

It's easier to finish drywall without the cabinets being in the way but if you are going to tile I wouldn't bother going to that much effort to put up and finish the drywall.
 
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Old 11-16-12, 04:14 PM
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Drywall is fine as a substrate in this application. Assuming the seams are reasonably small I wouldn't worry about it. They will fill with tile adhesive.

Just be careful when troweling on the adhesive that you don't catch the edge of a seam and mess up the drywall or make a lump under the tile.
 
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Old 11-17-12, 08:22 AM
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It kind of depends on the overall layout of the kitchen in relation to where the new tile is going, where the old tile was and transitions to areas that are not getting any tile at all. Under the upper cabinets is less critical if you are eventually going to tile as you have to "scoot down" in order to see. You can also install a piece of cabinet molding to hide the edge until tile time comes. The counter top area is of more concern as most walls are not straight and level. There will probably be gaps that the tile will cover up but will be visible until you tile. You also need to protect this edge of drywall from moisture near the sink area. You also will need to finish the drywall at the ends of the cabinet runs unless the cabinets all die into sidewalls.

Concerns over not taping drywall is that the "patch" will not be as sturdy as it free floats between the studs. The flex in this area may eventually cause tile failure. Taping the edges will create a stronger wall as it ties the patch to existing drywall and strengthens the overall wall. If you installed blocking in between the studs at both counter top and under cabinet level, it would make for a much stronger wall, which is what you want for tile.
 
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Old 11-17-12, 09:23 AM
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I think our plan is to leave the gap by the upper cabinets and hope that our tiling job covers the visible shortcut.

We're planning on replacing the countertops so I'll tape those joints on the removal of the old countertops.

Feels like we have the steps all messed up on this rennovation but we have to deal with what we have.

Thanks for all the help and advise.
 
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