Countertop Edge Options

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-05-12, 04:27 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Countertop Edge Options

I want an edge option that is reasonable for my 12X24 Absolute Black Granite tiles.

>>I found Home Depot had bullnose edge tiles:
2 in. x 12 in. Absolute Black Granite Rail Molding Wall Tile (1 Ln. Ft. per piece)-SMOT-RAIL-PBLK at The Home Depot (SEE photo with this post)

Presently at almost $7 each this is pricey to go around an island as well as all of my counters...some 40 ft. $280 which does not include tax.
>>Of course there ARE a lot of 1 inch tiles out there that might look great as vertical edging mounted next to or under edge of granite countertop tiles.
They usually come on a screen mesh back and could be cut apart for single rows, getting 12 feet out of one 12"X12" sheet.

I think I will stay with putting the surface horizontal large tiles to hang out over the edge 3/8-1/2" and will simply use:
HIGH GLOSS POLYCRYLIC to "paint" a gloss edge on the non-glossy edge of my large tiles. (Who needs to buy pricey tool to polish or pay someone to do it= silly.)
This small 3/8" edge will be on the vertical side of tile & can be easily reapplied if it gets worn off in cleaning.

Of course cutting 1&1/2 " sections of my 12X12 tiles will be tedious, pricey, frustrating...

so I may rethink this idea and use a Ranch/Colonial Stop in oak (similar to idea shown of a tiled countertop with wood edge already submitted photo here, only finished like my cabinets). Colonial edge Stop is for doors so is usually in 7 foot pieces has a nice 2 step angle cut profile on oneside that would be nice. (SEE photo with this post) I will just have to put many coats of polycrylic to seal all over & any wood filler putty to protect it from water/cleaning products. Of course you can't use grout next to real wood as it expands at different rate than granite so I would use a clear narrow bead of poly/silicone adhesive caulk.

I could also finish the wood Colonial stop with simple Black MARINE type paint and picking a few faux Absolute Black granite tones in paint applied here & there and some dot dabs of satin polycrylic over the glossy polycrylic will mimic the splotchy two tones found in black granite. I would avoid nails then & just attach with Liquid Nails to my vertical piece of wood or 1/4" denshield/cement board.
At less than $6 for 7 feet, I can experiment all day on a piece of wood & be ahead of the $280 in real bullnose granite edges.

Funny how manufacturers don't provide some faux look replication of granite in ceramic or porcelain 1&1/4 X 12 inch pieces!

I will try to post when I get done with a section. Time to get busy.
 
Attached Images   

Last edited by Nashkat1; 12-05-12 at 10:24 PM.
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-05-12, 10:26 PM
Nashkat1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 8,470
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Welcome to the forums!

I moved your post to its own thread so that replies to your questions would be kept separate from replies to other questions.

Looking forward to further pics!
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-12, 05:15 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,189
Received 132 Votes on 118 Posts
Oak doesn't necessarily paint well. It has an open grain that primer/paint alone won't fill. If you go that route you'd want to use either a oak grain filler or joint compound to fill the grain. Basically you smear a thin coat over the wood, let it dry and then sand as much of it off as you can. That fills the grain so the paint job will be smooth [no open grain showing]
 
  #4  
Old 12-06-12, 05:43 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
I think you can achieve the look you desire using your field tiles ripped down to your rail height and doing a lap corner. You can then address the raw edge of the granite with a stone sealer that gives you the "wet" look. It would approximate the look of polished stone. Would last longer than a painted surface which would be subject to chipping. Rent a high quality wet saw that has either a sliding table or sliding saw blade to achieve the best rip cuts.
 
  #5  
Old 12-06-12, 10:37 AM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,346
Received 50 Votes on 47 Posts
If you want painted wood, something cheaper like poplar would be a better choice than oak. Oak would be best stained and finished with polyurethane instead of painting it, as you also proposed.
 
  #6  
Old 12-06-12, 12:44 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,189
Received 132 Votes on 118 Posts
I would think polar would dent easy but it does paint better than oak. I couldn't afford oak when I did my kitchen counter tops but used yellow pine [for the banding] instead as it's a lot tougher than white pine.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: