Help with shower door. How it's supported

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-14-12, 07:34 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 187
Help with shower door. How it's supported

I'm finishing putting in a new shower and I am thinking about a Framless door. My question (I know not very clear in the title) is what do I need to do framing was, do I need to double up 2x4s on both sides? Or does it attach to the ceiling and to the curb and if that's the case the curb is 3 2x4s stacked then an inch of mud so how do I attach and what do I need to do to support the ceiling? I'm sorry I'm not explaining it that good hopefully you guys understand what I mean. Thanks in advance
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-15-12, 03:37 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Upvotes Received: 2
You'll need to do subtractive math. Meaning figure the opening size allowable by the adjustments of the door you are buying, then subtract the thickness of your tile, thinset, and cbu. This will give a location for your double studs (usually jack and king). How does the door attach? To the side wall or to the curb and ceiling? You may have to build down from the ceiling using a header in order to attach it to something. Pictures of what you are doing would help, too.
 
  #3  
Old 12-15-12, 05:12 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Upvotes Received: 9
How big is your shower? Will it have one or two door? Pivot or sliding? In swing or outswing? Are the walls tiled, or is it a shower unit?

I assume with frameless, you are looking at one large door and a stationary panel. You need to at least double up the 2x4's that are in direct line up with the curb. Plan on studs that go from ground to ceiling, don't attach a heavy door to a partial or 3/4 wall.

The shower door will be made probably by a local glass shop, might be well advised to stop in there and inquire as to how their hinges mount to the walls.
 
  #4  
Old 12-19-12, 11:02 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 187
HEy guys thanks all so much for the replies. You got exactly what I was trying to ask. Gonna snap a few pics and see what u guys think from that. It's a small opening right now bout 50" so I was thinking one small stationary piece of glass then a swinging door. But open to what looks and is the best. The opening is as of now isn't built out with 2 x4s but on one end there is 2 2x4s for the door as well as 2 2x4s directly connected to the other for support of the new wall I built. So basically there are 4 2x4s next to each other but not sure if the way they are facing matters. Since the door way and bathroom itself are small I'd like to keep the door way as wide as possible.

And btw how do I post pics?
Thanks again in advanced
 
  #5  
Old 12-19-12, 11:08 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Upvotes Received: 2
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html is our standard way. If you have problems let us know and we'll give you plan B.
 
  #6  
Old 12-20-12, 05:47 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 187
<a href="http://s385.photobucket.com/albums/oo294/tonylongdong/?action=view&current=897F3FBB-AF28-4193-BAF6-1849BE79B902-694-000000B6BA5D5CF5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo294/tonylongdong/897F3FBB-AF28-4193-BAF6-1849BE79B902-694-000000B6BA5D5CF5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>
 
  #7  
Old 12-20-12, 06:02 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 187











Ok so those are pics of where the curb meets the studs from the curb to the ceiling. I also put a pic looking into the bathroom from the door and from the shower looking into the bath room.

As far as the shower door. I am trying to keep it as open as possible and not really build out with double 2 x4s making it smaller unless I have too.

And well I got ya, right now there is just an old school light you can kind of see in the pics. I am going to put an exhuast fan in as well- do I leave the new light and fan right where the old one is. 2- move the new fan and light closer to shower so the fan actually works and the light will light shower. 3- leave new fan and light where it is and put a light in the shower. All the wires run right over the shower so that's no biggy

Any ideas on tile? I am trying to keep the old sink which has a brownish ghrey so I was thinking a sand color brown. 12" on the floor. 2" on shower floor 6" on walls shower and bath up. Mosacic then continue w 6" tile diagonal to ceiling.

Thanks for all the help
 
  #8  
Old 12-21-12, 03:43 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Upvotes Received: 2
If you are installing a manufactured door, you will need to know the rough opening required and install return walls to meet that, taking into consideration the thickness of cbu, thinset and tile as well as the framing lumber. If you are going to have it custom built, you will need to install framing from the berm on the supply end all the way to the ceiling, sort of boxing it all in. On the other end, you will need to fill that gap between studs somehow. Guaranteed, that's where you will wind up driving a screw for support. Returns make it look more inviting, so consider some sort of return.

I think your design with the tile is very good and should add to the decor. I know you are using this bathroom at present, but when you start, tear it all out to the ceiling and down to the studs. You will be a happier camper without all the "stuff" in your way.
 
  #9  
Old 12-21-12, 04:38 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Upvotes Received: 9
Cut the triple stud out and slide it over to close the gap, you need good wood right where the gap is. It might not be such a bad idea to build a 1/2 wall on the service end of the shower as you will have a vanity that butts into it. This is going to limit the size of the door, but you can install glass above it. The door only really needs to be big enough to enter and exit. Also take into consideration that the door needs to be orientated so that water splashing from the shower head can be directed back into the pan for exit to the drain. Lastly, consider the bathroom door and how it will be orientated in relation to the shower. It's pretty close to where the shower is, would not want any broken glass should the door be swung open and the knob hit the glass.
 
  #10  
Old 12-21-12, 11:41 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 187
Thank you guys for getting back to me so quick

How can I fill that gap by the triple studs with out cutting them out. I just framed that all out. There was a closet where the shower is and I had to build it out 3 ft or so. And I framed the back(by the triple studs to have a little shelf. Can I just stuff a 1/2" piece of wood from the floor to ceiling?

What is a return?I am a total newbe just very mechanical inclined my father was a master plumber and a gc and I grew up watching but he passed away before I was really able to learn.

Yes I was keeping the bowl until needed to tile so I don't need to run upstairs everytime nature calls but I was going to leave the drywall and just tile over do you advise putting new dry wall to tile over? It was tiled up to the ledge then wall papered up to ceiling. The paper pulled right off.

Do you guys think it's best talk to a shop that sells the door first? Find out If I can put a premade door up and if I have to build it out it solves my problem and then just add studs from floor to ceiling. If I do add studs can I put the right to the curb or should I cut out the the 1 1/2-3" from the curb and have the studs go to the floor, to me it seems the same if it's nailed to the curb which is 3 2x4s or if it's just 1 2x4 for a floor stud

I framed out the shower, connected the drain, built the sub pan from mud and sweated all the pipes together with all of your help :-)
 
  #11  
Old 12-21-12, 12:23 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Upvotes Received: 9
It looks like the triple stud is just toe nailed in at the top. Use a pry bar to remove the nails and you should be able to knock the top free and pivot it down to release the bottom nails. If the studs are nailed together pry them apart enough to get a reciprocating saw in to cut the nails. You want beef behind the door hinge and chances are that if you slide a 1/2" filler in, the screws will the seam between them and not give great support.

Draw up some quick plans and take them to a glass shop. They will be able to guide you on the types of doors available. You will not be able to cut a glass door down to size after it is made. The glass will be tempered and can not be cut after tempering.

You will also need to add 2"x10" blocking at the base of the shower all the way around. Lay it horizontal between each stud cavity. This will give you something to nail your pan membrane too.

Building a small return will complicate the tile installation IMO. A short 4 to 6 inch wall will cause a lot work using bullnose tile to wrap around. It is easier to move the 2 studs over to close the gap.
 
  #12  
Old 12-21-12, 04:03 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Upvotes Received: 2
A "return" is short walls from your front and back walls to which you can attach your door. Not totally necessary as Czizzi mentioned, but it gives a little "relief" to the walls, and also allows you to use a premade door if you choose to do so, and I think you will by the time you price a custom door.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes