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Do I liquid nail concrete board to studs? If yes no vapor barrier

Do I liquid nail concrete board to studs? If yes no vapor barrier

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  #1  
Old 05-18-13, 08:06 AM
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Do I liquid nail concrete board to studs? If yes no vapor barrier

Hey guys to friends that remodel bathrooms both told me tha I don't need to put a vapor barrier between the Durock and the studs but to liquid nail it as well as screw it in?

I have read several time on here to use a vapor barrier

What should I do?
It makes sense that it is uneeded bc it that idea of the durock to prevent mosture from hitting the studs? I know concrete is porous but is it that porus?

Also what's the easiest way to cut the Durock it's not a huge area

Thanks as always
 
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  #2  
Old 05-18-13, 08:22 AM
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Tile board is not water proof. It gets water proofed on the surface with a product like this.
Custom Building Products RedGard 1 Gal. Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane-LQWAF1 at The Home Depot

No need for constrution adhesive or any vaper barrrier behind the boards.
It can be scored with a carbide knife and snapped off or cut with a ciruler saw with a carbide blade.
 
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Old 05-18-13, 08:54 AM
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Great thanks for the reply. At the risk of sounding stupid that water proofing goes over the tiles correct?

Where can I get a carbide blade? Everyone I asked at Home Depot seemed clueless? Any circular saw blade will do? And I'm assuming I can find a carbide jig saw blade and drill bit to cut around the fixtures?

Thanks again
 
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Old 05-18-13, 10:28 AM
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You would have a heck of a mess if you use Red Gard over the tiles, it's red in color.
You tape and seal the seams with tile board tape and thin set, once dry you apply the Red Gard, once that's dry you apply thin set and the tiles.
 
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Old 05-18-13, 10:52 AM
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Using Durock and then Redgard seems duplication of effort and increase in cost.

I think Redgard was originally made so you could use regular sheetrock then apply the Redgard over it. It prevented moisture from getting into the sheetrock and degrading it as well as mold eating the paper backing. It has to be applied to a certain film thickness to do it's job. Of course they no longer say regular sheetrock as no source would recommend it. Not like Kerdi stuff.

If you use cement board, you don't need to worry about any decomposition, just moisture penetrating through to the framing....thats the purpose of the heavy poly between the CBU and studs.

At least thats from everything I've read here as well as other sources.

Not saying you can't do it, but Redgard isn't cheap. If you do use it, I'm sure it is probably better than the poly...but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.
 
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Old 05-18-13, 11:07 AM
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You are going to have the two factions - Old school traditionalists and people who love the new fangled gizmos. I use 1 felt paper and apply it in a "shingled" fashion. It provides the needed vapor barrier and it also has the benefit of being able to sheet any water back into the tub or shower base.

There are several active recent threads on this site of people with tiled showers where water has gotten behind the cement board. All with disastrous results and include complete tear out and replacement of the whole shower and damaged framing (pictures are included in the threads if you would like to view). Is it easier to paint something on? probably. I want to know for sure that what I have built is foolproof. They say time is money, and many look for shortcuts as a result. I, however, believe that if you are to put your name behind an installation - shortcuts are not part of the formula.
 
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Old 05-18-13, 12:12 PM
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Thanks for all the replys guys.

It is my bathroom I am doing so cost is deff an issue an extra 100$ for the red guard seems to be a lot.

Do you think I would be ok using the same vinyl barrier they told me to use under the Bamboo flooring behind the durock and not liquid nail the durock to the stud?

A silicon sealer is used over the tile as well correct? I remember my dad every so often using it on the tiled shower floors?

Is both of that enough to rest easy?
 
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Old 05-18-13, 12:21 PM
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Not positive...but I think the minimum poly is 6 mil...thicker wouldn't hurt and doesn't cost much more if available. From what I read 15# roofing felt is also a good choice...but last time I looked that stuff had gotten pricey as well when all you need is enough to do one shower.
 
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Old 05-18-13, 12:24 PM
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Do I liquid nail concrete board to studs? If yes no vapor barrier

I'd suggest you take a look on this site that has nothing but tile advice from pro's.
John Bridge Tile Forum, DIY Tile Advice, Tile How-to Information, Tile Your World
You'll quickly see how bad what's been suggested is.
What it bullet proof then spring for something like this.
Schluter-KERDI-SHOWER-KIT - Schluter-Systems
 

Last edited by Gunguy45; 05-18-13 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Removed a statement....
  #10  
Old 05-18-13, 12:42 PM
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I agree...the John Bridge site is one I visited when doing my bath back in VA. I got most of it right...
 
  #11  
Old 05-18-13, 03:59 PM
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Personally I think the Redgard type product over the Cement board is the most cost effective for DIY showers. If you have the money, then Kerdi.

The do-over if it fails is the most expensive!!
 
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