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Removing the vanity so I can put it back and use it again

Removing the vanity so I can put it back and use it again

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  #1  
Old 06-06-13, 04:19 PM
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Removing the vanity so I can put it back and use it again

I'm about to start a bathroom upgrade and am doing as much as I can myself. I've got a double sink vanity that butts right up to the bathtub that I need to take out. So the only way to take out the tub is to also take out the vanity. While I take out the vanity we're going to refinish it so I'm not too upset that I have to take it out. But I want to take it out so that I can put it back. I'm concerned about tearing up the vanity when I take it out. What's the best way to take out a vanity so that it all stays together so that I can reuse it?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-06-13, 05:41 PM
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Very carefully, I would say.

Really, the first thing you need to do is to determine if the vanity was built in a factory and then set in place or if it was built exactly where it is. If the latter you might have a real problem but if it is a pre-built assembly it might be held in place by only a few screws under the top and into the wall studs.

Pictures may help the others on the forum to help you.
 
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Old 06-06-13, 05:41 PM
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Any I've seen come in one piece
Got a picture?
Disconnect the drain and supply lines.
Cut any caulking if there is any around the back splash.
And remove the screw up inside the cabinet holding it to the wall.
 
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Old 06-07-13, 04:47 AM
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I've seen some cabinets constructed onsite that might be a bear to uninstall but most are built elsewhere and attached to the wall with screws. Unless it's a real old house, the cabinet is likely screwed in place. Your screws should be 16" apart [could be 24"]

btw - welcome to the forums!
 
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Old 06-07-13, 05:47 AM
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I don't know what type of flooring and wall surrounding the vanity you have but be sure and run your box knife/drywall cutter all around the vanity. Even the smallest area still cauked to the floor or wall will make it feel as if it is screwed down. all be sure you remove the mirror first if you have one.
 
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Old 06-07-13, 06:25 AM
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Because of plumbing, it will have to be pulled straight out. Once the top is off, you will get a better idea of what you are up against. Most likely, you will have to remove drywall on either side to give you an inch of play as you try to wiggle it out. If the front extreme left and right have "wings" attached to them, you may be able to unscrew them to give more room. Open the door or drawer and look at the side of the front panel and see if you see screws. Back those out to get the filler pieces (wings) off.
 
  #7  
Old 06-07-13, 07:47 AM
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Thanks so much for the advice. Here are some pictures of what I'm dealing with. I'm a beginner at this if you can't already tell so here are a couple of my beginner questions. I know to unscrew the vanity and turn the water off, but how do I get the back piece of the vanity off when there is that silver cover around the water shut off valve? Does that make sense? It looks like you have to cut out a big hole in the back to get the back piece out. Also I think the flour was tilled after the vanity was put in so I think there might be grout up against the wood. I'm guessing I chisel that out if that's the case, but would there be anything else holding the vanity down from the bottom?






 
  #8  
Old 06-07-13, 12:28 PM
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That is definitely a factory-built cabinet. You will need to remove the top (it is likely glued on with a silicone adhesive) and remove all the plumbing. As Joe stated, there should be several screws holding it against the wall that will need to be removed.

The main water valve for the house will need to be closed and the pressure relieved before you remove the shut-off valves. The escutcheons between the valves and the wall may be the hinged variety that can be removed easily or they may be the one-piece kind.

If the latter you will need to get a "ferrule puller" from a good hardware store or a plumbing supply to remove the ferrules on the water supply piping and then remove the nuts and escutcheons. The drain pipe will have a trap adapter that will need to be removed.

I suggest that you go to your local library and check out several DIY-type books on plumbing and bathroom remodeling. Yours is certainly a DIY task but it IS a fairly large one.
 
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Old 06-07-13, 03:06 PM
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1-Take down the mirror and the channel the mirror sat in on top of the backsplash
2-Disconnect all plumbing underneath the sink. Shut off water at the valves and remove supply lines. Disconnect the drain from the sink tail at the trap
3-Remove the left wall backsplash. It is glued to the wall and probably caulked in place.
4-Cut the caulk from the main backsplash and see if you can lift the top off. If not, if is glued in place and you need to run a putty knife between the top and the cabinet.

Top should be off.

5. Remove all doors and drawers to lighten the load.
6. Remove the base molding and door casing
7. Remove the handles to the supply lines and cut off the escusions. You may need to enlarge the hole in the back cabinet slightly, but hold for now
8. Remove the fill piece located against the left wall by unscrewing fastners located on the left door hinge side of the face of the cabinet.
9. Remove any screws holding the cabinet tight to the wall
10 Lift and wiggle to see if you can clear the tile floor

Let us know when you get this far.
 
  #10  
Old 06-10-13, 07:57 AM
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Thanks guys so much for the help. I was able to get everything out. See the picture below. I got the vanity out without any damage so I can reuse it and we ended up smashing the tub into a billion pieces and that was the easiest way to get it out. All in all it went mostly well.

One more question now that it's out. I turned off the water to the house, disconnected all the plumbing for the sinks but had to cut the little silver disk that cover the hole where the pipes come through the vanity. The reason I had to cut them and not slide them off was because there's a little ridge on the pipe that holds the nut that screws the water shut off valves on so I couldn't slide the nut or those silver disk off the pipe.

My question is, is do I need to replace those and if so how? The only way I can think to do is is if I cut the pipe so that I can slide everything on and off, but I don't want to do that.

Thanks so much for the help.
 
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  #11  
Old 06-10-13, 02:22 PM
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Escutcheons

Escutcheons, hole covers, smitty plates, shower arm wall plates

The two-piece one should work.
 
  #12  
Old 06-11-13, 09:23 AM
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Perfect. That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank yall so much. I had no idea what those things were called. I'm glad I do now.
 
  #13  
Old 06-11-13, 09:45 AM
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I like the plastic ones. They have one split. You kind of twist it to get over the pipe...

I found the metal one rust in no time....


 
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