Shower faucet knob sticks out to far
#1
08-10-13, 10:04 AM
Shower faucet knob sticks out to far
Hey guys,
Not sure if this is in the right section but I just finished adding a shower and completely remodeling my basement bathroom. My only issue just came when I finished installing the shower knob and plate. The knob sticks out way to far. I did exactly what the instructions said but obviously the valve body should have been further back. There is no way I can redo the plumbing to push it further back now. Do you guys have any ideas what I could do? Some sort of matching coupling that I can fill the gap with? I attached a picture to explain.
Thanks as always
Not sure if this is in the right section but I just finished adding a shower and completely remodeling my basement bathroom. My only issue just came when I finished installing the shower knob and plate. The knob sticks out way to far. I did exactly what the instructions said but obviously the valve body should have been further back. There is no way I can redo the plumbing to push it further back now. Do you guys have any ideas what I could do? Some sort of matching coupling that I can fill the gap with? I attached a picture to explain.
Thanks as always
#2
08-10-13, 10:08 AM
Also there is a little gap between the tile and cover plate where the tile changes. Should a caulk the whole thing? There is rubber behind it and says it will seal it
#3
08-10-13, 10:15 AM
Super Moderator
Its moen right?
Yes the seal behing the escuteon is good but I phenoseal them anyway... Seals wear out over time and shrink...
As for the handle....is the sleeve pushed back to the body all the way?
Best to remove the handle and take a pic...
And when you say followed instructions...did you leave the black plaster plate on? That plate shouh have been flush with finished wall... Then the plate removed for the trim...
Yes the seal behing the escuteon is good but I phenoseal them anyway... Seals wear out over time and shrink...
As for the handle....is the sleeve pushed back to the body all the way?
Best to remove the handle and take a pic...
And when you say followed instructions...did you leave the black plaster plate on? That plate shouh have been flush with finished wall... Then the plate removed for the trim...
#4
08-10-13, 10:58 AM
Thanks for the reply. Now the site isn't uploadin a pic with the handle off but it's def pushed all the way in. The screw that goes into the valve body from the thing that the handle goes into screws in no problem and the screw on the bottom of the handle lines up with that piece.
Yes did just that lined up the plastic ring with the wall than removed it before tiling
What's phenoseal?
Thanks for trying to help. Ill try to upload the pics to my pc and post them from there it's not lettin me from my phone
Yes did just that lined up the plastic ring with the wall than removed it before tiling
What's phenoseal?
Thanks for trying to help. Ill try to upload the pics to my pc and post them from there it's not lettin me from my phone
#6
08-14-13, 05:36 AM
Member
This is one of my beefs with Moen, fit and finish. The only way you can adjust this is to move the plumbing/rough-in located in the wall back which will pull the center throat closer to the wall plate.
#7
08-14-13, 09:35 AM
Man so annoying. Something got messed up when I lined that plastic piece up w the wall. I think I wasn't supposed to break the thing off even though it said to do so if have cbb and tile. Yeah I figured I could adjust it by moving the actual valve body but I would have to rip everything out from behind it and chance messing up the plumbing and tiling. Looks like it's something ill have to live with. Guess ill put some silicone around the inside so water doesn't get it.
Anybody think I can get a different handle on there that might be longer and cover more of that gap? Or some how make a coupling that will fill the space? Anything better than what's there
Anybody think I can get a different handle on there that might be longer and cover more of that gap? Or some how make a coupling that will fill the space? Anything better than what's there
#8
08-14-13, 01:37 PM
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Hardly ideal, but if you are just looking for ideas;
You can get another (smaller) plate to put over the first one to help close the gap.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...woVhk2fxos7EPN
But I'd consider that to be a temporary and ugly solution.
You can get another (smaller) plate to put over the first one to help close the gap.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...woVhk2fxos7EPN
But I'd consider that to be a temporary and ugly solution.
#9
08-16-13, 02:38 PM
Yeah I'm going to have to do something like that it might not be ideal but I don't know what else to do. I ran the pipes through the studs so would have to pretty much redo all the plumbing from behind the tile. Ugh I can't believe this happened
#10
05-17-15, 02:37 PM
For the benefit of future readers, if the valve body is installed with the plaster ground flush with finished wall, the valve handle WILL stick out too far. The "plaster ground" is the plastic piece that comes with the valve, some are white, some are black. It's supposed to be the 'gauge' to set the depth of the valve in the wall. In my opinion, Moen is WRONG about the thickness of that piece. It should be 3/8" thicker.
The best solution is to install the valve body with the plaster ground 3/8" back from the finished wall. This would provide a 1/8" space between the back of the handle and the escutcheon, perfectly acceptable.
The second solution is going to cost about $60 or so.
Moen has an "escutcheon extension" available that brings the escutcheon 1/2" away from the wall. The Moen number is 162 for the chrome. It doesn't appear to be available in all the finishes though, but I know that oiled bronze is one of the others.
Problem with the extension is that 1/2" MIGHT give you just a tad too much. The handle MIGHT hit the escutcheon. The valve MIGHT NOT shut off when pushed all the way in.
This has been an issue for at least 5-6 years with the Moen shower valves...
BUT, before you take my advice and mount the body 3/8" deeper, do your own verification and MOCK UP the install and judge for yourself.
Go to google and type in "Moen shower handle sticks out too far" and you'll see what I mean.
Oh yeah, and how about that little 'comic book' that they supply as a sad excuse for installation instructions? Only a super-hero could work with that... worse than Ikea furniture!
The best solution is to install the valve body with the plaster ground 3/8" back from the finished wall. This would provide a 1/8" space between the back of the handle and the escutcheon, perfectly acceptable.
The second solution is going to cost about $60 or so.
Moen has an "escutcheon extension" available that brings the escutcheon 1/2" away from the wall. The Moen number is 162 for the chrome. It doesn't appear to be available in all the finishes though, but I know that oiled bronze is one of the others.
Problem with the extension is that 1/2" MIGHT give you just a tad too much. The handle MIGHT hit the escutcheon. The valve MIGHT NOT shut off when pushed all the way in.
This has been an issue for at least 5-6 years with the Moen shower valves...
BUT, before you take my advice and mount the body 3/8" deeper, do your own verification and MOCK UP the install and judge for yourself.
Go to google and type in "Moen shower handle sticks out too far" and you'll see what I mean.
Oh yeah, and how about that little 'comic book' that they supply as a sad excuse for installation instructions? Only a super-hero could work with that... worse than Ikea furniture!
