Finish/Trim around Fiberglass Sterling Stall


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Old 08-18-13, 02:22 PM
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Finish/Trim around Fiberglass Sterling Stall

I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I am a first-timer...

We replaced an old alcove shower stall with a new 48" Sterling fiberglass stall. It attaches directly to the studs. We cut out the drywall in order to fit the stall and now I am wondering what most people do finish off the space between the top flange on the shower and the remaining drywall? It seems like most people bring mold-resistant drywall all the way down to the top of the stall and caulk the remaining space? However, the flange sticks out from the studs by a little bit, so I'm not sure how that would work. One person told me they've used bullnose tile around the perimeter to close the gap. Is that a possibility?


Any suggestions? I've included pictures.
 
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Old 08-19-13, 03:20 AM
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Normally the drywall comes down far enough to cover the lip and then caulking completes the gap. The 2x4 would be wrapped with drywall. IMO once the drywall is finished, primed and has a couple of coats of latex enamel applied - there is no real advantage to using mold resistant drywall, I'd use whatever scrap drywall was handy ..... provided it's the right thickness. Tile can be used but you need to fill the gap with drywall first.
 
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Old 08-19-13, 04:06 PM
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Above the shower, cut back the drywall so that you have at least a foot of new drywall to install. This will help bridge the difference in depth between the studs and the new shower body. Tape and mud appropriately and caulk the seam at the shower and paint.

For the vertical transitions, cut the drywall back to the next available stud to allow 14.5" of space prior to the transition and do the same as on the top edges to finish. If you are concerned with the depth transition, install a cedar shim on the studs to that matches the shower unit depth and tapers to the the drywall on the wall. this will prevent blowouts when screwing/nailing the sheetrock down.
 
 

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