can i reuse this old shower drain?


  #1  
Old 12-09-13, 05:58 AM
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can i reuse this old shower drain?

i cant get in the crawlspace to see how it looks under ther

i'm not a plumber and really dont want to mess with this. the screws in the pic are really not accessible to get out. i really would like to reuse this AS IS if possible. i have to take out the black membrane yet. it's just laying in there. and as you can see the drain is offset. it's 23 inches from the right wall to the center of the drain then 19 from the center of drain to the left. i was going to try to use a 48 inch kerdi floor. what do you think? just was going to do tile floor and walls. unless you have another suggestion

also there's a bit of the metal membrane still sticking up from the drain perimeter. id cut it down as close as i can

also assuming i can buy some kind of drain extender if i need because i'm unsure how thick the kerdi is.





 
  #2  
Old 12-09-13, 06:53 AM
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Unfortunately, you will not be able to reuse the drain you have. Shower drains are multi-part and capture the shower pan liner so that water is directed to the weep holes inside the drain. The metal around the drain is the old pan liner. If you are unsure of how to proceed, you may wish to consult to have a professional set the drain and liner for you. To read up on what you are up against, here is an excellent article on shower drains - How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.
 
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Old 12-10-13, 06:29 AM
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looking at the drain i dont understand what holes you speak of. before i hacked off the metal liner with my recip saw. i could see no holes in it at all, much less closer to the drain.

basically what i'm saying is it looks very water proof up until the lip of the drain of course. so i dont get why i cant must mortar over everything to the drain.
 
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Old 12-10-13, 06:58 AM
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Understanding the concept of a shower drain assembly is of utmost importance to the success of your project. The shower drain consists of 3 parts - One that goes on the floor attached to the pipe, One that covers the pan liner and allows water to drain under the cover, and the drain body top that is visible to the person taking the shower. The installation of the shower pan liner on the drain body is what makes the shower drain water tight. Mortar is not waterproof, and no amount of glue, sealant or mortar will keep water from seeping past your drain and into the subfloor structure. Here is a video that shows you weep holes functioning under the pan liner drain cap.

shower drain weep holes - YouTube

Today's drains are made of PVC, the existing drain you have is probably cast metal and has served its purpose. Unless you can successfully replace the lead pan liner currently sandwiched inside the drain with a new pan liner that is sealed and creates a waterproof bowl at least 10" up the walls, the drain is useless.

I know you are committed now that the shower is gutted down to the studs, but now is the time to educate on proper procedures for a successful rebuild. Again, my link provide earlier will guide you on procedures to prevent drain issues down the road.
 
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Old 12-10-13, 07:42 AM
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any suggestions on how to get to those screws holding down the thing? when i was pulling up the lead liner the entire drain appeared to actualy move with it
 
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Old 10-01-14, 08:06 AM
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how do i cut this drain out from the top? i cant get under the house to see whats under there but others have told me the drain is up againt a joist. i figure at least i need to cut a piece out and see what i have.

i feel if i see what is down there i can probalby do it myself. then is it just as easy as cutting out new plywood for the floor and nailing it to the joists. do i need to fill in the 'gap' at all with anything?
 
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Old 10-01-14, 04:43 PM
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If you are doing a complete demo and rebuild, then removing and replacing a section of the subfloor would not be that big of an effort in the scheme of things. Once the lead pan is removed, you should be able to see the nails in the floor which will tell you where the joists are located. Cut either to the inside of a joists that you can add a nailing surface or split the joists down the middle and share the joists with two pieces of plywood. If you are lucky, the drain will be assembled with no-hub fittings and can easily be removed.
 
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Old 10-02-14, 06:55 AM
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i havent tried to remove any other layers recently, i guess i have to do that. the other very heavy liner was a killer, i had to cut it up into smaller sections because how heavy it was. i hope whatever is down now is ligther.

is it so bad to cut out a joist to center a drain?
 
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Old 10-02-14, 03:09 PM
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is it so bad to cut out a joist to center a drain?
Please don't cut out any floor joists just to center a drain. As long as the floor is properly sloped, the drain can be anywhere. Water flows downhill, not to the center of the room.
 
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Old 10-03-14, 06:37 AM
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it prevents me from buying a premade base though. not looking to play in mud for the new floor was my goal. i guess if i try it and it doesnt work out i can rip it up lol. or i was thinking trying to rig a kerdi base but how much it's offcenter is probaly not gonna work.
 
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Old 10-03-14, 08:10 AM
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There are plenty of shower pans out there with off-set drains. I did a simple google search and came up with thousands of pictures. Just have to find one that works with your situation.

https://www.google.com/search?q=show...ed=0CAcQ_AUoAg
 
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Old 10-06-14, 08:30 AM
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i cannot imagine one would fit to my exact specification. that would be too good to be true. i guess cant hurt to measure and research though
 
 

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