Large gap around vinyl tub surround.
#1
01-10-14, 11:40 PM
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Large gap around vinyl tub surround.
I recently started remodeling my bathroom and installed a 3 piece tub surround and tub directly to the studs and put up all new Sheetrock. The problem is I have a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the shower surround and the Sheetrock. I realize now that I probably should have just butted the Sheetrock right up to the protruding portion of the tub surround but it's too late for that now. I think the gap is too wide to caulk but not sure. Any suggestions?
#2
01-10-14, 11:44 PM
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I overlapped the tub surround flange about halfway but did not completely butt it up to the lip of the surround.
#3
01-11-14, 04:06 AM
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At this point I would be picking out molding to trim the edge of the surround and conceal the gap.
#4
01-11-14, 04:10 AM
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What thickness sheetrock did you use?
Why would not be using moisture resist sheetrock in that wet area?
And yes way to big a gap.
First place it's going to fail and will look like poop with caulking that wide if it's left exposed.
May want to play around with the idea of a tile border.
Why would not be using moisture resist sheetrock in that wet area?
And yes way to big a gap.
First place it's going to fail and will look like poop with caulking that wide if it's left exposed.
May want to play around with the idea of a tile border.
#5
01-11-14, 04:36 AM
I've seen more than one vinyl surround bordered by tile. If you use molding, make sure it's plastic and not wood! IMO primer and latex enamel gives the drywall all the protection it needs from moisture.
#6
01-11-14, 03:57 PM
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It is 1/2" green rock, it's just already painted. I think I may have come up with a solution, I put in 1/2" foam backer rod in the crack and got some trim to bridge the gap then fill the void with caulk. Think it will turn out ok? 
#9
01-11-14, 04:35 PM
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If you wanted to fill in the gap by finishing the drywall, you will need to prefill that gap with an Easy Sand Durabond, and then once that's dry, flat tape the joint with paper tape and joint compound, bed the tape with an additional coat of Durabond, then float that out with a wider knife and regular joint compound, sand and apply an additional skim coat if needed. The resulting joint would then need a fine bead of a paintable bathroom sealant like Polyseamseal.
#10
01-11-14, 05:23 PM
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The foam trim you picked should work fine for many, many years. It can be attached with an instant type adhesive like Power Grab if you don't want any nail holes. Or, just nail it in place like traditional molding. If nailing be careful not to dent the trim or if using a nail gun turn down the power so you don't shoot through it.
