farm sink
#1
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farm sink
I'd like to retrofit an old farm sink into my countertop. I don't know if this is commonly done. The sink is from the 50's, cast iron porcelin. It is 54" long, 24" deep. It is a single sink with a splash board, double drainboards.
The sink was originally designed to fit atop its own steel cabinet.
There are no clips to hold it down. The belly of the sink would require a large (52") cutout for the sink to set on its rim.
Is this install even possible?
The sink was originally designed to fit atop its own steel cabinet.
There are no clips to hold it down. The belly of the sink would require a large (52") cutout for the sink to set on its rim.
Is this install even possible?
#2
Hey, I resemble that remark. I have that sink and it is as you describe just setting on top of the cabinet. Instead of a cut out for the bowl they just stopped the counter top an inch or so past the beginning of the drain board. In 40 years I've been here it hasn't moved and I can see no fasteners (and I just looked again). As near as I can figure it is held by its weight and caulk.
However if I were doing it I would probably do a cut out for the bowl. On the counter under the drain boards I fasten shims that touched the bottom of the drain board and use construction adhesive between the shims and drain board.
However if I were doing it I would probably do a cut out for the bowl. On the counter under the drain boards I fasten shims that touched the bottom of the drain board and use construction adhesive between the shims and drain board.
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The under the drainboards part of the sink actually protrude below the rim. So I'd have to have a full 52" long by 23" wide cut-out to set the sink on the outer perimeter.
#4
Interesting. On mine when the rim is touching the counter top there is an inch space between the bottom side of the drain board and the counter top. It will take a bit of taming but I'd end the primary top where the rim begins and begin a second one foot wide top lower then the main top for the drain boards to sit on. If you do that right and get the counter top snug that will help hold it from shinnying.
Crude representation:
Crude representation:

#6
It is probably very heavy to begin with and once the drain is hooked up it is not going anywhere. Seal the rim with a gook Kitchen and Bath caulk. I've lugged a couple of double bowl cast iron sink up flights of stairs before, they were very heavy.
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We just bought yet another double drainboard farm sink. This one is much lighter. I'd say it's enamel compared to the other porcelain sink.
Now this sink is different, the rim does protrude below the belly of the sink all around. Looks like all I have to do is remove my existing ss sink, and drop this one in. It will sit on the rim all around.
But again, there are no hold-down clamps. This sink also was designed to be installed in its own steel cabinet.
Any ideas on fastening it to the countertop?
Now this sink is different, the rim does protrude below the belly of the sink all around. Looks like all I have to do is remove my existing ss sink, and drop this one in. It will sit on the rim all around.
But again, there are no hold-down clamps. This sink also was designed to be installed in its own steel cabinet.
Any ideas on fastening it to the countertop?
#8
As I previously wrote:
.
On the counter under the drain boards I'd fasten shims that touched the bottom of the drain board and use construction adhesive between the shims and drain board.