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Does this vanity top fit the new vanity, or am I going crazy?

Does this vanity top fit the new vanity, or am I going crazy?


  #1  
Old 10-18-14, 02:42 PM
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Does this vanity top fit the new vanity, or am I going crazy?

Hi again DIY forums,

I bought this new vanity + vanity top, and they were sold together. I was about to caulk and mount the new top onto the vanity, but then I noticed that the top doesn't appear to be flush with the actual vanity. It seems to "hang' over the egde more than I expected

Here's the left side:


... the right side:


... and the front:


I expected the vanity to line up with the gray, unfinished part of the new top. But it only makes contact with the areas outlined in green. Is this a problem? Or is it sufficient enough for me to caulk and mount the vanity top? The vanity top's package says that it fits 30 in. x 21 in. vanities, and that's exactly the type that I'm trying to mount it onto.
 
  #2  
Old 10-18-14, 02:51 PM
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Similar issue and when I went back to the blue box where the wife picked these out I ask the same question. Should have known, they didn't have a clue. When mine goes on I plan to add a strip of wood where the top is above the vanity so the one piece double sink doesn't become two singles. I'll be watching to see what the pros say about not having full support.

Then I'll wait to see how you do .

Bud
 
  #3  
Old 10-18-14, 03:13 PM
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You will need some flat shims, which are kind of hard to find. You can use tongue depressors or similar flat wood.
Using hot melt glue, you want to shim up front, front sides, back corners and a few on the back edge.
Just stay away from shimming near the nubs that are currently keeping it from laying flat.
Also don't shim up more than necessary. Use a level to test fit shims and then glue down.

Once shims are in place. Put dots of silicone around perimeter of vanity top and set top down. Don't get carried away with silicone, it doesn't take much to secure top.

Side gaps can be caulked, it will be harder to caulk front because of the false front there.
If you assembled these, you know how to remove front and see if that makes caulking easier.
 
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Old 10-18-14, 03:30 PM
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The vanity top, cultured marble, is a poured product. They use a mold to form the basic shape and swirl color or sprinkle color to achieve a pattern. The bottom is actually the "top" side while the unit is being cast. Therefore slight differences and irregularities in the depth of the top are expected. That is why your top touches in some places and floats in others. When you caulk it in place, use a good adhesive type kitchen/bathroom caulk and squeeze it into the voids under the sink to take up the space and provide some support. Nothing I see is out of the ordinary.
 
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Old 10-18-14, 06:19 PM
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czizzi: Would this GE Waterproof Silicone be sufficient, or is there a better product to use?
 

Last edited by melon cat; 10-18-14 at 06:57 PM.
  #6  
Old 10-18-14, 06:57 PM
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PMHandyone:I'm having some trouble finding those flat shims you mentioned. Do they go buy any other name that'd help me in finding them? Are they just super-thin, rectangular pieces of wood or something?

Also, I'm having a really tough time visualizing what needs to be done. Are there any obvious examples that I could look up? Because I'm reading your instructions and I can't even figure out what you're illustrating.
 
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Old 10-18-14, 08:47 PM
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Need that over hang so water does not run down over the sides and rot it out.
Just use a fat bead of PHENOSEAL around the top of the cabinet to set the top into and wipe off the access.
Silicones just going to be a mess to try and wipe up.
It an adhesive and waterproof caulking in one and cleans up with water.
There is not need to shim the top.
 
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Old 10-19-14, 01:45 AM
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I can't even figure out what you're illustrating.
Just follow Joe's instructions directly above.
The top simply sits on top of vanity. I was trying to explain how to provide more support.
 
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Old 10-19-14, 04:16 AM
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Melon, in my case that gap above the edge of the vanity is about 1/2" and just caulking would not work. That is where the shims or strips of wood cut to the thickness needed come into play. From what I'm hearing I will keep my strips of wood just shy of flush with the current support points and allow the caulk to take up the remaining gap and account for any variations.

Does this sound similar to yours.

Bud
 
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Old 10-19-14, 06:29 AM
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DAP Products - Caulks and Sealants - DAP® KWIK SEAL PLUS® Premium Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Sealant with MICROBAN® Antimicrobial Product Protection

Get a small squeeze tube in clear format and follow above suggestions. The clear will make it easier to not make a mess. Big orange carries it.
 
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Old 10-19-14, 08:13 AM
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Attachment 40296

This is very simple.
The yellow marks in drawing above represent small shims placed at various points. You don't need to support the entire perimeter.
Shims can made from cut up popsicle sticks or whatever you have handy, just keep them from sticking out the sides.

As far as caulk:

All it takes is some dabs around top to hold it down. Preferably, the dabs will be at shim locations.

Putting a fat bead all around top will hold the top down, but this is not the proper way to do it. Once caulk cures, or gets old, the top won't come off. Especially adhesive caulk turns very hard.

Caulk should only be used to hide small gaps at front and sides after top is down.

This is the approved method by certified Corian Installers.
 
  #12  
Old 10-19-14, 05:37 PM
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czizzi- I'll be sure to pick up some of that stuff. Thanks.

Handyone- I can't thank you enough for taking the time to draw that visual. It all makes sense, now. Is there any need to waterproof shims? I'm just thinking of the possibility that water might seep beneath the edge and wet the shims.
 
 

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