Should I hang kitchen cabinets on a wall that doesn't reach the ceiling?
#1
02-27-15, 06:48 AM
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Should I hang kitchen cabinets on a wall that doesn't reach the ceiling?
A customer wants me to prep a wall in his kitchen to hang cabinets on. It is an L-shape kitchen and the wall is 84" tall. It is in a giant lodge-like room with really high vaulted ceilings. The wall is 13' long and on one end connects to an existing wall (forms a T) and on the other end makes a 90 degree turn. I'm worried about the weight of the uppers on the wall. I don't want the wall to slightly sag over time in towards the kitchen. Any thoughts?
#2
02-27-15, 06:54 AM
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A 90 degree turn on both ends of the wall is what will add your rigidity. Which section are you worried about? What is going on with base cabinets on the wall in question? The base cabinets will also give the wall a larger footprint and provide stability.
If you have a picture that would be great. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html
If you have a picture that would be great. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html
#3
02-27-15, 06:54 AM
Kitchen cabinets for the most part exert vertical pressure on the walls. With the returns on both ends (T and 90), the wall in all probability won't be affected. Is it a 2x4 or 2x6 wall? Can you post pictures of the wall from both ends showing the return walls as well as the top of the wall?
#4
02-27-15, 07:19 AM
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This is the only pic I have right now. The wall in the center with the air freshener is going to be removed and the wall on the far left with the pocket door will continue out in a straight line towards the right until it hits the wall with the pocket door on the right side of the pic. The two walls that form the 90 degree turn (far right in pic) will only be connected with about 10" of framed wall (the distance from the top of that pocket door to the top plate). Unless of course I move the pocket door down the wall.
#7
02-27-15, 09:22 AM
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If I understand, you want to remove wall 'A' in my picture.
This will leave wall 'B' supported only by top plate above pocket door.
I think it doesn't matter if wall B is supported by top plate or if it was a solid wall with no door. It needs supported to avoid lateral movement, and that's what wall A is for. Hope that makes sense.
A couple of options:
Bridge top of wall B to the other wall to the far right of picture, using 'C'
Where A and B currently intersect, run a 4 x 4 post all the way up to ceiling and secure it.
This will leave wall 'B' supported only by top plate above pocket door.
I think it doesn't matter if wall B is supported by top plate or if it was a solid wall with no door. It needs supported to avoid lateral movement, and that's what wall A is for. Hope that makes sense.
A couple of options:
Bridge top of wall B to the other wall to the far right of picture, using 'C'
Where A and B currently intersect, run a 4 x 4 post all the way up to ceiling and secure it.
#8
02-27-15, 07:24 PM
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C,A, and B1 are going away. D will continue over to make a 90 degree corner with B2. At that corner, only the space above the pocket door opening will connect the two walls. The new cabinets will be on walls E and D.
#11
02-27-15, 07:36 PM
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The pocket door on B2 will remain? Shouldn't make a difference as long as a cabinet is not hung in the area of the pocket door itself as there is reduced support in that area. But your top plates should tie that wall into the main wall at the top of B2 and give your wall enough support.
#12
02-27-15, 07:55 PM
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This is different than what I thought but I think we all agree. 'D' will be a solid wall. Even though it's only connected to B2 by top plates, that will be enough to provide lateral support.
I don't think it's necessary, but if you're concerned you could use some Simpson nail plates where top plates intersect.
I don't think it's necessary, but if you're concerned you could use some Simpson nail plates where top plates intersect.
#13
02-28-15, 06:41 PM
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