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Extending a counter to allow for seating without replacing entire countertop

Extending a counter to allow for seating without replacing entire countertop


  #1  
Old 03-31-15, 03:17 PM
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Extending a counter to allow for seating without replacing entire countertop

Hello, I am considering a change to my kitchen and want to get some opinions. My kitchen currently has a peninsula that would be perfect to have seating for my three kids along the back of the peninsula, if that makes any sense. I have seen a similar house in my neighborhood that had such an upgrade and I really liked it. However, I have no desire to replace my countertops at this time. So here's my thought:

My counters are laminate, and I know the brand and the color pattern. I was considering having a piece made, the exact length of the existing counter, and 18" wide with the same style rounded edge as my existing countertop. My existing counter has about a 2" overhang. I was thinking, I could take the new piece and mount it flush up underneath the existing overhang, so it would be like a 16" extension with a small step down from the existing counter. I hope that makes sense and I'm explaining it properly.

I wonder if this will look nice or awkward? I planned to use some of those super heavy duty countertop support brackets into the back of the cabinet, but I'm afraid the back of the cabinet isn't quite beefy enough to support the new piece. I might be able to add some wooden supports inside the cabinet to beef up the area that the brackets would screw into. I was thinking I could also screw the new counter into the bottom of the old counter (into that two inch overhang) to keep it snugged up nicely against the existing counter.

I visualize it to kinda come out looking like a flip-up section, like a table leaf, but it will not be level with the existing counter, it will be a step down. And of course it will not flip down.

Does anyone have opinions on this? Will it look stupid? I really don't want or need to replace my countertops as they are in great shape and I still like them enough to not want to scrap them. Any tips or advise on this job would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
  #2  
Old 03-31-15, 05:43 PM
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Welcome to the forums! It makes perfectly good sense. However there are some cautions. Is there a cooktop on the island? If so, code will require a buffer between the cooktop and the eating surface. Would it be possible for you to post pictures of what you have so we can see what you see? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html
 
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Old 03-31-15, 06:30 PM
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This is just for thought.

I would consider cutting off the back overhang, flush with cabinet backs.
Build a pony wall up against cabinet backs. The wall should be 41" high.
The pony wall will be the base for bar area. New counter top will overhang pony wall about 1-3/4" on the inside and about 11-3/4" on the outside. This outside overhang can be supported with regular corbels versus the heavy duty brackets designed for granite and such.

If there are upper cabinets above the peninsula, and you don't want counter to go higher:
I would still build a pony wall same as above, only shorter. It's better to step a counter surface up than lower it.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 07:08 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

There is no cooktop. It's just a peninsula with nothing but a nice big counter on it. It's one leg of the L where we do most prep, and it would be great to have our three kids sitting right there at that counter so we can just plop their plates down in front of them while they sit there facing us.

I will most definitely take some pictures and it will make more sense.

Handyone, I think I follow... so your pony wall would be the height of the existing counter, snug up against the cabinet and newly trimmed existing counter? Then put the new piece of counter on top of the pony wall, hanging a little bit over the existing counter and then extending out on the other side over where you'd sit? I think I'm following. If that's what you mean, why is it better to step it up that way instead of stepping down?
 
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Old 03-31-15, 07:15 PM
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Here's a very old picture taken during the build, but it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about I think.

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Old 03-31-15, 07:19 PM
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Here's another look Name:  P1010011.jpg
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Old 03-31-15, 07:48 PM
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My idea doesn't make a whole lot of sense now that I've seen the pictures. I was saying build something like what's behind the sink. You already have the raised area. Basically I was saying you could build what you already have.

You can add the extension below the counter like you want, but being honest I think it would look awkward.

Let's wait for some more input....

What is the opening width at the left of picture? From end of pony wall to???

Maybe the drop leaf is a good idea. The leaf would not necessarily have to lift up flush with existing counter. You could have your extension, below counter level, and drop when not in use.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 08:33 PM
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Here's another old picture of what is to the left of the pony wall. It's currently where my dining room table sits, but I'm going to move the dining room table back into the morning room where that bar is in the picture (bar is long gone) but I'd still like to have a little spot there off the counter where the kids can sit and eat.

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Old 03-31-15, 08:36 PM
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I actually liked the drop leaf idea, but the wife doesn't think we will ever drop it down so no real reason to make it do so. Plus, with it dropped down when not in use, we'd still have to put the chairs somewhere so really it would more likely stay up all the time.

I suppose I could just get a bigger piece than what's currently on that pony wall behind the sink and then support it from underneath the overhang, but I'm afraid that's too high up for my little kids to climb up to.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 08:51 PM
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That's real nice and you have plenty of room at left of pony wall.
I say build your extension the way you planned.
- Tuck in under existing overhang
- Beef up the inside upper rear of peninsula cabinets in order to install your supports

Beefing up or adding lumber to the inside upper rear may be challenging. Don't interfere with any drawer glide boots. Add 3/4 stock below drawer guide height (use hot melt glue). This will allow brackets to be secured at their lower ends. There should be enough thickness at top of cabinets to screw brackets in securely.
 
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Old 03-31-15, 10:37 PM
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Any recommendations on brackets?
 
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Old 04-01-15, 04:21 AM
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Now, with the pictures, I recommend not to use the L for eating. It will take up too much space in the dining area and impede walk through. Add the chairs and it will really be crowded. I would prefer using the existing pony wall with a countertop extension at a lower level and korbels. It could be built from cabinet grade plywood, banded with matching dimension lumber and brackets could be made in the same manner from the same material if you chose not to buy more expensive korbels.
 
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Old 04-01-15, 05:38 AM
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That table in the picture will no longer be there. There is 8'9" from where I want to put the extension to the wall. I think that's plenty of room to walk thru to the morning room even with the 18" extension and chairs, no?
 
 

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