How to fix hole in tile/drywall backsplash
#1
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How to fix hole in tile/drywall backsplash
Hi-
So- I was recently doing a kitchen renovation and wanted a white subway tile back splash. The tile guy suggested a design in the middle of the white subway tile and it looks absolutely horrible. He won't come back to fix it and its such a small job most guys want too much money or won't come out so i figured i would do it myself. Also the electrician needed to move an outlet for code reasons and had to make a large hole in the tile and dry wall. Pics are below
1) how do i patch up that dry wall?
2) how do i get the tile/grout out without messing up the other tiles?
3) is there an easy diy thread on putting the white tiles back into the blue tiles spot?


So- I was recently doing a kitchen renovation and wanted a white subway tile back splash. The tile guy suggested a design in the middle of the white subway tile and it looks absolutely horrible. He won't come back to fix it and its such a small job most guys want too much money or won't come out so i figured i would do it myself. Also the electrician needed to move an outlet for code reasons and had to make a large hole in the tile and dry wall. Pics are below
1) how do i patch up that dry wall?
2) how do i get the tile/grout out without messing up the other tiles?
3) is there an easy diy thread on putting the white tiles back into the blue tiles spot?



#2
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Welcome to the forums!
It shouldn't a big deal to cut/score the grout and chisel out the green tiles. Probably the best way to replace the drywall without having to remove more tiles would be to glue a piece of wood [longer than the hole] to the backside of the drywall so you can attach the drywall to it once the adhesive is cured.
It shouldn't a big deal to cut/score the grout and chisel out the green tiles. Probably the best way to replace the drywall without having to remove more tiles would be to glue a piece of wood [longer than the hole] to the backside of the drywall so you can attach the drywall to it once the adhesive is cured.
#3
I'm sorry, the electrician in an a$$, and that goes for any other trade that just halls off, knocks holes in walls, collects a paycheck and leaves crap like this for the owner to sift out. Really burns me when this happens. I've repaired too many bonehead things like this in the past. The rest of the tile that you don't like is on you, you should have approved the design before he started.
Yes, you need something to act as a backer to be able to glue some drywall to so you can reattach the tile. Hard to really explain but, take a piece of wood, longer than the hole but just wide enough to fit inside. You will need something like PL8X and apply it to the wood and pull it back flush to the back of the good drywall. Then jury rig something to hold it tight until the glue dries. Then return with drywall and then tile. To remove additional tile, use a center punch to crack he tile and then work it out in little pieces. Or, do like the electrician and blow it out with a hammer. By then you will have had plenty of practice repairing.
Yes, you need something to act as a backer to be able to glue some drywall to so you can reattach the tile. Hard to really explain but, take a piece of wood, longer than the hole but just wide enough to fit inside. You will need something like PL8X and apply it to the wood and pull it back flush to the back of the good drywall. Then jury rig something to hold it tight until the glue dries. Then return with drywall and then tile. To remove additional tile, use a center punch to crack he tile and then work it out in little pieces. Or, do like the electrician and blow it out with a hammer. By then you will have had plenty of practice repairing.
#4
The tile guy suggested a design in the middle of the white subway tile and it looks absolutely horrible.
Getting the old tile out shouldn't be too hard but you're going to have to replace like nine tiles there with the old electrical box in the middle of the field. I'd clear the area I illustrated. Fix the sheetrock and then replace the nine.
The black lines look like a stud. The blue lines illustrate pieces of wood you'd need to glue to the back of the existing sheetrock in order to attach the new sheetrock. There may be a stud near the old receptacle you could use.
